work lights

[/pine]

What you get are PDF files that are taken from the original parts manuals...they show ALL the parts connections etc with numbers...they are very nice references to have on hand...

Not sure why you have not gotten the file...you might check your spam filter or junk folder etc...

 

[moship]

neilfris,

I was able to download it without issue. Send me a private message with email and I'll send the file out.

It does not show a specific work light wire, but all the wires for the rear lights, flashing lights, etc... are under the fenders. The right hand side (as seated on tractor) seems more promising.

 

[moship]

nealfris,

Here is the switch I used. Prefered something more waterproof, but gave up driving around looking for something. This switch came from RadioShack and was ~$4.

It is also rated at 40amps.

SPST 12VDC 40A On-Off Toggle Switch - RadioShack.com

Below you will find the wiring from Messick's and a picture of my switches and lights.

 

[Jay4200]

My alternator is 40 amp. I just got done finding that out. I also did some searching for lights. Tractor supply had some nice work lights for 20 bucks. My weakness is wiring circuit. How to go from fuse box, relay,switch, through to lights? The lights are 55w ea., 220w total. I'm thinking two switches.

You'll have to add another circuit for 4 lights - you can only run 2 on a 10A circuit. One side of the fuse block is switched battery voltage (12 rail). The other side is the protected circuit - that's where the yellow wire comes out. You want to run that wire to a switch, then to the light. The switched wire is hot, ground is chassis.

For the other two lights, get another 10A fuse and make another circuit in a blank slot that is wired the same way. I would guess that the hot side of the fuse block is hardwired, so you should just have to run the wire on the protected side after you stuff in a fuse.

JayC

 

[Scrambler82]

I would like to put 2 front/ 2 back work lights on ROPS. I found a 10 amp fuse with thin yellow wire off back of fuse box, manual said it's work light circuit. My first question is, where's the wire go? Thought it was same yellow wire to back running lights. When I removed the fuse, all lights still work. I don't want to tear covering off the wires. I've search threads that have said wire goes under seat, I looked but couldn't find.
Could someone give me a schematic as to a proper layout, wire size, watt lights (I'm thinking 35x4) fuse size, relay size, etc. Should I have two switches or one.
Also where is everyone buying electrical parts online?

Thanks

Neal

sorry I do not have a schematics but this is how I would do it:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/188724-aux-lighting-hookup.html

Run all power fused from the battery and run grounds back to the battery.
Always set up lighting in sets of two, one relay and one sw for each set.
4 Light x 55 watts each = 220 watts / 12 volts = 18 amps or 9 amps per set of two.
Two switches, as suggested in last post, is a good thing but one switch to activate all four lights will work as long as you run two relays. The wire from the switch can go to pin 85 or 86 on both relays.
Always remember to fuse the main power wire from the battery and the power to the switch(es).
In your setup 20 amp fuses and 12 gauge wire is a minimum from battery to pin 30 on the relay and from 87 to the first light and jumper to the second.
Standard automotive type relays will work; waterproof components might work out also if you work in foul weather all the time.
Switch or switches require 18 wire (you might use 20 ga) and a 2 amp fuse for the power side and from the switch to pin 85 or 86 on the relay.
Use the same gauge wire as the power feed on the ground side of everything.

USe good quality automotive wire not the hardware store wire unless it is specified for automotive use and is very flexible.

The indicator light is not really necessary in your application but if you like lights like I do then it works.

Sorry got carried away.

 

[boggen]

on the 555c new holland loader/backhoe. it had wiring for front and rear work lights and relays, but were missing a couple switchs in the consul. and one of the relays were bad.

so went to tractor supply / farm king / double checked a couple other stores.

found a kit, that had 2 lights, small fuse box holder to hold a 15amp fuse, and a water proof switch and i think 15 to 20 feet of wire. for like 25 to 30 bucks.

i just ran 2 wires form battery into the cab, put the fuse in (that came with the 2 light kit) and then the switch. and then ran wires up and out to the 2 new lights. and some plastic zip ties used to hold wires up and out of the way in a few spots. i let the switch kinda dangle inside the cab for the lights. not the best. but i was afraid to drill the counsel with fear of hitting other wires.

for me it was easier to do it this way. vs trying to wiggle out 2 wires out of a fuse box / relay that were already there for work lights. just not enough room let alone length of wire to cut and splice into.

 

[freddyr]

You can put 4 of them on one switch if you want to. I did the same thing on my B20. I ran from the battery with in an inline fuse to a small hobby box to make all the connections and a lighted switch on the rear inside fender. I do have to replace my alternator because I have a 15 amp and it kills the battery. I will take and add pics for you. The TSC lights are pretty good. I have dug trenches at night and plowed for hours without any problem. My dilemma is depending on the cost of the new alternator it might be cheaper to replace the lights and deal with a little snow build up

I didnt think the lights from TSC were bright enough. I got some Peterson lights on ebay, Northerntool has some to. look for good bulbs

 

[Scrambler82]

If two 55 Watt lights draw 9 amps then a 10 amp circuit will not be enough.
The 10 amp circuit is for two 35 watt light that draw approximately 6 amps.
The 10 amp outlet circuit IMHO is for a 12 v drop light with a max of a 100 w bulb or an iPod charger…

Added 3/2/11: Add a separate circuit, easy/fast and by far safer.
Only problem is how much extra output does the alternator have or how long will it last, putting out at the top of its output level, before it collapses.