Workshop Wall and Ceiling Finishing

[mudcat]

OSB is a much better product today than it was 15 years ago.
OSB on the walls and metal on the ceiling would be the way I would go.

 

[RonMar]

I was intrigued by the idea of metal on the ceiling untill I priced it out this evening.

At my local HD:
1/2" drywall: .21 per SQ/FT.
Sheetmetal roofing: .80 per SQ/FT or 4X the cost of drywall. I am not so intrigued anymore

 

[shimp]

I was intrigued by the idea of metal on the ceiling untill I priced it out this evening.

At my local HD:
1/2" drywall: .21 per SQ/FT.
Sheetmetal roofing: .80 per SQ/FT or 4X the cost of drywall. I am not so intrigued anymore

if u finish the drywall-factor in the labor to hang, mud n tape, and then how will begin to 'fade'/'yellow' .

i vote metal

 

[MacLawn]

A few years ago, I built a 24'x32' block shop/office, and used OSB on the ceilings, primed it and painted it white. I really like it. And, I even hang stuff from the ceiling! I used to frame and hang drywall for a living, and like it too, but to me, OSB is great in a shop for its strength and being able to hang stuff from.

I screwed mine to the ceiling joists; I always like using screws more than nails... even with a nail gun.

 

[RonMar]

if u finish the drywall-factor in the labor to hang, mud n tape, and then how will begin to 'fade'/'yellow' .

i vote metal

The metal made a few issues easier, such as the access hatches as I will store some stuff up there as I do now.

The tape finish and mud won't be that fancy, it is a shop/garage afterall. Add in spraying on 2 coats of paint to the ceiling is not much more considering I already have to spray the walls. In my opinion, I don't think the added finish cost for ceiling drywall comes close enough to the 4X cost of the metal over drywall to justify it's use, at least not for me. Now if I could find the metal cheaper...

 

[EdC]

Ron

Instead of pricing the metal at the HD or other big box store see if there is a local small company that can provide it. I bought several sheets at a place called RSP (Rolled Steel Products; I think) in Spokane and they were good people to work with. There is a choice of about 12 different colors and they cut to the exact length I needed so there was a lot less waste. Can't remember the exact price but it was between 1/2 and 2/3ds of what Lowes wanted for the exact same product.

As far as OSB is concerned; is there a way to make it fireproof?

 

[RonMar]

I hadn't looked anywhere else yet, but I will as metal makes a few items easier if I can get the cost per SQ/FT down a bit. I have a little less than 24' to span so two 12' lengths(common length) will span it with only an inch or so overlap so I don't really need any special lengths cut. If I can find it for less, that would be great, but out here on the Olympic Peninsula, since we are not along the road to somewhere else, HD pretty much beats everyone else out on their bulk shipping costs. I am not optomistic about finding it less expensive anyplace else out here.

 

[dknarnd]

For those putting OSB on the ceiling what is the joist space you are applying it to? On 24" centers will you get any sag?

 

[MacLawn]

For those putting OSB on the ceiling what is the joist space you are applying it to? On 24" centers will you get any sag?

I put my joists 24" center, no sag after almost 16 years... looks and works great. (I am in Columbia County too! GA...)

 

[keving]

For those putting OSB on the ceiling what is the joist space you are applying it to? On 24" centers will you get any sag?

Mine is on 24" centers and no sag. I wouldn't go below the 7/16" thick stuff and I would screw it in with some of those coated deck screws.

 

[53gravely]

I'd vote for Sheetrock--It's fire proof. If you ever get into welding or anythng with sparks you won't regret the peace of mind

 

[EddieWalker]

I can't say this for sure anymore, but it used to be that sheet rock had to be on in two layers to qualify as a fire barrier for code. It's not something I see anymore in new homes, but it was very common in older homes.

For those of you welding next to your walls, why not put metal up there and wood in the rest of the building? I do all my welding out in the middle of my shop in front of the roll up door. The main reason is I hate the smell of metal melting with the welding rods.

Eddie

 

[dbdartman]

I love the smell of molten metal in the morning. It smells like... production!

Seriously though, Eddie has the right idea. If you have a dedicated welding area, metal would make the best wall covering, & everywhere else could be the cheap wall of your choice. If, however, your welding is done at 4 feet or more away from the wall, I see no need for special considerations. About the only thing I'd do, however, is keep the OSB or drywall 1/4" off the floor & fill the gap with silicone. Ever try to weld something with silicone on it? Take my word for it, it can't be done, even with a TiG torch at well over 100 amps (2200-2500+ degrees F). A little splatter from a MiG or stick wouldn't even make that stuff smoke! Slag from an O-A torch may be an issue, but I'd hope one would take that into account in ANY use. Slag from a hand grinder won't normally be an issue with OSB walls, slag from a chop saw would, but again it would be a problem with most any wall (the shop I used to work in was cinder block & the wall behind the chop saw was total rust).

I was going to drywall my garage (about 28X36 or so, 10' tall walls), but now I'll have to price out 7/16" OSB. I certainly wasn't looking forward to doing the taping & mud!