Yanmar 2200 3ph lift

[winston1]

Take your pick. Amazon.com: Flex Hones

 

[normde2001]

You have to determine "EXACTLY" what is causing it to stick before you can remedy the problem. No one can tell you that from a distance.

 

[Car Doc]

In automotive hydraulics IE auto trans valve body the slightest out of spec torque can deform the valve bores causing them to hang up at times.

I have used dingleball hones to re-finish lots of bores of all types they work great and don't take much material out and the finish is what I believe they call a "rounded plateau".

I may off on that exact term but the meaning is they are easy on parts and are the preferred method of final honing of engine blocks etc so the rings have a better surface to seat into.

 

[deepNdirt]

for the most part on assuming the bore is in need of honing we all must understand that this particular cylinder is not a cylinder in need for combustion, when I rebuilt the one in my 1700 I simply roll up a small pc of 400 grt sandpaper and only making a couple passes inside, then using a bit of force air to clean out any debris may be inside the bore afterwords rinsing it with fresh hydraulic oil, I then installed a new rubber O-ring re-assembled the unit and all has been working good,
To back up from the beginning when started having the problem is when I think I tried lifting something a bit too high and maybe a bit to heavy for the 3 point lift, ( disk harrow ) the pressure against the piston/plunger must have sent it too far into the bore and then would not release to allow the lift to return back down, I removed and disassembled this unit although couldn't find anything look to be bad so I re-assemble it and all went well for only a couple of lifts, then it became stuck once again, I then removed it for the 2nd time and went completely through it looking for signs of wear again nothing looked bad, so I put it all back together and still only work for a little while, the 3rd time was the charm when I replace the o-ring and lightly smooth sanded the cylinder bore, here is the link from my earlier thread,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/167768-rear-lift-wont-drop.html

Please excuse my give a hoot comment as i was just at wits end with this thing at the time, and now after reading i see where I left that thread hanging, I should have went back and informed those good folks who tried to help with the outcome, as I work on my tractor most things I find with the problems are very minor repairs, I have learned to try troubleshooting with the simplest of things and move toward the more complex,:thumbsup: nothing worst then trying to resolve a problem by removing the engine when you hear a thump! when all all along it was just a flat tire

 

[Car Doc]

All precision bores hydraulic or otherwise are honed and/or lapped not hand sanded when built.

Hand sanding is a very poor way to resurface a bore and because it worked only after the third try is an indication of that but by all means use what you have and what you know how to do. :thumbsup:

 

[normde2001]

I believe he said "it will lower but not lift". I doubt that honing is going to fix anything.

 

[deepNdirt]

All precision bores hydraulic or otherwise are honed and/or lapped not hand sanded when built.

Hand sanding is a very poor way to resurface a bore and because it worked only after the third try is an indication of that but by all means use what you have and what you know how to do. :thumbsup:

sorry for the confusion, but it wasn't until the 3rd attempt when I actually run a small pc of sandpaper in the cylinder , and this wasn't to try to "hone" out the cylinder but only to remove if any slight burs might been inside, although I really doubt it! and as I said it was the O-ring that actually fixed the problem, when I looked at the old O-ring under a Magnifying glass I could see 2 small edges that could have possibly let the fluid bypass, I have a Honing tool that I could have used I just opt not to do so until last resort, I certainly didn't want to have to try re-fitting a larger O-ring if I so happen to over honed it,

 

[deepNdirt]

I believe he said "it will lower but not lift". I doubt that honing is going to fix anything.

I read back the first thread and could swear it reads will not lower,

 

[6011Artist]

deepndirt, thanks for your reply. I didn't disassemble the plunger from the valve but like someone else posted, the worst scenerio would be to have to replace the valve and it sure isn't working now. Deteriated o-ring may be the problem. When I get the time I will tear into it and go further this time.

So far I have asked questions, gotten good sensible answers and my repairs have been overall quite simple once I get into it. Thanks for the education guys, it builds the confidence and makes tackling the job easier with new knowledge gained. I'm pretty mechanically inclined here and knowing the valve body or plunger most likely haven't changed their shape I think the o-ring change might be the issue. We'll know once I get a project out of my shop to make room for the Yanmar to go in.

Anybody else have experiences with this please feel free to chime in. I'll post the results after I get into it.

 

[6011Artist]

The first two times it would lift but not lower.

But now it was lowering slowly, the adjustment under the seat having no effect on the lowering speed, been doing that the last few times I used it with practically no weight on the 3ph, just a trailer hitch reese tube attachment. And the last time I went to move a trailer it would not lift. To get the job done I just switched tractors, haven't taken the time to investigate the Yanmar yet. Glad I got more than 1 tractor although they both have their perks about them.