Yanmar LX Rear Remote Kit Install

[Katahdin]

I finished the install of the rear remotes kit on my LX this weekend. I wanted to share the pics and experiences with others who may be interested in doing the same.

Here's the kit:



Here's the documentation that came with the kit:
Yanmar_LX_remote_kit.pdf 5.5MB

Note, I did not follow the instructions verbatim. The operator seat, fuel tank, and fenders were not removed as its says to do in the intructions. I basically started on page 12 and ended on page 23. Overall the documentation was good, but the quality of the pictures were terrible and I think some of the steps needs updating.

The tools I used on the kit were:
C-Clip Pliers - for couplers
Large Crescent Wrench - for couplers and one larger line fitting.
Bench Vice - mostly for for pressing bushings into the lever handles
Sockets for 12mm, 10mm, 30mm, 15/16"
A cut down 7/8" 12 point wrench to make it usable as a line wrench for tight spots
A craftsman 7/8" line wrench
torque wrench
3/4" crow's foot - I used this for torquing the right-angle fittings to the couplers
1/2 inch breaker bar - for removing line banjo bolts and clutch housing plug
long 1/2 inch socket extension

Methods: All fittings were torqued to spec. All O-rings were lubed with hydraulic fluid, all lines were blown out first with compressed air. All fittings were left covered until the lines were installed. All lines were snugged down the best I could with the craftsman line wrench. All lines were checked for leaks, none found.

 

[Katahdin]

First, you need to remove the rear-right tire. A pneumatic jack and shop crane made this easy. The tire is loaded with a water/methanol mix. My wife supervised any handling of the tire in case anything should have befallen the writer of this post.

 

[Katahdin]

Here is the general area under the fender where the kit will be installed:

 

[Katahdin]

The first steps in assembling the couplers was easy. The couplers are fastened to the backing plates with c-clips. I put them in a viced-crescent wrench when I torqued on the right-angle fittings. I've made a couple notes on the picture.

 

[Katahdin]

Next you torque the line-connector fittings onto the valves. The only part where I was confused was the lower fittings. The instructions reference a #18 connector and some other fitting. In the end, I used two #18 fittings. The two bottom fittings connect to larger lines than the 5 other fittings.

The handles and valve links weren't too difficult to assemble, but here are some better pictures.

I used a bench vise to press the four bushings into the bottom of the two levers.

Tip: attach the "valve stay assembly plate" after the levers are fully assembled else you're going to have a heck of a time inserting the cotter pins.





Last picture is mounting the valves under the fender. No issues here, lots of room.

 

[Katahdin]

There is one line on the tractor to remove and discard. This line goes from the loader valve to the rear lift-arm housing under the fuel tank. You will be removing two banjo bolts, copper washers, and the line. Use a breaker bar with a long socket extension to get to the banjo bolt under the fuel tank. You will need to thread and torque line connectors into both of those open holes.







Install one line that goes from the rear remote valve to the front loader valve.

Install one hose (there is only one in the kit) goes from the rear remote valve to the lift arm housing.

It helps to unbolt the fuel filter and pump to wrench into that tight spot under the fuel tank. I was able to torque on the line connector pretty easy with the long extension and a 30mm socket. Tightening the line after was a bit more challenging. Here's where I cut up a 7/8" 12 point wrench to use as a line wrench. Make sure the hose necks are rotated away from the three-point lift lever and other fittings on the remote valve. I was able to do my final torquing with a proper 7/8" line wrench.

 

[Katahdin]

You will need to remove a plug from the clutch housing, install a connector fitting in its place, and run a line to the rear remote valve. This is the line that runs just above the filter.



Note, you'll want to be quick and ready to install this line, here's where you'll bleed a bit of hydraulic fluid.

 

[Katahdin]

Attaching the four lines to the couplers was last and pretty easy. Tip: Identify each line according to the documentation and label them before starting. Also, loosen/tighten the bolts fastening the couplers to the tractor as necessary to attach the lines and torque them down. The documentation will tell you what order to go in when attaching the lines.

Overall I'm very pleased with the parts, everything fit where it was supposed to. I'd like to shake the hand of the man responsible for bending the tubing.





That's it. You're done.



Actually, No, you're not. Now go put that loaded tire back on.

And don't forget to top-off your hydraulic fluid before starting the tractor and testing for leaks!

 

[TnAndy]

WOW ! Outstanding case of a picture being worth a thousand words ! Great post. Thanks !

One question, (not pertaining to the install which you covered 100%): How did you put the scrip on the photos ?

 

[Eyecatcher]

I own an EX450. I had front remote hydraulics installed by the dealer when purchased. Unfortunately he didn't use a factory kit, but cobbled up a system of his own. It is very nice, and works well. However the machine has always had problems with "float" on the FEL. I don't know if it has any relationship to the remote installation or not, since it's always been there. Yanmar America took the tractor to a different dealer (I had refused to deal further with the original dealer after he had stalled me for over a year on this problem), They said they changed the loader valve. I don't think so. What they did I don't know. Worked better for a couple of weeks after they brought it back, but now it's getting worse all the time.
I have a question. Does your loader work the same after installation. I know the LX has a much improved loader over the EX. I hope Yanmar worked the problems out before they designed the new loader.
I congratulate you on an excellent presentation of your install - very professional.

 

[Katahdin]

I'm glad you guys like the pics and find them helpful. I added the text and opaque boxes with "GIMP." I would best describe gimp as a free open-source version of Adobe Photoshop, its a full featured graphic manipulation program you can download and install for free.

Eyecatcher, I called my dealer and they arranged shipping me the kit from Yanmar. I also spoke to two other dealers within an hour of me, all the dealers I spoke to said they could sell me the kit over-the-counter. My cost was $1165 plus shipping.

All of my hydraulics, loader, lift arms, HST transmission, etc all seem to work as before. I have not put any load on the tractor yet, a change in performance is something I'll look for but since this a factory kit I don't anticipate any problems.

Also FYI, I have a top-and-tilt kit on order from Fit Rite Hydraulics, now that the remotes kit is installed I can't wait to try it out!

 

[scoutcub]

Very well documented thread! You're giving me something to aspire to.....

And now you're ahead of me, I haven't ordered my TNT kit yet.......

 

[J_J]

I am amazed at the prices some of you are paying for a two spool remote valve, and does either spool have float?

You simply don't have to have the factory kit to have a well laid out neat looking remote system or a 3rd function system.

I guess money is no object to some of you and to some of us less fortunate , it is very important.

 

[scoutcub]

JJ -

Unfortunately not all of us are hydraulic Gods and prefer to have a factory kit designed for the machines we own. I have always been impressed with your knowledge on hydraulic issues, but your caustic response demeans your reputation.
I would go out on a limb and say money is important to us all. How WE spend our money is no concern of yours.
I think a more appropriate response would have been earlier in the thread, you could offer an alternative sourcing to the factory kit. To belittle someone's choice after the fact is just downright rude.

 

[J_J]

None of what you say is true.

You misused the work demean. The word means: shameful, dishonorable, ignominious, discreditable, disgraceful, scandalous.

I said nothing like that.

I am not the all knowing hyd person in charge of anything. All my advise is free, and only worth what you want it to be.

I am simply one trying to help and enlighten those who want help.

I simply said I was amazed at the prices some of you paid for products.

I really don't care how you spend your money.

What counts is if you got your moneys worth and you are satisfied.

Did you even ask the best way, a different way, were there any options, etc, and who had the best deal.

I am very glad for you that you did it your way. It does not bother me at all.

 

[pilotman]

I am amazed at the prices some of you are paying for a two spool remote valve, and does either spool have float?

You simply don't have to have the factory kit to have a well laid out neat looking remote system or a 3rd function system.

I guess money is no object to some of you and to some of us less fortunate , it is very important.

I am looking at the same installation on my lx 410 and agree the valve is over priced. But with all the pre bent tubing that fits properly from the factory it saves a lot of headaches. Do you have a way to save money on the plumbing?

 

[alia176]

I am looking at the same installation on my lx 410 and agree the valve is over priced. But with all the pre bent tubing that fits properly from the factory it saves a lot of headaches. Do you have a way to save money on the plumbing?

Agreed, it's a rare luxury when you a DIY guy can mimmick a factory OEM installation in his own garage. Sometimes, the price can be worth it. A good pictomentary by the OP :thumbsup:

 

[TnAndy]

I am amazed at the prices some of you are paying for a two spool remote valve, and does either spool have float?

You simply don't have to have the factory kit to have a well laid out neat looking remote system or a 3rd function system.

I guess money is no object to some of you and to some of us less fortunate , it is very important.

So would you like to provide a source(s) for alternative routes ?

 

[J_J]

There are thousands of post on this site for remote kits, and many suggestions of different products.

Some of the data points out how many spools, whether it has float, should the valve be lever or solenoid operated, do you need detents, or self canceled detents, do you need feathering. Are you interesting in double check valve on the T-N-T cyl?

Are you particular to a certain manufacturer, and the list goes on. etc, etc.

What kind of budget do you have if you want to provide that.

So if you have a basic plan, someone can provide you with different selections as to parts, full kits, do it yourself, or factory installed.

I can certainly recommend different things for your application, and other people will add to that as well. You can look at many photos, and installations that people on TBN have accomplished.

I think most of us using TBN are here and willing to help those needing help.

Your ability to select, scrounge up, modify and install is another factor in the project.

One can go from the gambit of hand holding to, here is the money, please install.

So, yes, go ahead and ask your questions. If I can, I will answer them.

 

[ishiboo]

There are thousands of post on this site for remote kits, and many suggestions of different products.

Some of the data points out how many spools, whether it has float, should the valve be lever or solenoid operated, do you need detents, or self canceled detents, do you need feathering. Are you interesting in double check valve on the T-N-T cyl?

Are you particular to a certain manufacturer, and the list goes on. etc, etc.

What kind of budget do you have if you want to provide that.

So if you have a basic plan, someone can provide you with different selections as to parts, full kits, do it yourself, or factory installed.

I can certainly recommend different things for your application, and other people will add to that as well. You can look at many photos, and installations that people on TBN have accomplished.

I think most of us using TBN are here and willing to help those needing help.

Your ability to select, scrounge up, modify and install is another factor in the project.

One can go from the gambit of hand holding to, here is the money, please install.

So, yes, go ahead and ask your questions. If I can, I will answer them.

While learning what I learned about the hydraulic system when I added my post pounder (thanks to your help as well as others) was useful, I think on a newer, nicer tractor than my own I'd go with a factory hydraulic kit as well. The custom bent lines and having everything you need is a big benefit.

Katahdin's install looks like the tractor came with it. The lines are precision bent and clearly VERY well made. You'd never get that look bending your own lines (plus you'd need the appropriate fittings and flaring tools or expensive compression fittings) or anywhere near as nice of a look going with soft hoses.

My tractor has 4300 hours, I'll be going the DIY route with foot-increment hoses, but if I had nice new tractor I'd almost certainly go the factory remote route. To each his/her own! :thumbsup: