Yanmar 3110D oil type and capacity?

[bmaverick]

Mine has the ROPS and PTO shield on it as well as the loader frame. Here is a picture of it before I took the bubble wrap off the ROPS.

Sweet. You got a refub unit that's more like a restore. You must be out west because those machines are badged YNM and the V-loaders are made in Vietnam.

Did you get a loader manual for the machine. It would help down the road for getting replacement pins and seals.

 

[AndyTheCornbread]

Yes, sorry I didn't update my profile with where I am at but I am in NW Montana and I got the tractor from a refurb/restore place out of Idaho. I'll update my profile as soon as I figure out how to do so. I got the manual for the hydraulic joystick later on when I needed to fix it last year but I don't have the manual for the loader frame. I wish I did because I want to make a manure bucket for it and I need the specs on the quick detach stuff on the frame so I can make the brackets that will get welded to the bucket. First things first I need to oil change the tractor and then I need to change the hydraulic fluid again before winter because whatever they used when they rebuilt it gets thicker in winter here than it should. It still works but I worry about wrecking something so i am going to switch it with a J20D Napa equivalent full synthetic before end of Oct when we usually get our first staying snows.

 

[bmaverick]

I need to change the hydraulic fluid again before winter because whatever they used when they rebuilt it gets thicker in winter here than it should. It still works but I worry about wrecking something so i am going to switch it with a J20D Napa equivalent full synthetic before end of Oct when we usually get our first staying snows.

In WI, we see temps down to -22F, so J20D is helpful. J20C could work that low, just a bit slower. Over in the Ukraine, Russia and other Eastern EU countries, Mopar ATF+4 is easy to get, but not the J20C or D. So, people end up using that instead.