Yanmar 180 questions

double hunter · Mar 20, 2012

Did some horse trading today and wound up with Yanmar 180, runs great needs a little tlc, nothing major, but I was looking at the rear wheels and they seem loose on the axle, looks like a bolt runs thru hub and axle and it has 2 bolts that run thru springs, may just needs to be tightened, think I will replace the thru bolt just for grins, brakes will just barely make it stop, but Hoye has shoes if neccessary, I think it needs a oil sending unit, I can ground the wire at the sending unit and the lite comes on but does not when it is connected to the sending unit with sw on, the loose rear wheels can of concern me, any thoughts,

winston1 · Mar 20, 2012

I think your 180 is pretty similiar to this 165. See figure 31. http://downloads.pfgaustralia.com.au/intranetwebcache/Parts/Parts Manuals/Yanmar/Y00T2391.pdf Different shoes, etc. but built the same.

284 International · Mar 20, 2012

The hub is held by a pin and two clamping bolts. The bolts tighten the slop between the hub and axle shaft. You're supposed to tighten them, right side first, to 72 lb-ft of torque, or 98 N-M, according to Buppie here.

If the brakes are slack, you can adjust them on the clevises, or sometimes with a notched screw on the side plates. The brake shoes can be swapped around, too.

If they aren't slack but simply don't work, you likely need some seals.

The 180 is kind of a non-powershift version of my 186, and I really like mine. Congratulations on the new toy!

double hunter · Mar 21, 2012

I didn't get to look at it very long this morning before the monsoon set in, the brakes will catch right at the very bottom of petal, looks like the clevis has about 1/2" of threads left, I figured the bolts on the hub were for tightning,, never have seen this before but this is my first Yanmar, hate to sound stupid but what do you mean by turning the shoes around, my oil pressure lite is not coming on when the ign sw is turned on but I can ground the wire that goes to the sending unit and the lite comes on, does this indicate a bad sending unit, looks like the original wring has not been tapmered with, the horn even blows, the tractor needs a some tlc, bit the meter shows 384 hours but it is a 3 digit meter, tractor cranks and runs great, wound up with about 1300 in it after some serious negotiating

284 International · Mar 21, 2012

I saw that I made a mistake in trying to link to the diagram of how to tighten the hubs. This is especially ironic, because I only recently was telling another member here how to post links in that fashion. Oops. :laughing: It is now fixed, however.

You can adjust the slack in the clevis and possibly tighten up the brakes. The shoes are also reversible. The leading shoe can be swapped for the trailing shoe, sometimes giving enough material to restore brake function. Some models also have an adjustable pivot (On the opposite side of the plate from the lever the brake rod attaches to) that can be adjusted. None of this will matter if your seals are bad and the drums are full of lubricant though. Try pulling one of the plates off, and see what it looks like.

I don't know about the oil pressure sending unit. It sounds like the sender is bad from what you describe, but it may just be a corroded terminal, too.