worklights on 4510

[ktm250rider]

Thats a pisser. I had that site as reference. When I checked jdparts for the switch I couldnt find it in the sections that I was looking. Just used the main page search and it came right up. Guess a couple of frozen mudslides helped out tonight.

 

[SkunkWerX]

SW, I used a circuit breaker, they are cool to use...


Mounting cleanly IS a problem, and I am a stickler for fit/finish details...That is why I decided to drill the wholes in my ROPS, because I could not get the "clean" looks any other way.

I am not trying to convince either of you the drilling is the answer for you, but it was for me. There is plenty of discussion here about drilling/welding the ROPS, most will say NOT to do it. But I stand behind my decision.

KD, I gotcha. I did drill holes in my ROPS on my old Ford 1210 to fish wires. I actually tac-welded a bar, just underneath the TOP of the Rops, to use as light brackets. The fit -n- finish still wasn't all that spectacular.

I know it's best not to alter the ROPs in any way, if I can help it, not that I feel a couple of holes are going to cause it to catastrophically fail...

I would like something that doesn't look like a muffler clamp on the Rops, or a bolt-on after-thought, if I can help it.

I may have to do a temporary Clamp-on and keep wondering about a permanent, decent looking set-up.

 

[corelokt308win]

OK, here's what I did. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the ignition switch only hot when on lead, to an aftermarket, small fuse panel. I wired in two relays, purched from "surpluscenter.com" one for each pair of lights. I ran the factory light switch to thes, one high beam, one low. These now power my front and backs. I also ran a power lead to the rear for my winch and sprayer controls, an extra to the front, and my horn off of this box. Works great.

 

[kennyd]

OK, here's what I did. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the ignition switch only hot when on lead, to an aftermarket, small fuse panel. I wired in two relays, purched from "surpluscenter.com" one for each pair of lights. I ran the factory light switch to thes, one high beam, one low. These now power my front and backs. I also ran a power lead to the rear for my winch and sprayer controls, an extra to the front, and my horn off of this box. Works great.

So your pulling all that load through the fuse panel and the factory wiring? Not a great plan in my opinion.

 

[corelokt308win]

The tractor already had an old glass fuse type panel, so used it's heavy lead. Any 10-12 gauge wire lead can handle the load. Been using it for 2 -3 years now, working like a charm. At one point I had 6 lights, 2 of them halogen, the fourway flashers, and the power leads.

 

[Ed_C]

Does anyone have pics of REAR worklights on just the foldable ROPS?

Tradeoff between seeing or getting the tractor in the garage?

 

[kennyd]

Does anyone have pics of REAR worklights on just the foldable ROPS?

Tradeoff between seeing or getting the tractor in the garage?

In post #9 in this thread there is a link to my install. I have 4 lights on my ROPS, but I have a 8' garage door...

 

[Ed_C]

thanks-- nice work too!

 

[N80]

Here is a potentially clean way to mount lights without drilling ROPS or using u-bolts. Haven't tried them so don't know how well they hold.

www.MagnaLight.com Spotlights and Flashlights - MM2 Magnetic Base with 100 Pounds of Magnetic Gripping Power

 

[bigballer]

i am attaching a diagram i made for the wiring, please let me know if anything in here is incorrrect.