Workmaster 40 starting/electrical issues

[brs077]

Good thing I'm bald, because I'd have ripped out all my hair due to this thing. Tractor is 2013 workmaster 40 with about 400h on it. For 8 years it has been absolutely reliable, other than a power draw from somewhere that made me keep it on a charger when parked. This year it's like a totally different machine.

It's got a new battery, and brand new starter due to earlier issues in the year, though I'm not sold it needed either. I had left it parked away from a charger for a while and when I went to start it it clicked like a dead battery, so I wheeled a jumper/charger to it and left it charging overnight, fired right up the next day.
I moved it to the garage and parked it, and now it's dead dead. Battery is holding 12.8v, same voltage at the starter. When I turn the key on the hour meter and digital tach sometimes come on, glow plugs light up and everything goes dead when I turn the key to start it, other times the gauges flash for a split second then nothing. I've checked fuses all good, 12v to the ignition switch. I've chased the wires and don't see any signs of wear, etc. I'm thinking something with a relay somewhere or something, but I have no idea where to go next.


Fyi: reason I say I doubt the starter was bad is because when I bench tested the old one after the new one was in, if it had a propellor it would have taken off. Perhaps the solenoid, but I didn't care much since the new one seemed to work, albeit an expensive repair.

Any and all advice or hints are appreciated!

 

[dlctcg]

Your machine is much new than our NH, but a couple of ideas...

- I would test the starter switch - voltage passes through it for all the above..

- I would check to see if you are getting any voltage at the Starter Solenoid when you turn the key to START... If you see voltage when you turn the key you the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue.

- I would test you battery cables - These were a common problem on older NH machines where they would corrode internally even if they look fine. The corrosion would cause resistance in the cable so you will have voltage (like the 12.8V you are seeing) but they will not supply the required Amperage.

 

[Jackfr]

Check all grounds for loose/dirty connections

 

[brs077]

Thanks for the comments so far. I've tested the battery, battery to starter and ground to battery cables, all check out. I get 12.7v (down .1v after sitting overnight, there's a draw I've known about for years now) at the battery and at the starter, but I get 4.8v at the ignition switch (keyed power). Admitting I haven't tested voltage at the battery side of the ignition switch yet, but I'm going to guess the switch is faulty. Interesting to me, the dealership that installed the electronics for cab heat and snowblower chute rotations drilled the "key on" 12v power of the ignition, which is uh... Odd. I'll test more and see if I can keep hunting.

Things I can think to test: incoming voltage between the starter and ignition switch, jumping the ignition switch, and a starter toggle to act like bumping the starter on the key... Any other thoughts?

 

[Doughknob]

So i had a tractor that was hard starting for years. Kept thinking it was all the things mentioned by everyone so far, including what u checked OP. Then i finally took off electrical tape to the wire bundle going to the starter solenoid.

Walla! There was a connector under there where the spade pin was just barely touching the socket. Just a simple loose connector caused weak starting all those years!

 

[brs077]

Do you mean the solenoid relay wire? I looked at that, it's wonky for sure, but the connection is solid, and there's 0 ohm resistance between the tractor side and the blade on the solenoid. The gauges not lighting up (or intermittently lighting up) is what makes me think it's the switch though. Bypassing it temporarily (effectively hotwiring it) should be the proof I need.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

If it burns headlights bright but wont start, bad connection or cable end.

 

[brs077]

So I put it all back together, hit the key, got a quick turn of the starter then gauges and everything died. I jumped the solenoid by direct wiring the starter lug , it spun freely so I hit the key and it fired right up. It can't be a dead spot in the starter, it is brand new, plus the old starter did the same thing... Maybe the flywheel?

Guess it's time to upgrade anyway

 

[dlctcg]

I jumped the solenoid by direct wiring the starter lug , it spun freely so I hit the key and it fired right up

So, did you direct wire the solenoid lug... or the starter lug? Just curious...

 

[MiserableOldFart]

Did you check all the safety switches? On my TC26DA I had a problem and found one of the sensors (forget which one, but think for PTO) wasn't being fully engaged and a small adjustment there fixed iit. Whenever it works for a solenoid jump and not from the seat I suspect one of them. The PTO one is particularly finicky because it's designed to be run when the seat isn't occupied, but not allow a start when it's not fully in the "not engaged" mode. The TC26 had a button, I think that worked off the lever. My Workmaster 40 is a different one from yours and I don't have a clue how even mine works yet..