Calculate the surface speed of a 24" disc, you will be surprised at the feet per minute it is turning at the any particular rpm. My stump grinder uses a similar sized disc and the disc is really turning, and it is only run at pto speeds thru a 1:1 gearbox (540rpm). My blade tips measured 28" diameter, so also consider that. The way I figure it, a belt driven unit wouldn't be much harder than a direct one. Pillow block bearings for a jack shaft and taperloc sheaves on the jackshaft are standard bolt together parts. Using the wheel motors I have along with the hub that is mounted on it, and you have a five bolt pattern to bolt a sheave to so don't have to worry about the tapered shaft. Plus it also gives you a set of brake shoes to stop the spinning cutter in case you ever need to. I can't think of a reason to want to put brakes on one, but I can tell you that unless I drop my cutter wheel to the ground, the flywheel effect it has will keep it spinning quite a while. Brakes would make a great safety feature.
I am going to keep following this post and end up building a stump grinder to go on the end of the Turner boom mower arm. Might be interesting, but heck, I don't use the stump grinder I have now, so maybe that isn't such a good idea.
What is the attachment point of the PT look like? A tractor has a 3pt, which is pretty standard, but for some reason I keep thinking that the place to hook up a stumpgrinder would be on a flat plate on the front end loader arms.
You do remember the post about my trencher/stump grinder, don't you?
David from jax