Ye-ha! I finally ordered my new CUT!

[Champy]

Wellllll, its show time..............

The JD990 was delivered today, and here are some pics(hopefully).

JD990; 300CX; HD Bucket w/Toothbar; R4's w/Wheel weights; LX5 Rotary Cutter w/clutch & safety chains; 2 Welded on Bucket hooks; Work Light

 

[JimParker]

Hey, Champy! Congratulations! That's a really nice-looking machine.

What brand of tooth bar did you select, and why? I'm starting to think about one for my 300CX, and wondered. I hear good things about the Markham tooth bars (I hope I spelled that right). Have you had much chance to use it yet?

 

[ronjhall]

The last picture says it all.

 

[_RaT_]

Thats great Champy, have a blast. Like your last comment, I can relate.

"price was acceptable to me (and in the normal ballpark for % off List) but I am declining to publish an exact amount to avoid experiencing buyer's remorse after hearing from everyone else who paid thousands less.......and this is my first tractor so I'd like the afterglow to last a while longer."

 

[tensaw12]

Great Looking Tractor!!! I know, you are very proud.
I have a question, I am thinking, about installing a tooth bar, will the toothbar have any effect on my ability to finish grade? Exactly, what is the main function of the toothbar?
I know, it sounds a little dumb, maybe a lot. But, if you don't know, you don't know
Ray

 

[frank_f15]

Your right Ronh sure looks like a happy camper.

 

[Champy]

JimParker - I honestly don't know what brand the toothbar is......the dealer put in on as part of the package. Its a real beast though..


TenSaw12 - The toothbar allows your bucket to pierce the ground better when digging instead of having a single edge trying to cut the whole length at once. It breaks up the material allowing you to scoup and cut as you go...... When finish grading I may get a back-blade, but for now am simply using the rounded bottom of the bucket and pulling backwards. During snow season, I will take the bolt on toothbar off to avoid ripping the driveway up too.

Went out this am and cut down a mound in the back and used it for fill behind the shed. Put the 990 into MFWD and just pushed right through the turf and dirt.......hardest part was learning where "level" was. It has a indicator rod on the bucket, so I got it after a while. Also used the bush-hog to cut down some brush.

I then let my 13 yr old son drive it around out back while the wife took pictures......don't know who was grinning more - him or me!

 

[Champy]

Here are some closer pics of the bucket; toothbar; and welded on hooks.

 

[Dargo]

Not to be nit picky, but with such a beautiful, top of the line rig, those hooks have to go. You ought to smack whoever put those on. You don't weld on "pin on" hooks! It will cost all of about $10 to buy weld two on hooks that are made to be welded on. Besides being far stronger, it just isn't right to have such a wonderful high quality rig with Rube Goldberg hooks on the bucket. Simply put, that's just wrong. The only thing they got right is having them in line with the loader arms. You never want to pull on a bucket on the outer edges of the bucket.

Here is a picture of the hooks you should have welded on your bucket. One is on a Kubota and one on a JD heavy duty Worksite Pro bucket. Plain and simple, I'd demand the proper hooks be welded on your tractor. It's far, far too nice for such a botched up job on the hooks. Again, I hate to sound picky, but everything else is so perfect. The sloppy botched hook job simply doesn't go with the rest of the rig. Fortunately, with such a small contact area, those pin on hooks can be cut off with a grinder in a few seconds and you can have the proper hooks welded on. But, since the person who welded those on was, er..., well, dumb enough to do that, I would probably have someone else weld the proper hooks on. Good luck!

 

[ronjhall]

Here are some closer pics of the bucket; toothbar; and welded on hooks.

The toothbar looks a lot like the WR Long I have on my bucket.