worklights on 4510

[ktm250rider]

Ive finally broken down and purchased most of the components to add worklights to my 4510. Looks like Im gonna follow some of the others here (kennyd, bloomingtonmike) and use a 30 amp breaker off of the starter to a 30 amp relay to 2 switches on the right fender switch cluster. I would like to have 2, 55w facing forward and 1 (or 2) facing rear.
I noticed that I have an empty receptical in the fuse box for a relay. I cant find any information on it on JDParts or my manual. Could I wire off of this socket with my 30A relay?
I do have a nice bracket above my starter where I could mount the breaker and the relay which may be easier since I wouldnt have to mess around with the rats nest of wires behind the panel.

 

[kennyd]

I would not mess with the fuse panel except for getting you power feed for the relay. The socket you saw probably does not have contact in it anyway...

 

[ktm250rider]

Thats what I figured. I got a really nice spot above the starter to mount everything. If that wasnt there, it would be a different story.
NOw, what wire do I use for the switched power? Gonna have to get my VOM out and do some probing.

 

[bigballer]

Is one 30A relay sufficient to run 4 55W lights at the same time? I want 2 front facing and 2 rear facing and would run 2 switches, one for each "set"..

Thanks!

 

[kennyd]

Is one 30A relay sufficient to run 4 55W lights at the same time? I want 2 front facing and 2 rear facing and would run 2 switches, one for each "set"..

Thanks!

Yes, one 30 amp relay is fine.

Each 55w light will draw just under 4 amps a piece at 14 volts. So with all four lights on the max draw will be 16 amps. What you need to worry about more is the size of your alternator.

 

[bigballer]

i talked to 2 different dealers today an both said my L3400 alternator (40A) could handle the load of 4 55W lights. One said I could bump up the "work light" fuse to 20A and be good, the other said don't even bother with the panel because the wiring is too small. He said to come off the starter wire (or battery if i wanted to run a longer wire) and then just wire the lights to a switch, he said a relay may or may not be needed depending on the switch, apparently there are some switches that have built-in relays.. i think i would rather play it safe and use the relay.. i'm going to try to get this done this weekend.. darkness is coming..

 

[kennyd]

First, the first dealer who told you to "bump up the fuse" is STUPID! Will he fix your tractor when it melts down? Unbelievably BAD advice as I think you already figured out.

Your 40amp alternator is perfect for the job!

There are no switches with built in relays, but there are 20 amp rated switches that will handle the load, but you will still want to add the relay, and power it from the fuse box so that when the key is OFF the relay is de-energized.

Let me know if I can help...

Kenny

 

[bigballer]

thanks for the offer kenny, i am planning on the relay and NOT going into the existing fuse for the work light. i still need to figure out the connection from the switch back to the fuse panel though.. everything else is clear in my mind but that.. would i run this to the worklight fuse or some other?

 

[kennyd]

thanks for the offer kenny, i am planning on the relay and NOT going into the existing fuse for the work light. i still need to figure out the connection from the switch back to the fuse panel though.. everything else is clear in my mind but that.. would i run this to the worklight fuse or some other?

Here is something I clipped from another post when I was helping another member:

Pin 30 = Power in from the breaker/fuse - 10 guage wire
Pin 85 = To Ground
Pin 86 = To ignition switch - On position
Pin 87 = To light switch on fender

I would not use the worklight fuse at all, just find a fuse in the panel that is HOT only when the key is ON and run a small wire rom there the the # 86 lug on the relay.

Clear as mud

Here is the POST where I detailed my install...

 

[bigballer]

ok getting clearer - was trying to come up with a diagram but didn't see where you called out the wire from the lights, pardon my ignorance.. i did a quick search and came up with this link... the pinouts on the relay are wired a bit differently than you called out but figured they could be swapped. How does this compare to what you did with the actual light wires?

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglite.jpg

 

[ktm250rider]

I found a loose or spare wire with a bullet connector on mine that was hot with the switch on. I think it may be for an accessory of some sort. Or it could be the worklight circut. I cant tell from any of the wireing diragrams I have. It was right behind my fuse panel when I took the shroud off to run my wiring. I used that to run to my switched relay connection.

I followed kennyds' wiring. I dont have lights or my switch yet but I do have power to my wire going to my switch location with the ignition on and no power with it off. So I believe it will work. The diagram you have looks like that will allow power to the lights with the ignition off. I could be wrong though.

 

[kennyd]

BB,
Using the diagram at the link you posted will not give seperate control of the front and rear lights.

So, from the #87 lug, go to at least a 10 amp rated switch with #14 wire, then to a pair of lights. Do the same for the other pair.

I wrote " Pin 87 = To light switch on fender" , I assumed you would know to go from the switch to the lights, sorry for confusing you.


P.S. I think you owe KTM250 a six-pack for hi-jacking his thread!

 

[kennyd]

I found a loose or spare wire with a bullet connector on mine that was hot with the switch on. I think it may be for an accessory of some sort. Or it could be the worklight circut. I cant tell from any of the wireing diragrams I have. It was right behind my fuse panel when I took the shroud off to run my wiring. I used that to run to my switched relay connection.

I followed kennyds' wiring. I dont have lights or my switch yet but I do have power to my wire going to my switch location with the ignition on and no power with it off. So I believe it will work. The diagram you have looks like that will allow power to the lights with the ignition off. I could be wrong though.

Sounds like your off to a good start ,remember that we LOVE pictures

 

[bigballer]

yeah i just realized i was hijacking the thread - sorry ktm, i do owe you a sixpack!! ok so i get it now.. i do appreciate your patience! i'll be posting some pics when i get mine underway...

 

[SkunkWerX]

OK guys, the sun is setting earlier and earlier every day, I have [3] 55w driving lights on the shelf in my shop, you are really motivating me to get this done on mine, as well.

Kenny, I am thinking about using an automotive circuit breaker instead of a standard fuse, they come in all sizes.

Mounting them cleanly on the rops is more my concern. I've got to make some decent looking brackets. Anyone seen any good pics for rops mounted brackets???

[no hijack intended]

 

[ktm250rider]

Yeah, mounting is the next step for me as well. Actually, that and buying the lights too. I was thinking of using a piece of angle iron welded or mounted with u-bolts to the ROPS. Eithor way, the lights will be mounted to the underside of the top cross bar.

Ill get pics of my wireing. I just need to figure out how to get them small enough to fit on here.

No hijack yet. We are still talking about worklights. However, Ill still take a sixer of Killians please, and thankyou.

 

[kennyd]

OK guys, the sun is setting earlier and earlier every day, I have [3] 55w driving lights on the shelf in my shop, you are really motivating me to get this done on mine, as well.

Kenny, I am thinking about using an automotive circuit breaker instead of a standard fuse, they come in all sizes.

Mounting them cleanly on the rops is more my concern. I've got to make some decent looking brackets. Anyone seen any good pics for rops mounted brackets???

[no hijack intended]

SW, I used a circuit breaker, they are cool to use...


Mounting cleanly IS a problem, and I am a stickler for fit/finish details...That is why I decided to drill the wholes in my ROPS, because I could not get the "clean" looks any other way.

I am not trying to convince either of you the drilling is the answer for you, but it was for me. There is plenty of discussion here about drilling/welding the ROPS, most will say NOT to do it. But I stand behind my decision.

 

[kennyd]

Ill get pics of my wireing. I just need to figure out how to get them small enough to fit on here.

Take a look at this from MicroSoft, It works pretty well and is very simple to use.

Also, Have you seen THIS great thread on pic posting?

 

[ktm250rider]

Ill check those out in a bit. Just got back from the dealer. They didnt have a switch that would fit without ordering one. Didnt want to try a $22 part out of the blue. I would imagine that any of the auxillary switches that control the loadmatch or motionmatch would work. Any ideas?

 

[kennyd]

KTM,

Check out THIS post, it's got pics and a part # for some cool switches you can order from JD. You can still get all the other work done while your waiting for them.