Xj2025h slip clutch

Ericredslslingshot · May 6, 2020

I have a bx42 chipper. Has anyone bought a slip clutch and if so how do you adjust it to make sure it has the right torque slippage

Avenger · May 6, 2020

I put slip clutches on everything that can have them. Way better than a sheer bolt. Here is how I adjust mine, its the best method I have found.

I measure the stick out of the bolts before making any adjustments. Then loosen them all equally to where it is so loose the plates will slip no matter what. Usually the nuts are holding on by just a few threads. Mark the plates across them with a sharpie or other identifiable mark. Turn on the PTO and let the clutch slip a few times. For me, this typically means revving up the engine a bit, engaging the PTO and back off again. It can be violent, but it slips. This will ensure the clutch actually slips and is not rust welded or frozen together. Do this where the implement is not working. Have the implement up in the air a bit or or out of the work. Now to tighten the nuts. This takes a bit.

Torque the nuts in a criss-cross pattern evenly. How much? Not much. Mark the plates again (use a different color or scratch or something. Using the same method is okay, but if the planets align and your old and new ones do too (highly unlikely) then you will think its good when it is still slipping). Slip the clutch by the above method, just turn it on and off. Look at the marks. They probably moved. Make another mark and tighten the nuts more. Keep repeating this until the PTO can be engaged, run up to PTO rpm without the marks moving. This tells us that the plates are not slipping anymore. Tighten the nuts about a 1/4 turn more. Then go out and use the implement just for a minute under normal operating conditions. Like mow some grass, dig a hole, run the rototiller in the ground for a few feet. Check the marks. If they moved, re-tighten the nuts just a bit more. Do it again. Keep doing this until the plates do not slip under normal operating conditions. Measure the stick out and write it down somewhere.

Keep in mind, that I do this just before using the implement for the first time of the year, every year. After I know where the stick out should be, I will start the tightening down process near (looser) than that measurement and work my way to it. For new clutches, I start it at just a few threads. Its time consuming at first, but once you get used to it, it goes fast. And when using your implement in rough conditions, way better than changing out sheer bolts.

I just filmed this process a few days ago for my tiller. I need to finish the editing and it will be posted. Keep an eye out.

Ericredslslingshot · May 7, 2020

What brand slio clutch have you bought

Avenger · May 7, 2020

This is the one that I have put on the implements that I have that dont come with their own. It works well. You need to look at your gearbox output shaft. This one is smooth for a smooth shaft. Some are gearbox shafts are splined.

https://amzn.to/2zZMTuj

Ericredslslingshot · May 7, 2020

I was going to order the slip clutch today but then I went out and looked at how long the PTO drive shaft was. It's not very long at all Maybe 20 in. So if I put on the slip clutch it's going to lose at least another 3". I don't think I want to do that.

sodamo · May 7, 2020

Avenger said:
I put slip clutches on everything that can have them. Way better than a sheer bolt. Here is how I adjust mine, its the best method I have found.

I measure the stick out of the bolts before making any adjustments. Then loosen them all equally to where it is so loose the plates will slip no matter what. Usually the nuts are holding on by just a few threads. Mark the plates across them with a sharpie or other identifiable mark. Turn on the PTO and let the clutch slip a few times. For me, this typically means revving up the engine a bit, engaging the PTO and back off again. It can be violent, but it slips. This will ensure the clutch actually slips and is not rust welded or frozen together. Do this where the implement is not working. Have the implement up in the air a bit or or out of the work. Now to tighten the nuts. This takes a bit.

Torque the nuts in a criss-cross pattern evenly. How much? Not much. Mark the plates again (use a different color or scratch or something. Using the same method is okay, but if the planets align and your old and new ones do too (highly unlikely) then you will think its good when it is still slipping). Slip the clutch by the above method, just turn it on and off. Look at the marks. They probably moved. Make another mark and tighten the nuts more. Keep repeating this until the PTO can be engaged, run up to PTO rpm without the marks moving. This tells us that the plates are not slipping anymore. Tighten the nuts about a 1/4 turn more. Then go out and use the implement just for a minute under normal operating conditions. Like mow some grass, dig a hole, run the rototiller in the ground for a few feet. Check the marks. If they moved, re-tighten the nuts just a bit more. Do it again. Keep doing this until the plates do not slip under normal operating conditions. Measure the stick out and write it down somewhere.

Keep in mind, that I do this just before using the implement for the first time of the year, every year. After I know where the stick out should be, I will start the tightening down process near (looser) than that measurement and work my way to it. For new clutches, I start it at just a few threads. Its time consuming at first, but once you get used to it, it goes fast. And when using your implement in rough conditions, way better than changing out sheer bolts.

I just filmed this process a few days ago for my tiller. I need to finish the editing and it will be posted. Keep an eye out.

Thanks, a good tutorial.
I just rebuilt (new discs, bolts, springs) for my brush hog. Used it today. A bit concerned I might have gotten too tight, but backed into some really heavy stuff, heard it bog down a bit and a whisp of smoke from the clutch. Quickly raised mower and all good.

sodamo · May 7, 2020

Ericredslslingshot said:
I was going to order the slip clutch today but then I went out and looked at how long the PTO drive shaft was. It's not very long at all Maybe 20 in. So if I put on the slip clutch it's going to lose at least another 3". I don't think I want to do that.

Have you considered buying a new shaft that has the slip clutch?
That’s what came with my tiller. Unfortunately I recently broke the universal on that shaft. Needing to get the tilling done I replaced with a spare shaft, sadly I’ve also replaced 6 shear bolts hat succumbed to not very big rocks. Need to get the slip clutch shaft fixed.

Ericredslslingshot · May 9, 2020

I measured the pto shaft length and it is 10". End to end it is 21". If I put on a slip clutch I figure I would have to shorten the shaft length by 3"+- ending up with a shaft of 7"+-. Is this ok?

sodamo · May 9, 2020

Got a pic or 2, seems a bit short to me. Now I’m curious to measure mine. I do know the slip clutch was integral part of the pto shaft on mine, not between shaft and implement.