Buying Advice Yanmar YM1700

[careyo63]

I'm guessing this is what you have. If so Your going to need a alan wrench to remove the alan /screw cap and remove the Grease Fitting/Zerk. After you remove that use a 1/4 Drill Bit and line up the outer holes to the Roll Pin or the inner part of the O/C. It goes through the PTO shaft. Use the drill bit to tap the Roll Pin through the outer part of the O/C. Pull it out and it should slide right off Here a better pic and the alan cap the Grease zerk is already off on the other side

 

[branman1971]

Yep, thats what I got. Ok so I will take out both the allen screw and the grease fitting and then drive out the roll pin that is inside the O/C until it comes through the outside of the O/C. I think I understand.

 

[careyo63]

Good wasn't a waste of time You should only have to remove 2 either 2 alan or 1 of each which ever ones are directly across from each other so your punch can go in one and the pin comes out the other. It can be a PITA. getting them lined up so do yourself a big favor and clean it up good so you can see the holes next time

Carey

 

[California]

Is there any reason to take it off?

 

[branman1971]

Is there any reason to take it off?

Nope, no reason to take it off except that I just think for some reason I should know how to do it. :confused2:

 

[careyo63]

Your just about have to and or get use to shortening Pto shafts. I've had to on every one of my Imp. My Tiller that is the only one I have to remove it for and not going to cut up another PTO Shaft and go through all of that BS. again. It still was to long having to cut both sections. They finaly sent me another shaft after makeing the one in the pic. fit but still without the O/C which I can live with not really needing it with the tiller so I just keep everything handy to remove it. If I tilled much more than our garden probably be doing it anyway to try and add a slip clutch. I'm not sure this is the correct one either :confused2:

carey

 

[deepNdirt]

No, I left it on there for the time being. I do not understand how to get the O/C off and haven't had time to get a good look at it yet but will get on it when i get back in town. I guess there is a release of some kind under the collar?

actually I was referring to when you stated the Lift wouldn't come back down
if this happens again you might as well replace the O-ring inside on the plunger/Piston...or it could happen when least expect it and get where it won't come back down at all, (like mine did)

No issues with anything until I got it home. Once home I had to raise the mower deck all the way up to get the tractor off of the trailer and then it wouldn't go back down. I tapped on the solenoid under the seat and down it came.

......................................................................
and also as mentioned there should be no need to remove the Overrun clutch (although good to know how to) our Cut Tractors have a Non-Live PTO and needs this type clutch to relief stress on the transmission/rearend while a cutter is in use, I read lately about someone "snapping off the PTO shaft" due to most likely the drive shaft not being correctly shortened to account for the OR-clutch thus causing it to be too long when in full lift, although not sure of the exact circumstances on that incident, and to also mention the OR-clutch helps with allowing the tractor to be stopped easier with less stress and wear on the brakes:thumbsup:

 

[careyo63]

Hey California, What do you use on your RS1400 a Slip Clutch. If your able to HOW??? Last time I used it I bent the short top Link not the bracket on a stump that was missed and buried. Still CRS sometimes getting better but I don't believe I can shorten the smaller shaft enough either

carey

 

[California]

I'm running the RS1400 tiller without a slip clutch, which is probably not a good idea.

 

[careyo63]

I had a feeling you was going to say that and I'm running the long arms also. Not much of a doubt now when your going to have to remove the O/C.

Carey