X324 w/ 325 hrs.
- Thread starter Kosmo
- Start date
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,091
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Price seems right, but a pic or three would help.. Also would advise using it to do some mowing so you can evaluate performance and not just go by "looks"..
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,091
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
10 - 25 years.. or more if kept inside when between mowings, and cleaned off with air after every mowing, and maintained and serviced well. No mice with access to wiring and building nests inside it.
So many variables, as we don't know your habits.. Wish you well with it.
So many variables, as we don't know your habits.. Wish you well with it.
mapper
Veteran Member
Bought one new 2 years ago, this will be my third year with it. My only complaint is the deck lift lock can be hard to release. Mine has a 48" deck with a blower, it does not plug up unless the bags are completely stuffed (I.E. operator err
). The turning radius is ridiculously small, so if you have a lot of trees and obstacles this is probably the best thing this side of a zero turn.
One other minor complaint, the wash port on the mower deck is completely useless, you can make a lot of green water with it but the big deposits will still be there. I just hook the front bumper to my fel hoist it up and use a high pressure nozzle to clean up.
). The turning radius is ridiculously small, so if you have a lot of trees and obstacles this is probably the best thing this side of a zero turn.One other minor complaint, the wash port on the mower deck is completely useless, you can make a lot of green water with it but the big deposits will still be there. I just hook the front bumper to my fel hoist it up and use a high pressure nozzle to clean up.
ZFreak
New member
Bringing an old thread back from the dead here for folks looking at used older X324's:
I have a 2010 now with about 600 hours. It was stored in a garage for the first few years, then it sat outside under my lean-to for the shop for about 7'ish years, then back inside the shop after every use.
- I had to replace the deck (at $1100 in 2014) due to hitting a stump close to the ground and it threw me off the tractor! It was a hard hit and deck was twisted, not just bent. But now I have spare parts!
- The hood is plastic and it gets brittle and will split, crack, and otherwise fall apart with UV, heat cycles, etc. Mine cracked into several pieces. A new hood was about $500!
- The gauge wheels and the brackets that they ride on will wear out quickly. The brackets are expensive.
- The ECU needed replacing at about 400 hours (it would just STOP after running for about 15 minutes and wouldn't restart unless I let it sit for a few minutes, then doing the same thing again0.
- Annual oil/filter, fuel filter, air filters, and spark plugs whether it needed it or not.
- I added the JD "anti-blowout kit" to the deck (basically two flat pieces of steel that bolt to the underside of the front of the deck) and it made a world of difference not blowing up clippings and dust from the front into your face. 100% recommend getting this!
- I had one transmission oil seal start leaking pretty badly last year. It was a few hour job and about a $10 seal.
- It's now 13 years old. Leaks nothing, burns nothing at 600 hours. I use it in the woods too, not just mowing grass, so it probably gets a lot harder use than most would do.
- Lots of grease fittings - especially keep the rear u-joints greased. They get a lot of dirt and dust that get trapped on the top of the transmission. I always blow everything off before putting it away.
- I added a fuel petcock/shutoff to the fuel line so I run the fuel completely out of the carb before storing it. I've had no carb issues or anything with it.
I plan on replacing the seat pretty soon as it's getting pretty beat up. On slight occasion (I'm still looking into it), when I get below 1/2 tank it will start acting like it is being starved of fuel. I'm suspecting a vacuum issue or a fuel pump. It is a mechanical fuel pump. The OEM is a Mikuni, but most briggs and stratton and other mechanical pumps will work on these.
I have a 2010 now with about 600 hours. It was stored in a garage for the first few years, then it sat outside under my lean-to for the shop for about 7'ish years, then back inside the shop after every use.
- I had to replace the deck (at $1100 in 2014) due to hitting a stump close to the ground and it threw me off the tractor! It was a hard hit and deck was twisted, not just bent. But now I have spare parts!
- The hood is plastic and it gets brittle and will split, crack, and otherwise fall apart with UV, heat cycles, etc. Mine cracked into several pieces. A new hood was about $500!
- The gauge wheels and the brackets that they ride on will wear out quickly. The brackets are expensive.
- The ECU needed replacing at about 400 hours (it would just STOP after running for about 15 minutes and wouldn't restart unless I let it sit for a few minutes, then doing the same thing again0.
- Annual oil/filter, fuel filter, air filters, and spark plugs whether it needed it or not.
- I added the JD "anti-blowout kit" to the deck (basically two flat pieces of steel that bolt to the underside of the front of the deck) and it made a world of difference not blowing up clippings and dust from the front into your face. 100% recommend getting this!
- I had one transmission oil seal start leaking pretty badly last year. It was a few hour job and about a $10 seal.
- It's now 13 years old. Leaks nothing, burns nothing at 600 hours. I use it in the woods too, not just mowing grass, so it probably gets a lot harder use than most would do.
- Lots of grease fittings - especially keep the rear u-joints greased. They get a lot of dirt and dust that get trapped on the top of the transmission. I always blow everything off before putting it away.
- I added a fuel petcock/shutoff to the fuel line so I run the fuel completely out of the carb before storing it. I've had no carb issues or anything with it.
I plan on replacing the seat pretty soon as it's getting pretty beat up. On slight occasion (I'm still looking into it), when I get below 1/2 tank it will start acting like it is being starved of fuel. I'm suspecting a vacuum issue or a fuel pump. It is a mechanical fuel pump. The OEM is a Mikuni, but most briggs and stratton and other mechanical pumps will work on these.
It isn't bad to remove the fender deck on these and pull the fuel tank when you've got some down time. Myself, I find debris in the tank a fair amount of the time. Plus yours is old enough to have the long pick-up tube that can deteriorate. It makes it easy to clean up around the transaxle area. If the driven pulley has a nut on top, it would be a great time to replace it .
ZFreak
New member
I"ll check that out. I've never pulled the fuel tank or pickup on this machine before. Thanks for the heads up!