Would you spend the money to run synthetic oil in equipment that rarely sees winter u

[def38]

the only time you don't want to use synthetics are during the engine break-in period. synthetics reduce wear so much that it would take a lot longer to break-in the engine.

Many new car manufacturers factory fill their new engines with synthetic engine oil. Modern engines require little if any break in these days. Tires, brakes and other wear components are more in need of a break in period than the engine. Some new car owners change the oil at early intervals in order to catch and discard engine metals that come off parts during early miles. Oil filters catch and trap these metals, grit, dirt and wear particles that are supposedly contaminating engine oil at early miles. Finally, some add special high zoot engine oil additives to improve engine performance and reduce wear at the early miles...all unnecessary. Modern engine oils do everything necessary to protect the engine from the first start. Follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations. More info available at BITOG. Look at the UOAs where particle counts are included in the analysis results.

 

[PILOON]

Synthetic oil producers like to flaunt the long times/hours between oil changes.
My take is that they need to justify the higher costs.
In my case everything I own never gets many hours of usage so I simply use Dyno oils and do annual changes.
eg: tractor does 40 hrs =/- on snow duties.
chain saws probably 10 hrs ea.
car 6000K/ yr
leaf blower probably 4-5 hrs per annum.
So I figure that I'm many $$'s ahead with plain old dyno lubs, shucks filters cost me more!

 

[wheelbuilder]

There are some engine designs that are more prone to oil problems that may be prevented by synthetic oil.
I personally haven't had an engine fail due to the oil I used. For a long time I ran conventional oil everywhere, but I do use synthetic in applications that see temperature extremes, both hot and cold. I try to stick to oil sales and rebates to make the price more equal.

 

[Tractorable]

I did a lot of research into synthetic oils and brands and discovered that most brands of synthetic oils are made by the same few companies (Warren Distribution being one), just with different labels and slightly different additive packages.

I buy the cheapest synthetic oil I can, Walmart SuperTech 0w20, and OEM Toyota filters, for my 2016 Toyota Avalon and change it every 10,000 miles per the owners manual. I just received a report from Blackstone Labs showing that everything looks fantastic on a oil sample taken with an 11,123 mile oil change interval. They said I could even go further between oil changes if I wanted to.

As long as an oil meets the specs of your engine, go with it. No need to spend extra on a label when the stuff inside the bottle is all the same.

To answer the OP’s question, I would not spend extra on synthetic oil unless the owners manual calls for it.

 

[RickB]

For me, no I would not use synthetic in a machine that sits still in winter AND has low hours of use that will indicate an oil change based more on the calendar than the hour meter. Synthetics have the advantage of extended drain intervals to mitigate the cost. Drain intervals based on months or years in time rather than hours of use negate that advantage. Have you ever had an engine failure attributed to the use of conventional engine oil of the correct type and viscosity?
Oil choices are personal and emotional. What works for me may not for you.

 

[zzvyb6]

I buy most of my oils at estate sales. The people there have no idea what its value is, they just want the house and garage cleared out. Buyers at these sales rarely change or even know how to change their own oil

If I see a case, a gallon or a few quarts of Mobil1 at a sale for 1 or 2 dollars, I buy it and into the machines it goes. Same with JD Hy-Guard hydraulic oil. The shelf in my shed is 'overflowing' with synthetic oil. I even use it in my windmills.

BTW: my newer GM cars and truck have crank shaft rev counters and that metric is used to produce the "% Oil Life Remaining" message on the Vehicle Information Display. Sometimes I go well over 12,000 miles before a change. I don't burn or leak oil, so that's what runs my schedule.

I'm using it in my Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix). The 4 cylinder 1.8l motor is famous for laying down at 100,000+ miles. My Vibe is going on 250,000 miles and still gets 33+ mpg with a/c and 75+ mph daily highway driving.

So, cost issue is and easy one or me. When Terri took her XTS to the dealer for an oil change, they put in synthetic. Same thing about crankshaft rev counter based change interval. It's only been needed to be done once since she bought it.

 

[def38]

I did a lot of research into synthetic oils and brands and discovered that most brands of synthetic oils are made by the same few companies (Warren Distribution being one), just with different labels and slightly different additive packages.

I buy the cheapest synthetic oil I can, Walmart SuperTech 0w20, and OEM Toyota filters, for my 2016 Toyota Avalon and change it every 10,000 miles per the owners manual. I just received a report from Blackstone Labs showing that everything looks fantastic on a oil sample taken with an 11,123 mile oil change interval. They said I could even go further between oil changes if I wanted to.

As long as an oil meets the specs of your engine, go with it. No need to spend extra on a label when the stuff inside the bottle is all the same.

To answer the OP’s question, I would not spend extra on synthetic oil unless the owners manual calls for it.

The Supertech brand oil is very good oil, just right for your OCIs and application. I use the same. If you visit BITOG, you'll see good lab reports for this oil.

 

[def38]

Remember, oils, synthetic or not, do more than lubricate. The oils cools, cleans, resists corrosion, reduces friction and provides protection in the event of loss or reduced lubrication (ZDDP). Synthetics generally have more robust additive packages and stay in grade longer and perform better under extended OCIs, high shear, high load, resist acid formation longer (TBN) and temperature extremes (NOACK score).

BITOG has many reports, comments and UOAs that can help you choose the right oil for your application.

I use synthetics especially in high engine temperature applications.

My BMW motorcycle engine is air/oil cooled (lots of heat in and around the exhaust valves) and uses Mobil1. It is 17 years old and runs like new. I know of several BMW owners who have 300,000+ miles on their BMW boxer engines, never having had to do engine repairs.

I use Mobil1 in the B&S powered riding mower. The engine is air cooled and the oil runs hot under load mowing tall grass here at the ranch.

The RAV4 uses Supertech 5w-20 Synthetic in the 4 cylinder engine. The car is new (3000 miles) and will stay that way for decades. Last car was 18 years old when traded for the RAV4 (Ford Windstar with 3.6 L V6 engine). It used Mobil1 5w-30 oil all its life and was in like new condition.

There are some engine designs that tend to sludge their oil, especially engines with overhead cam and variable valve timing designs. These engine benefit from synthetics with better additives for combating sludge and varnish.

 

[def38]

Have you ever had an engine failure attributed to the use of conventional engine oil of the correct type and viscosity?

Lost one cylinder on Triumph motorcycle (650CC vertical twin) in St. Louis, MO in summer heat riding from AZ to Chicago. Top compression ring broke and damaged the piston due to a loss of lubrication from heat, breakdown of oil viscosity. Synthetic engine oil would likely have provided lubrication with no engine failure (conjecture on my part).

 

[def38]

For me, no I would not use synthetic in a machine that sits still in winter AND has low hours of use that will indicate an oil change based more on the calendar than the hour meter. Synthetics have the advantage of extended drain intervals to mitigate the cost. Drain intervals based on months or years in time rather than hours of use negate that advantage. Have you ever had an engine failure attributed to the use of conventional engine oil of the correct type and viscosity?
Oil choices are personal and emotional. What works for me may not for you.

You might be better using a synthetic with better corrosion inhibitors in a cold climate where condensation can produce engine oil acids. Most synthetics have higher TBNs equating to extended corrosion protection.