Wow do I have a lot of questions (MF50E)

Redlands Okie · Jul 26, 2017

You might as well get a service workshop repair manual on the way. Often time these can be download from the web. If not it may take a bit of time to get one from the dealer. They will have the detailed info and diagrams in them to help you figure out parts and numbers and how everything fits together. Might be pretty handy if you need to replace or adjust brakes or other repairs on the tractor.
It will also help you find your hydraulic fill and check caps. How the gauges are wired in etc. Kind of like a really detailed Haines or Chelton repair book for your tractor.
The owners operator manual is nice and gives some info on what to check and how to use items but usually has little info for repairs etc.

p.s. If your tractor is 4 wheel drive then be sure to keep it in 4 wheel drive in rough or steep terrain.

iamgroot · Jul 27, 2017

sandman2234 said:
Welcome to the forum!!
The amount of compression that builds up during the compression stroke is what you will have on your WOT automobile....
Dave is correct in what he is saying, but there is a little bit of slowing down in a diesel, but not so much that it is going to make a difference to you on a long down hill driveway.
Make sure the brakes are good, keep the tractor in a gear slower than you really want to go, and if you start picking up speed, then yes the rear boxblade and the front end loader are your best friends!
David from jax

Yes, I am very pleased with it, to say the least. My road after only 2 hours of time working on it is already 100% better. It no longer reminds me of the Rubicon Trail. Speaking of Gannon boxes... I found a very good multi-page long post http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html about using the box scraper, but I'm confused because it talks about the "front blade/rear blade." My Gannon unit has no front blade, only a curved rear blade (and of course side skirts and ripper teeth). Does that make a Gannon box different than a normal box blade, not having a front blade, that is?

jimmysisson · Jul 27, 2017

My old Gannon has a heavy "flap" blade in the back plus the expected blade for moving material forward. Very handy for snow, my main use for it.
Jim

sandman2234 · Jul 27, 2017

iamgroot said:
Yes, I am very pleased with it, to say the least. My road after only 2 hours of time working on it is already 100% better. It no longer reminds me of the Rubicon Trail. Speaking of Gannon boxes... I found a very good multi-page long post http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html about using the box scraper, but I'm confused because it talks about the "front blade/rear blade." My Gannon unit has no front blade, only a curved rear blade (and of course side skirts and ripper teeth). Does that make a Gannon box different than a normal box blade, not having a front blade, that is?

If I am reading it correctly, the front/rear blade deal is... Some (not all) boxblades have the blade that cuts (in the rear of the box)as you go forward. They also have another blade that cuts as you back up. (on the very back side of the boxblade) So basically there are two blades separated by the back wall of the "box". So as you pull forward, the box fills up, because the front blade is cutting and the back wall (and also sides) is collecting the dirt. The rear blade is mostly used to smooth out dirt as you back up, something that is very useful in filling a ditch, or other holes in a yard, especially near a wall or other area that you can't pull forward over.
David from jax

sandman2234 · Jul 27, 2017

iamgroot said:
Yes, I am very pleased with it, to say the least. My road after only 2 hours of time working on it is already 100% better. It no longer reminds me of the Rubicon Trail. Speaking of Gannon boxes... I found a very good multi-page long post http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html about using the box scraper, but I'm confused because it talks about the "front blade/rear blade." My Gannon unit has no front blade, only a curved rear blade (and of course side skirts and ripper teeth). Does that make a Gannon box different than a normal box blade, not having a front blade, that is?

I went and started reading that post, and realized I had read it before. So I looked to see who posted it, and saw that it was 3RRL. I was always a big fan of his posts, and always tried to read them. When he left, he was missed, because of his ability to explain things in detail extremely well, so that even us dummies could understand them.
If you want a glass like driveway, start saving up for a thing that is called a 3 point land plane, Dura-grader, or similar. There are several posts where they are used, and even a few where they are built. I posted one with over 80 pictures, but photobucket has probably corrupted that post with their foolish requirements.
David from jax

iamgroot · Jul 27, 2017

sandman2234 said:
If I am reading it correctly, the front/rear blade deal is... Some (not all) boxblades have the blade that cuts (in the rear of the box)as you go forward. They also have another blade that cuts as you back up. (on the very back side of the boxblade) So basically there are two blades separated by the back wall of the "box". So as you pull forward, the box fills up, because the front blade is cutting and the back wall (and also sides) is collecting the dirt. The rear blade is mostly used to smooth out dirt as you back up, something that is very useful in filling a ditch, or other holes in a yard, especially near a wall or other area that you can't pull forward over.
David from jax

Yes, now I understand. I watched some Youtube videos and realized that the front blade is still at the back of the box. That's what confused me, but now I understand. Thanks for clarifying that.

As far as needing it to be any smoother, I don't. I've lived with it in 4-wheel drive only mode for so long that it now feels like the autobahn in Germany to me. And that's after only two nights of 1 hour each. I'm absolutely amazed by how well this tractor works. Everybody who looked at it told me it needs a dozer, but this thing is just fine. I'm super happy with it, but there is definitely something wrong with the hydraulics. I sometimes loose power steering going up hill and also loose forward motion. I plan on spending the weekend getting to the bottom of the problem. I also want to install some good gauges.

I have searched and searched and searched and cannot find anywhere on the internet where to check and fill the transmission fluid (YES I ORDERED A MANUAL). Evidently, nobody here knows either. Maybe I need to start searching the dark web

.

sandman2234 · Jul 27, 2017

iamgroot said:
Yes, now I understand. I watched some Youtube videos and realized that the front blade is still at the back of the box. That's what confused me, but now I understand. Thanks for clarifying that.

As far as needing it to be any smoother, I don't. I've lived with it in 4-wheel drive only mode for so long that it now feels like the autobahn in Germany to me. And that's after only two nights of 1 hour each. I'm absolutely amazed by how well this tractor works. Everybody who looked at it told me it needs a dozer, but this thing is just fine. I'm super happy with it, but there is definitely something wrong with the hydraulics. I sometimes loose power steering going up hill and also loose forward motion. I plan on spending the weekend getting to the bottom of the problem. I also want to install some good gauges.

I have searched and searched and searched and cannot find anywhere on the internet where to check and fill the transmission fluid (YES I ORDERED A MANUAL). Evidently, nobody here knows either. Maybe I need to start searching the dark web.

Typically the transmission fluid is a dipstick located somewhere on the transmission or the rear end. Most likely it will be around the seat or behind it.
Unfortunately I haven't owned a Massey in years!
David from jax

TractorGuy · Jul 27, 2017

I also cannot answer your question on oil type or where to check it. Looks like the 50E is an industrial skip loader. Does your tractor have a clutch or does it use a torque converter? I searched over at the Heavy Equipment Forum and didn't find the answer but you may want to join over there and ask in the Tractor Loader Backhoe section.

It does sound like it is low on oil or your hill is very steep.

On my NH 575E industrial backhoe with a 4spd shuttle the transmission uses the same type oil that is in the hydraulic system. It has a torque converter rather than a clutch. It has a dipstick at the right rear of the engine compartment and the oil is checked with the engine running and the transmission warmed up just like and automatic transmission car. If you find it uses hydraulic fluid take a look at the specs on Tractor Supply's Traveler Premium hydraulic oil label and see if it has the cross over on it.

I wish the brakes worked on my backhoe. I use it mainly in a fairly flat field and just drive it real slow in first. When I let off the gas it will slowly come to a stop and if need be I pull it into reverse and ease on the gas to stop it.

iamgroot · Jul 28, 2017

JD855guy said:
I also cannot answer your question on oil type or where to check it. Looks like the 50E is an industrial skip loader. Does your tractor have a clutch or does it use a torque converter? I searched over at the Heavy Equipment Forum and didn't find the answer but you may want to join over there and ask in the Tractor Loader Backhoe section.

It does sound like it is low on oil or your hill is very steep.

On my NH 575E industrial backhoe with a 4spd shuttle the transmission uses the same type oil that is in the hydraulic system. It has a torque converter rather than a clutch. It has a dipstick at the right rear of the engine compartment and the oil is checked with the engine running and the transmission warmed up just like and automatic transmission car. If you find it uses hydraulic fluid take a look at the specs on Tractor Supply's Traveler Premium hydraulic oil label and see if it has the cross over on it.

I wish the brakes worked on my backhoe. I use it mainly in a fairly flat field and just drive it real slow in first. When I let off the gas it will slowly come to a stop and if need be I pull it into reverse and ease on the gas to stop it.

Thank you, that helps a lot.