Yard Hydrant Connection

[utahmule]

I checked the archives but could't get a clear picture so here goes:

What's the best way to connect a new Freeze-proof yard hydrant to a PVC waterline?

I've been told to: connect directly to the line , don't worry about it;
use PE pipe w/ barb-clamp connection;
use a swing joint w/ street ells.

I want it to be sturdy and not break, but I also want to avoid digging it up to fix leaks if I can help it.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

 

[gerard]

When you say PVC are you talking about the rigid stuff that you solvent weld to make connections? My hydrant used the black plastic pipe that's somewhat flexible and that just slipped over a barbed end and was secured with hose clamps. Guess it depends on what the end of you hydrant looks like. If it has a female connection you could screw in a PVC fitting male threded one end, female socket on other and glue in the pipe. Problem with that is replacement would require cutting pipe unless you used a union.

 

[edt]

HI Utahmule on mine i used a street elbow at the bottom of the pump and threaded an barb fitting to that. I put a patio block under the elbow and strapped the pipe too a peice of 4x4 pt bured next to it and attached it to the concrete of my barn. No movement or leaks yet going into 3rd winter
EDT

 

[utahmule]

Yes, by PVC I meant the ridgid white pipe that has to be solvent welded, and by PE I meant black, flexible polyethylene typically joined w/ barbed fitting secured with stainless clamps.

The hydrant I'm talking about can be found <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.wcmind.com/Woodford/Yard%20Hydrant%20Pages/modely34.htm/>here</A>

 

[utahmule]

These will be out in the open, with no structures to attach them to, so I'm worried about what happens when they get bumped.

 

[dummy]

If you haven't finished the layout and backfilling, why not install something like a 4"post or piece of pipe along with the hydrant. Makes it easier to see, attach a hose reel to and harder to "bump" over.

 

[Stonewall]

I put one in two years ago. It sits out about 30' from the barn. I just continued the galv pipe down past frost depth, put in a 90 elbow and ran it another 5' horizontal (galv) in the trench and then finished with a barbed fitting from the guys at the ranch supply. coated the PVC with glue and JAMMED it on there while it was good and wet. Left it open the rest of the summer to test it. No leaks after 3 months so I barried it and it has been fine ever since. I will admit that it is only has to hold 50psi.

 

[RocketJSquirrel]

My opinion is since you have PVC, screw a steel street elbow into the bottom of the hydrant. Screw a PVC male NPT adapter into that. Use teflon tape on both joints. Solvent weld the PVC together and you are done. The backfill should hold it upright but it sure doesn't hurt to put a small post or 4x4 in next to the upright pipe.

There is no benefit from assembling a swing joint. The PVC will break before the joint will swing. And anyway, you are presumably putting the bottom below the frost line, so there should not be any movement.

 

[turnkey4099]

When transitioning from PVC/CPVC (the rigid stuff), ALWAYS use a male PVC/CPVC to female iron fitting. I learned that the hard way after spending a winter with a bad leak at one of my hydrants. I had used a female PVC and it split on the cast line. I follow the experts advice and put in swing joints made of galv. A short piece of galv, 90 el, a few feet of galv to galv tee or el and transition to the PVC. Don't know if it helps but it for sure don't hurt. Also the bottom of the hydrant should be well filled in with coarse roch for drainage.

Harry K

 

[frigman]

yard hydrant question
Can anyone tell me if the weep hole at the bottom of the stand pipe should not drip at all after the spigot has been shut off for a few hours. The weep hole drips about a drop every 2 seconds---I pulled the plunger out and it appears to look ok----Soo--any thoughts. This is a woodford y34 hydrant Thanks for any assistance