Yanmar blowed up

   / Yanmar blowed up
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Dave, thanks for the support. Often times I surprise myself with what I can get done. This may be one of those times.

Jerry, I called the nice folks at Hoye tractor and they couldn't make a gasket with their new contraption. I guess there is no part number for the gasket so they would need the transmission cover in order to fabricate one.

I did obtain some gasket making material and made the two gaskets that I need. One for the tranny cover and one for the box that mounts to the tranny cover that engages the four wheel drive. Took about 90 minutes.

I also had to clean up the shaft that held the bearing that got chewed up. It had some minor scratches, burrs, etc.

I will order one Naichi 6303 bearing from a local supplier and (hopefully!) put it all back together.

Stay tuned!
 
   / Yanmar blowed up #22  
Why not use high temp silicone for the gasket. I have used this stuff many times when I needed a gasket. When I had a drag car , I didn't go to the track without a tube of high temp. silicone . My axle housing on my 3110 was leaking where the axle housing bolts to the rearend. I used high temp. sislcone . Been leak free for 2 yrs
 
   / Yanmar blowed up
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Ken, thanks for the tip. To be honest, there are so many gears, forks, shafts and bearings that need to be aligned etc. when the cover goes on that I envision having to play with it to get it all together. I didn't want to have to deal with silicone if parts were dropping or there were alignment issues, etc. And there's always the chance that once it goes together something will be not be quite right and I'll be taking it apart again.
 
   / Yanmar blowed up #24  
Yanmar140D said:
Ken, thanks for the tip. To be honest, there are so many gears, forks, shafts and bearings that need to be aligned etc. when the cover goes on that I envision having to play with it to get it all together. I didn't want to have to deal with silicone if parts were dropping or there were alignment issues, etc. And there's always the chance that once it goes together something will be not be quite right and I'll be taking it apart again.



Put the silicone the part let it dry as per the instructions & then put the cover on. If you had a gasket & you had to take the cover back off or move the part around, there would be a chance that you would tear a gasket.

If you want , you can always buy gasket material at the local auto parts & trace place the cover on the gasket material & trace it with a pen & cut the material to fit
 
   / Yanmar blowed up #25  
Sorry I haven't been following this thread, but here is some belated advice on making gaskets. Any gasket can be easily made with a small ball peen hammer. You place gasket material over the cover, hold it in place and with a small ball peen hammer (ball end), you gently tap along the sharp edges of the outline, as well as the bolt holes. Cast iron is easy, but with aluminum you need to very gently tap (peen) so as not to damage the edge. The sharp edges (including the holes) cut the gasket material leaving a perfect fit. On complicated shapes, you need to anchor the gasket well, but the best way to do that is to start with a bolt hole or two (the dimples will hold the gasket in place) and tap between them. This will not damage the cover or part if you take your time and gently tap (not hammer) through (or almost through) the gasket material. You are doing it correctly when the gasket material is gently separates away from the tapping. Often it is a bit much to expect the bolt holes to clean nicely unless your hammer is quite small. An inexpensive set of gasket punches are an advantage, but not necessary when made with patience.
 
   / Yanmar blowed up #26  
I have seen this method done a couple times. It works very well.
 
   / Yanmar blowed up
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I'd like to thank everybody for your input on my broken tractor. I am pleased to say that the tractor is back together and running. Yesterday I got the bearing I needed and started the reassembly process. I hit one snafu. Since my manual shows how to disassemble the tranny, check tolerances (which I thoroughly did), etc. only once the tranny is removed from the tractor chassis. I never took the tranny out, just pulled off the cover (which is facing the front of the tractor), and took the shafts, gears, forks, etc. out. Since the manual assumes the tranny is sitting on a bench while all this is going on, it didn't give me the heads up on watching out for the PTO connecting shaft. To make a long story short, the pto shaft pulled out of the coupler and fell down inside the housing. Luckily I was able to pull the pto assembly off and fish out the shaft and coupler through the pto area. I figured out how to put the tranny and pto pieces back together in a way that made more sense (common sense?) then what the manual said. Once it was back together, I filled the tranny with oil, adjusted the shift linkage and test drove it. Much to my surprise, it ran nice, shifted fine, 4wd engaged smoothly, pto functioned normally, no leaks! and the weld repair appears to be holding up.. Though this tranny adventure is over, we all know its only a matter of time before another tractor drama comes along. I learned alot with this repair and gained quite a bit of confidence in my repair skills along the way.
Thanks again to all.
 
   / Yanmar blowed up #28  
Bravo!! I just love a happy ending!!:D Now with this experience you are ready to advise and help the next person that might have problems.

Mike
 
   / Yanmar blowed up #29  
This is the sort of thread that makes TBN so valuable. Somebody else will break their Yanny, then read this and be encouraged and supported. Good job!
 

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