work lights

[nealfris]

Hi all. I have a Kubota L3000DT. This tractor was built bare bones. I would like to put 2 front/ 2 back work lights on ROPS. I found a 10 amp fuse with thin yellow wire off back of fuse box, manual said it's work light circuit. My first question is, where's the wire go? Thought it was same yellow wire to back running lights. When I removed the fuse, all lights still work. I don't want to tear covering off the wires. I've search threads that have said wire goes under seat, I looked but couldn't find.
Could someone give me a schematic as to a proper layout, wire size, watt lights (I'm thinking 35x4) fuse size, relay size, etc. Should I have two switches or one.
Also where is everyone buying electrical parts online?

Thanks

Neal

 

[nealfris]

Looked more thoroughly under rear fenders because of another thread suggested spare Kubota wires in that location. Mine has no such spares, maybe because tractor is '2003' I found two relays under the hood. None have the yellow wire. I can not find the yellow wire coming out of the harness anywhere??? Why would they bury a wire in the harness? Do I just cut yellow wire and start wiring?

 

[moship]

1) I don't have the same tractor, but on mine there was an electrical connector for the "work lights" near the right hand side of the seat towards the rear. Kubota's wires always seem to be terminated with a connector versus bare wire to make it easier to install optional equipment. Other wire connections I needed, such as the mid pto were visible and outside the plastic wire loom. Perhaps call a dealer and ask. Some shops seem to be willing to help with simple questions.

2) How much current does your alternator put out? Hopefully it is in the 30 to 40 amp range. If it is the smaller 15 amp model you may want to rethink the use of conventional lights and go with LED to lower the current draw.

3) I used some cheap 55w halogen fog lights to illuminate the front and rear (4 lights total).

 

[Qapla]

1)... How much current does your alternator put out? Hopefully it is in the 30 to 40 amp range. If it is the smaller 15 amp model you may want to rethink the use of conventional lights and go with LED to lower the current draw...

Before you invest in LED lights, check the output of the alternator. If it is only 15 amps, look into replacing it with a higher output alternator.

The reason for this is - according to your info, you are in the Marshfield, MA / Arlington, VT area. If I am not mistaken, it snows there. LED lights do not give off any heat. When using the tractor to remove snow (or otherwise working in snow) the LED lights do NOT melt the snow from the lights, causing them to get dimmer and dimmer as you work.

Conventional lights, like halogen, give off heat and therefore keep themselves clean of ice and snow.

This was discussed by some who already tried the LED lights and decided to go back to a light that melts the ice.

 

[nealfris]

My alternator is 40 amp. I just got done finding that out. I also did some searching for lights. Tractor supply had some nice work lights for 20 bucks. My weakness is wiring circuit. How to go from fuse box, relay,switch, through to lights? The lights are 55w ea., 220w total. I'm thinking two switches.

 

[nealfris]

Thanks guys.
Quapla, snow not an issue, I plow with my truck. Tractor has the luxury of being in while its snowing, however I do use it in the rain so I will use waterproof switch.
Moship, sounds like you are using the same lights as I would like to use. Could you talk me through your install? Kubota has 10 amp fuse in box. Found nothing in the back, no free wires. yellow wire from fuse goes into harness and disappears.

Thanks

 

[robs660]

You can put 4 of them on one switch if you want to. I did the same thing on my B20. I ran from the battery with in an inline fuse to a small hobby box to make all the connections and a lighted switch on the rear inside fender. I do have to replace my alternator because I have a 15 amp and it kills the battery. I will take and add pics for you. The TSC lights are pretty good. I have dug trenches at night and plowed for hours without any problem. My dilemma is depending on the cost of the new alternator it might be cheaper to replace the lights and deal with a little snow build up

 

[moship]

Nealfris,

You might want to reconsider running through the stock wiring circuit consider the current draw will be approximately 18 amps and it sounds like it was only designed for 10 amps.

I will share what I did for both front and rear lights hanging from the sunshade.
A) Fused 12 gauge from starter to switches (Made splitter wire to supply both switches off the supply wire)
B) Used two switches (front and rear)
C) Did not use relays as the switches were rated for 20 or 30 amps each. Plus I was just lazy and did not feel like wiring relays into the circuit. Switches were from Radio Shack and had a rubber boot to provide some degree of splash protection. Switches are housed on a home made bracket with a splash shield around it.
D) Used 14 gauge wire to the lights.

Glad to hear you have the larger alternator.

Have fun with your light project. I do not bother with the factory lights as they are obstructed by either the FEL or snow blower.

Qapla,

Did not give any thought to the snow build up issue. My lights are protected under the sunshade. LED are a good alternative and countermeasures to the snow build up can be applied if desired. In any case, good point!

 

[/pine]

Have you been to Messick's site and downloaded the electrical system PDF for your L3000DT ?...it may not show a blow up of the harness but it may give you an insight...

 

[nealfris]

/Pine, thanks. I did check out Messick's site. Drilled down to my model and they wanted to email part of the manual. I have not received any email. Am I missing something? It would be great to simply download a schematic.