Work Lights

[clenhart]

I have a Kubota L2800 with a hard canopy. I used 2 Petersen 3" X 5" lights from Wal-Mart in a Flood pattern mounted on the rear of the canopy for rear work lights and 2 3" x 5" lights with a trapezoid pattern mounted on the front edge of the canopy to supplement the headlights. All are 55 watt halogen and are controlled by 2 toggle switches mounted in the daqsh panel with rubber marine type covers to keep the moisture out. The switches operate 2 relays using key switched power with the main feed directly from the battery. I am very happy with the performance of the setup.

I believe the Floods from Wal-Mart were $12 each and the others were $10 each from Auto-Zone. I had the switches and relays...

 

[gladehound]

OK - I'm a wiring idiot!!

Tonight I made some changes that made a ton of difference. I now love my light set-up. Not saying they are the best lights. But they really work for me now.

1st - My wiring was more to blame for my dissatisfaction than the lights. I know because when I disconnected one light the others got much brighter. I rewired with 14 gauge. I don't know the gauge of what I used the first time but it was small and felt warm with the lights on.

2nd - the tractor wiring that is labled for a work light is also too small and can't handle 3x55 watt lights. (After seeing what the walmart lights can do when getting full power, I'm sure they are 55 watts not 35 as I previously suspected.) I now have 2x55 watt lights on this circut, yet even these would perform better if the tractor had heavier gauge wiring. Something I may change in the future.

I now have the rear light runing off the high beam circut for the headlights and I disconnect the high beams since I don't use these anyway. My front lights are twice as bright as they were. My rear light is 4x as bright as it was before. With only 3 cheap lights I have plently of light to work at night.

I did one more thing to improve the function of the lights. I mounted the fronts on the curve of the ROPS so that they are tilted about 30 degrees sideways. This makes the focus beams of the two lights suround the front of the tractor. Hard to describe but it works great. Great light in front and to the side.

I have to revise my previous rating of the lights. I would buy them again but may try something else that someone else rates highly. Espectially if someone recommends a light with an extremely even light spread.

 

[SkunkWerX]

I went with the ultra-luxurious Harbor Freight 55w driving lights!
On Sale for $7.99 and comes with wiring and switch!
Still in the package , but it's on my project list before Daylight Savings time ends this fall.

Used this cheapo kind of light on my Ford 1210 for many years, worked fine unless poked out by tree limbs.
On the Ford I wired right off of the battery with an in-line fuse.
I am going to try to go through the factory fuse panel on the BX, if possible.

 

[resaca]

Hey SkunkWerx,
Could you give me the part # of your Harbor Freight lights? I've been looking for some but have not found what I want yet.

Thanks,
David

 

[SkunkWerX]

Hey SkunkWerx,
Could you give me the part # of your Harbor Freight lights? I've been looking for some but have not found what I want yet.

Thanks,
David

David,
I just checked HF's on-line catalog and don't see them. i got them at one of their stores. They are the standard 55w driving/fog lights. Rectangular.
Most AutoZones and AdvanceAutos would also carry this style.
In fact, i would imagine Walmart would have them.

 

[kennyd]

OK - I'm a wiring idiot!!

Tonight I made some changes that made a ton of difference. I now love my light set-up. Not saying they are the best lights. But they really work for me now.

1st - My wiring was more to blame for my dissatisfaction than the lights. I know because when I disconnected one light the others got much brighter. I rewired with 14 gauge. I don't know the gauge of what I used the first time but it was small and felt warm with the lights on.

2nd - the tractor wiring that is labled for a work light is also too small and can't handle 3x55 watt lights. (After seeing what the walmart lights can do when getting full power, I'm sure they are 55 watts not 35 as I previously suspected.) I now have 2x55 watt lights on this circut, yet even these would perform better if the tractor had heavier gauge wiring. Something I may change in the future.

I now have the rear light runing off the high beam circut for the headlights and I disconnect the high beams since I don't use these anyway. My front lights are twice as bright as they were. My rear light is 4x as bright as it was before. With only 3 cheap lights I have plently of light to work at night.

I did one more thing to improve the function of the lights. I mounted the fronts on the curve of the ROPS so that they are tilted about 30 degrees sideways. This makes the focus beams of the two lights suround the front of the tractor. Hard to describe but it works great. Great light in front and to the side.

I have to revise my previous rating of the lights. I would buy them again but may try something else that someone else rates highly. Espectially if someone recommends a light with an extremely even light spread.

Just a note:
It's always best to add a relay and make a new circuit for high amperage accessories like lights. The factory wiring harness's are not designed for multiple lights, usually just one.
I'd sure hate to see you burn your machine to the ground!

 

[SkunkWerX]

Just a note:
It's always best to add a relay and make a new circuit for high amperage accessories like lights. The factory wiring harness's are not designed for multiple lights, usually just one.
I'd sure hate to see you burn your machine to the ground!

I second what KennyD sez. (2) 55w lights are gonna draw roughly 9 amps.
That draw is gonna needs it's own circuit.

On my Ford 1210 I had 2 facing front, 2 facing back, and wired off of the battery with a 20 amp fuse and some very thick wire.

 

[gladehound]

Good comments. I should have just started with a 20A fuse, some 10 gauge wire and a switch for each light. If I install a new fuse and line to run the front facing work lights, where is the best place to get power from. Battery, starter, other?

 

[gladehound]

Just want to add that the work light circuit on the LB1914 is dedicated to the work light and has a 10A fuse. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that it was therefore designed for up to a 10A draw? Is this not the case? The wire does look small and I've been assuming it is 20 gauge but I don't actually know the gauge.

Even if the work light circuit is designed for a 10A draw, I'm calculating about a 1.5 volt drop from the fuse to the lights. So performace would be better if I rewired it.

The rear light should be OK because I basically replaced 2x35 watt head lamps with one 55 Watt rear flood. So there is a reduction in draw on that circuit compared to the factory set-up.

 

[resaca]

Thanks, SkunkWerx,
I've got to pick up some parts at autozone or advancedautoparts so I'll check out what they have.

Thanks again,
David