Work Lights on the CHEAP

[SethO]

I just installed this cheap work light. Total cost was about $25.00 the major part was the light set frm WalMart for $17.50, but it came with a switch and a fuse. The mounting was done with a length of 2X4 that I had laying around.

I did not want to drill into the ROPS, so the wood was clamped onto the ROPS. The lights can be rotated to face backwards. I mounted the switch above the seat on the ROPS.

SethO

 

[SethO]

A close up of one of the lights

 

[SethO]

The first picture did not post, here it is.

 

[Mrwurm]

I have drilled several small holes in my ROPS. I have heard many TBN members exclaim that they won't drill there ROPS for safety concerns. This makes me think... Most people are more than willing to drill holes in their floor joists for water pipes, gas pipes, electrical, cable, and phone lines. I regularly see floor joists like look like swiss cheese. Any thoughts ?

 

[SethO]

I think there are a number of issues

Most importantly in the event of a rollover, the ROPS may no longer the strong enough.

Secondly, the manufacturer may deny responsibility in the event of failure of the structure after an accident, claiming that the intergrity of the ROPS has been compromised.

Finally, and also related to the other point is that we do not know what amount of redundancy has been designed into the ROPS. In this era of cost cutting, I will not be suprised if it made just strong enough. Any drilling will reduce that strength and may result in failure.


SethO

 

[WVBill]

There are very clear specifications in engineering manuals about the size, location and number of holes permissible in floor joists. If folowed, drilling holes in floor joists is safe. Same applies to ROPS.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Yes, Bill. But where are those manuals that tell us where, what size and how many holes are acceptable in an ROPS?

 

[Nuru]

Yes that is what stopped me from drilling any holes in the ROPS the warning from JD about not drilling any additional holes. They essentially said that if I did that, then they are not responsible for a failure as I would be modifying the ROPS from stock, sooooooo...etc. Clamping is okay for me.

 

[rbarker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I just installed this cheap work light. Total cost was about $25.00 the major part was the light set frm WalMart for $17.50, but it came with a switch and a fuse. )</font>

I used the exact same lights. They work great so far. I have a cab so they just bolted into pre-drilled holes on the roof lip.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( won't drill there ROPS for safety concerns. This makes me think... Most people are more than willing to drill holes in their floor joists )</font>

The main point, is theat there are multiple floor joists to carry the total load. Any single joist isn't doing 'all the work'.

You only have one set of rops on your tractor... I wouldn't be gambling on that... no backup.

Soundguy

 

[JTC]

I like to start by saying, if someone isn't comfortable with modifying a structural component, they should not do it. I've seen this debate a few times on TBN so I've decided to chime in with my $0.02. The following is my opinion only and should not be considered advice.

I on the other hand feel very comfortable with doing these kinds of things. One could calculate the net effect of drilling holes for lights in a ROPS, I think this is overkill. A little common sense (or Engineering insight) will go a long way here. Think of where the stresses and forces are on the ROPS in a roll over accident. The top of the structure will contact the ground acting as a lever as the momentum of the tractor twists the base of the ROPS. The forces are concentrated and increase lower on the structure. Lights are typically mounted higher on a ROPS.

Another way to think of it is to take strip metal , say 2" wide by 1/8" thick and 24" long. Drill a 1/4" Dia. centered on the strip about 6" from one end. Clamp the other end in a vice and push the free end until the strip bends. I would bet that the strip will bend where it is clamped in the vice, not at the hole. Any lever that has a constant cross-section through its entire length is over designed by virtue of the fact that the forces increase at the fixed point of the lever. In the real world, it is more economical in most cases to use a constant cross-section structural member then to taper away from the base, but its easy to find examples where this is done: larger FEL and BH arms, some bridge trusses...

Most people get into trouble with floor joists when they notch them instead of cutting holes in the center. A notch can severely reduce the load bearing capacity where an equivelant sized hole centered in the joist may not significantly reduce its structural integrity.

Of course, any manufacture is going to warn of the dire consequences of modifying their product, I not a lawyer but my understanding is the modification would need to cause the failure for the manufacturer to be relieved of liablity. In other words: You roll your tractor, ROPS bends or breaks where you drilled holes -> your fault. You roll your tractor, ROPS bends or breaks at base -> their fault (not caused by your modification).

Jim

 

[Trev]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have drilled several small holes in my ROPS. I have heard many TBN members exclaim that they won't drill there ROPS for safety concerns. This makes me think... Most people are more than willing to drill holes in their floor joists for water pipes, gas pipes, electrical, cable, and phone lines. I regularly see floor joists like look like swiss cheese. Any thoughts ? )</font>

Well, yeah.. I wouldn't do this myself. When I read about the injuries and deaths resulting from roll-overs, I will do *nothing* to reduce any of the safety aspects of my tractor.

My solution was simple and works well... I just wired in a couple cigarette lighters under the seat, and use magnetic lights that stick to the top of the ROPS. Want a rotating emergency light to alert traffic? Just plug it in and stick it up there. Need some extra flood lights? Plug 'em in and stick 'em up there. And so on. It's easy to route the wires up to the lights when plugging them in, and I've yet to have any problems of any kind except once.. I had a light on top, lowered the ROPS, raised the 3pt hitch, and crushed the light. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif oopsey!

I have the factory dual rear lights, which work great, and only add the other lights on rare occassions.. like the emergency light when driving on the road. Seems clean and simple, flexible, and doesn't risk any reduction in safety.

Wish the factory would put some holes in the ROPS, approved by their engineers... but lacking that I don't find it a big problem to work around it without drilling any holes of my own.

Just my own $0.03 with inflation.

Bob

 

[Soundguy]

Anything I've ever needed to attatch to the rops, I have used band clamps.. ( like on radiator hoses ).

They work great.. are as permanent as you want them to be.

Soundguy

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Those are sure good. I like large wire ties, myself. After a long time in the sun they may not be as good as the hose clamps, however.