Worklight Wiring

[VictorW]

Doug, Just give Wallace's place a call. 570-689-7494 They'll be happy to take your cc number over the phone and ship out the part. I get my parts from him that way for my Kioti. If it's in stock, and he seems to always have what I need, you should have it in a few days. I'm in NW Pennsylvania.
Have fun snowplowing. By this time last year, I already had seat time and the rear light does make it nicer. Just a thought, but some of the Kioti guys have mounted their lights on the ROPS. Some face forward for extra light when the fel blocks the headlights and other lights to face the rear. If you check the Kioti forum, you should find some posts with pictures of their designs.

 

[wallace]

Okay guys I am going to post this up here...
Someone emailed me today and I forwarded to my parts counter on prices and I'm sure my parts people gave you the expensive kit..
Just so there is no discreptinces...
There is a work light that mounts right above the SMV sign and then there is a work light kit that allows you to mount the work light using 2 bolts from the roll bar fender bracket.
Don't ask me why but that's what Kioti offers it.
Just the work light is around 30 bucks.
The work light kit is around 55 bucks.

 

[archerm3]

Okay guys I am going to post this up here...
Someone emailed me today and I forwarded to my parts counter on prices and I'm sure my parts people gave you the expensive kit..
Just so there is no discreptinces...
There is a work light that mounts right above the SMV sign and then there is a work light kit that allows you to mount the work light using 2 bolts from the roll bar fender bracket.
Don't ask me why but that's what Kioti offers it.
Just the work light is around 30 bucks.
The work light kit is around 55 bucks.

Wow that's pricey compared to the 19 bucks I spent at my dealer. I posted their phone number in T600's thread.

 

[wallace]

I agree, when did you buy yours?
Kioti was priced like that last year.

 

[archerm3]

I agree, when did you buy yours?
Kioti was priced like that last year.

At my dealer about 2 weeks ago.

The other guy that posted the pictures of installation on the old worklight thread in this BC section, got his from Michigan Steel I think? I assumed it was a Kioti product? He had a Kioti (CT120 equivalent). They quoted me about the same, 20 bucks.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/bobcat-tractors/148726-work-light-ct230.html#post1715137

You guys might already be aware of this, but the Kioti factory rear work light with the bracket (actually two, depending on how you want to mount it to the ROPS) is ~$20 from Michigan Iron & Equipment. Works quite well and includes a switch mounted to the light, and proper pigtail to match the factory wiring of course. I'll try to remember to snap a picture.

I don't have the P/N but Bob @ Michigan Iron can get you setup 517-625-4590, just tell him which model equivalent Kioti tractor you have.

I finally snapped a couple of pictures, see attached. Couldn't get a picture of the wiring because the tractor was backed up to the wall and I was running late for work!

Josh

 

[MichiganIron]

Rick is right, they were priced like that last year. Unfortunately, they aren't priced like that any more. There was a pretty significant price increase on the KIOTI CK20 work lights this year.

The pigtail on the CK20 worklight may need to be modified if you use it on other models. The worklight harmess ends vary from model to model on the tractors.

 

[archerm3]

Rick is right, they were priced like that last year. Unfortunately, they aren't priced like that any more. There was a pretty significant price increase on the KIOTI CK20 work lights this year.

The pigtail on the CK20 worklight may need to be modified if you use it on other models. The worklight harmess ends vary from model to model on the tractors.

Well ain't that a kick in the pants.

 

[Rudevette]

I have been waiting to post a reply to this topic because I wanted pics of my setup but when I went to take pics my flash wouldn't work. I will try again tommorrow.

I recently did the work light addition to my ct235 and can add a little advice here.

1. The factory light location which is right next to the tool box is too low for a light to be mounted if you want your light to shine on a tiller or snowblower. I tested mine in that location with both attachments and it is just too low and is blocked by too much of the implement. I higher light mounting location like on the roll bar is very beneficial because it gets that light shining down from above the implement a lot better.

2. The rear work light wiring is tied onto the same circuit as the rear tail lights. That is a 10 amp circuit. That means that if we use our old forumla of amps=watts/volts then if our tail lights are running about 20 watts each (which I don't know but it should be close) then a third or so of our available amperage is taken by tail lights. So to be on the safe side I would say to stick with a 65 watt (maybe 75 watt max) work light on the rear. I could figure out exactly what wattage we can run on the rear but haven't taken the time. Either way, only one light can be attached to that rear circuit if you run a halogen fixture. LED or HID are a different discussion.

3. The rear work light wiring is powered on whenever the key is on. In my opinion you need a separate switch on this circuit because there is really no point in running that light unless you need it.

4. For the front work lights I installed a relay to a switch in the dash. The switch is located in the recess by the key. I ran a fuse holder and a positive and negative off of the battery to power the lights. The fuse panel has a spare circuit worked into it. You need to remove the fuse panel, then carefully remove the fuse holder connectors from the back of the fuse panel. The top three all need to come out as one unit since they are one piece jumpered together to a keyed source. You can power your switch off of this spare circuit. Just solder your wire onto this spare spot once you get it out of the circuit block, then run to the switch, then to the relay. This way your front work lights are able to handle whatever wattage you want, and your fuse panel won't burn out because of over amperage.


I will take some pics of my front work light brackets that are bolted onto the loader frame and of my rear work light bracket. I blew snow tonight in pitch black darkness and it is literally a night and day difference. I have absolutely 0 lack of light to blow snow or do loader work at night. If anybody has any further questions about this feel free to email me or whatever. I would be happy to help talk you through your work light project.

I hope to get pics up tommorrow night.

-Justin

 

[archerm3]

I have been waiting to post a reply to this topic because I wanted pics of my setup but when I went to take pics my flash wouldn't work. I will try again tommorrow.

I recently did the work light addition to my ct235 and can add a little advice here.

1. The factory light location which is right next to the tool box is too low for a light to be mounted if you want your light to shine on a tiller or snowblower. I tested mine in that location with both attachments and it is just too low and is blocked by too much of the implement. I higher light mounting location like on the roll bar is very beneficial because it gets that light shining down from above the implement a lot better.

2. The rear work light wiring is tied onto the same circuit as the rear tail lights. That is a 10 amp circuit. That means that if we use our old forumla of amps=watts/volts then if our tail lights are running about 20 watts each (which I don't know but it should be close) then a third or so of our available amperage is taken by tail lights. So to be on the safe side I would say to stick with a 65 watt (maybe 75 watt max) work light on the rear. I could figure out exactly what wattage we can run on the rear but haven't taken the time. Either way, only one light can be attached to that rear circuit if you run a halogen fixture. LED or HID are a different discussion.

3. The rear work light wiring is powered on whenever the key is on. In my opinion you need a separate switch on this circuit because there is really no point in running that light unless you need it.

4. For the front work lights I installed a relay to a switch in the dash. The switch is located in the recess by the key. I ran a fuse holder and a positive and negative off of the battery to power the lights. The fuse panel has a spare circuit worked into it. You need to remove the fuse panel, then carefully remove the fuse holder connectors from the back of the fuse panel. The top three all need to come out as one unit since they are one piece jumpered together to a keyed source. You can power your switch off of this spare circuit. Just solder your wire onto this spare spot once you get it out of the circuit block, then run to the switch, then to the relay. This way your front work lights are able to handle whatever wattage you want, and your fuse panel won't burn out because of over amperage.


I will take some pics of my front work light brackets that are bolted onto the loader frame and of my rear work light bracket. I blew snow tonight in pitch black darkness and it is literally a night and day difference. I have absolutely 0 lack of light to blow snow or do loader work at night. If anybody has any further questions about this feel free to email me or whatever. I would be happy to help talk you through your work light project.

I hope to get pics up tommorrow night.

-Justin

Sounds like good work!

 

[DKXJ]

I had the bobcat rear utility light installed on my tractor when I ordered it. It does have a switch build into the light and only works when the key is on. As far as I can tell, its a good quality light and only cost 45 installed, which means its probably only 20-25 bucks for the light.

I would say, if you want a light that has a switch already built into it, you should consider getting the bobcat light. Seems to be better quality than the local TSC store.