Yard Hydrant Connection

[utahmule]

I checked the archives but could't get a clear picture so here goes:

What's the best way to connect a new Freeze-proof yard hydrant to a PVC waterline?

I've been told to: connect directly to the line , don't worry about it;
use PE pipe w/ barb-clamp connection;
use a swing joint w/ street ells.

I want it to be sturdy and not break, but I also want to avoid digging it up to fix leaks if I can help it.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

 

[gerard]

When you say PVC are you talking about the rigid stuff that you solvent weld to make connections? My hydrant used the black plastic pipe that's somewhat flexible and that just slipped over a barbed end and was secured with hose clamps. Guess it depends on what the end of you hydrant looks like. If it has a female connection you could screw in a PVC fitting male threded one end, female socket on other and glue in the pipe. Problem with that is replacement would require cutting pipe unless you used a union.

 

[edt]

HI Utahmule on mine i used a street elbow at the bottom of the pump and threaded an barb fitting to that. I put a patio block under the elbow and strapped the pipe too a peice of 4x4 pt bured next to it and attached it to the concrete of my barn. No movement or leaks yet going into 3rd winter
EDT

 

[utahmule]

Yes, by PVC I meant the ridgid white pipe that has to be solvent welded, and by PE I meant black, flexible polyethylene typically joined w/ barbed fitting secured with stainless clamps.

The hydrant I'm talking about can be found <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.wcmind.com/Woodford/Yard%20Hydrant%20Pages/modely34.htm/>here</A>

 

[utahmule]

These will be out in the open, with no structures to attach them to, so I'm worried about what happens when they get bumped.

 

[dummy]

If you haven't finished the layout and backfilling, why not install something like a 4"post or piece of pipe along with the hydrant. Makes it easier to see, attach a hose reel to and harder to "bump" over.

 

[Stonewall]

I put one in two years ago. It sits out about 30' from the barn. I just continued the galv pipe down past frost depth, put in a 90 elbow and ran it another 5' horizontal (galv) in the trench and then finished with a barbed fitting from the guys at the ranch supply. coated the PVC with glue and JAMMED it on there while it was good and wet. Left it open the rest of the summer to test it. No leaks after 3 months so I barried it and it has been fine ever since. I will admit that it is only has to hold 50psi.

 

[RocketJSquirrel]

My opinion is since you have PVC, screw a steel street elbow into the bottom of the hydrant. Screw a PVC male NPT adapter into that. Use teflon tape on both joints. Solvent weld the PVC together and you are done. The backfill should hold it upright but it sure doesn't hurt to put a small post or 4x4 in next to the upright pipe.

There is no benefit from assembling a swing joint. The PVC will break before the joint will swing. And anyway, you are presumably putting the bottom below the frost line, so there should not be any movement.

 

[turnkey4099]

When transitioning from PVC/CPVC (the rigid stuff), ALWAYS use a male PVC/CPVC to female iron fitting. I learned that the hard way after spending a winter with a bad leak at one of my hydrants. I had used a female PVC and it split on the cast line. I follow the experts advice and put in swing joints made of galv. A short piece of galv, 90 el, a few feet of galv to galv tee or el and transition to the PVC. Don't know if it helps but it for sure don't hurt. Also the bottom of the hydrant should be well filled in with coarse roch for drainage.

Harry K

 

[frigman]

yard hydrant question
Can anyone tell me if the weep hole at the bottom of the stand pipe should not drip at all after the spigot has been shut off for a few hours. The weep hole drips about a drop every 2 seconds---I pulled the plunger out and it appears to look ok----Soo--any thoughts. This is a woodford y34 hydrant Thanks for any assistance

 

[Kays Supply]

If anyone else has more experience at this that me, I will give to there advice. If not, I have been plumbing for 30+ years. If you want the least trouble with this, you will run the feed line to the hydrant from inside the house/barn whatever. Put a shut off valve on it. If the hydrant gets damaged on a cold winter day you just shut the valve and fix it when the weather is better. If it is on your house line ahead of the house you will be out there fixing it rain or shine so the momma can take a bath.

Use soft copper about three or 4 feet long to connect to the bottom of the hydrant. It will give quite a bit before failing. PVC will snap at the threads if the hydrant is torqued much at all. There are fittings made by McDonald that are brass compression. They can connect to the PVC without glue so you can get back to using it and don't have to dry it out to make a glue joint if you must connect ahead of the house. I would still put a valve between the house line and the hydrant even if it is under ground.

Anchor it to some kind of post for sure. A mower or lifestock can do a real damage quick.

 

[heehaw]

i hate yard hydrants: i put a bunch in when we built in 86, an replaced all but one several times before i quit using them: except for the one that is still original an still works: they should not drip out the drain hole after a couple minutes: i connected my outside faucets several different ways till i finally did this: i put a 2 or 3 foot piece of clear nylon reinforced flexible pipe on the end of the pipe and connected that to my pvc: i have donkeys that love to scratch on the pipe, an they broke everything i tried till i did this: i think they could push it completely over an it still wouldn't break: i got the clear, nylon reinforced pipe at lowes, its high pressure hose and has been in for close to 10 years now with no problems. i did put a piece of scrap 1.5 or 2 inch pvc over the top of the pipe to make sure it didn't collapse when i run over it.
heehaw

 

[Gator6x4]

Follow the detailed instruction in the web page below. The only thing I would add is instead of just pouring the bag of cement around the hydrant is to place a form around the hydrant and then place cement in the form. This will give you somewhere to set a bucket to fill with water, not splash muddy water on you when using the hydrant without a hose attached and will provide support for the hydrant. Be sure to place a bag of gravel in the hole before adding any fill.

How to Install a Yard Hydrant : How-To : DIY Network

 

[heehaw]

yep, an when you pour cement around it, get ready to either tear out the cement, cut off the hydrant or have a useless pipe sticking up, in about 10 years: all of them i have had, required repairs after a few years: the ones used the least, required the repairs the quickest: they would stick an when i opened the water, it wouldn't close. that said, i have seen some last 25 years too: but my experience hasn't been on that end.
heehaw