Work lights

dltimmons · Mar 24, 2004

My tractor is a 2003, 4310, E PowerReverser.

rockyridgefarm · Mar 24, 2004

One other thing, I thought about mounting the lights to a bar that can be removed easily. That way I can mount them to the top or bottom of the rops bar 

One minor detail to look out for: your head. If you mount lights on the bottem of the ROPS make sure they won't end up stuck in yer skull, should you end up upside down...

This is especially true on Deere equipment, as Deere owners obviously have a reason to protect their skulls.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

dmccarty · Mar 24, 2004

cadblaster,

I put some work lights on the TOP of my ROPS. I used an aluminum square tube, I think it was 1/2 inch, to mount the
lights. I ran the wire through holes I drilled in the bar that
matched some holes that are in my ROPS. The wire then ran
to the tractor wires at the bottom of the ROPS.

This worked pretty good. But I have a lot of low trees and
branches. I work the tractor in the woods frequently as well
and over time the lights got banged up to the point they no
longer worked so I took them off the tractor. They where
a safety issue with my environment.

If you don't have trees/branches that would catch the lights
what I did worked real well. The lights where up high so they
missed my head and the lights lit up at a better angle in front
of the tractor. I have missed not having them up there from
time to time. But usually when its dark I stop working. A few
times I just had to use the headlights.... 8-(

Later,
Dan McCarty

zuiko · Mar 24, 2004

The only reason I would really want them switched invidually is I'm not sure what kind of power that alternator puts out... esp if I am doing something where it is at lower RPMs most of the time.

I have 3 switch positions, hazard (only hazard lights), work (work and headlights), and road (hazard and headlights).

755inNY · Mar 24, 2004

I mounted my work lights on a removable bar as well. I only need the work lights in the winter for snow removal. In the summer I can finish my chores before dark and the lights would be in the way for mowing around trees.

I mounted the lights to a short piece of 2x4 which I painted green. The light bar is secured to the top of the ROPS with a couple of tie wraps. I route the wires from the light bar down the outside of the ROPS securing it in a couple of places with tie wraps. The wires plug into a bullet plug type connection located at the rear of the tractor. Not an elegant solution but it works and, as I said, only used during the winter months.

I tried mounting the lights below the ROPS but they were just above eye level and were blinding when looking backwards.

jeff

BWa · Mar 25, 2004

If I could get my hands on my wife's Digital Camara I will post a picture of how I solved my extra light problem ,,,, In that I don't plan to put a canopy on my 990 I have the mounting holes with threads (12m) ....my first mounts was just two 90* angled steel brackets ..looked nice painted up JD green and bolted in place , ran the wires down the hollow ROP and up to the factory wire harness install butt splices at the break point and continued wiring back to the fuse block . Ran a jumper from the head light fuse to a new fuse and wired , also ran a ground back just because I could .... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
This means the lights will turn off with the key and are on the same switch as the factory front head lights .......
Well the first time out bush hoggin' took care of my error in thinking that just "L" brackets will work .... Solution was to go get a 4"x6" steel tube at the local steel shop , for $5.00 I got a scrap piece out of the scrap box long enough to make two sets of "Protectors" ...4 holes , one for the wiring , and two matching the bolt pattern on the ROP and one on top for mounting the lights in side the box, paint it green , wire the lights and good to go ,,,, Have not found a tree yet to take them off /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Hopefully I can get pictures ..
Bill g.

cadblaster · Mar 25, 2004

It sounds like many of you are on the same page. I figured having the work lights removeable so they don't get damaged during mowing would be important. I'd much rather mount them to the top of the ROPS so they wouldn't be in my face. Plus they provide better lighting coverage. Lastly adding an additional circuit seems necessary to handle the extra current draw.

rockyridgefarm · Mar 25, 2004

Lastly adding an additional circuit seems necessary to handle the extra current draw 

That makes sense, but for one thing. JJC said that using the purple and black wires was OK. Basicly, what he says is worth about 10 times what the rest of us say. Especially me. can you say Super Tech.

cadblaster · Mar 26, 2004

( ..JJC said that using the purple and black wires was OK...)

This may be the case for the 4000 series, but I have a 2210. I haven't done enough investigation to find out if this is also true for the 2210. I will definatly look in to it further. I'm hoping I will have a little time this weekend to look in to it. no guarantees though, I still have a bunch of erosion repair to do.

Mark_in_NH · Mar 27, 2004

( I have a feeling if I was running the PTO the power drain would put me in the negative. )

This statement has me Very confused. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Is there something about the design of a John Deere That I don't understand or am not aware of.
Other then the PTO safety switch, I am not aware of Any tractrs pto system requiring 12 volt power to operate. It's all mechanical, no electric involved.