Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while

   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while #21  
the tie rod pin is a pin rigid in a socket. the other end is a captive ball joint. the rod from front to back of cource cam rotate as the ball and socket MUST be able to move. no fore / aft slop like a loose ball in a joint. but the joint must be able for the pin to spin in the socket.
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Thanks soundguy I appreciate it. I've ordered and am going to replace the tie ends just to see. I don't see anything else that is at all loose unless we are back to the gear box but I don't feel any slop in it. I also think I'm going to reverse the front tires to get more clearance from the spindle arm, the right only has 3/16 between the nut and the tire. Is it possible the reason the tractor died on the way back the other day is the coil got hot or is going bad. I've started the thing 5 or 6 times today with out an issue. Also what is everyone's opinion of electronic ignition. The hydraulics: Does the oil being thrown up from the front of the housing tell us anything
Thanks
Ron
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while #23  
ei is the answer to a want more than a need.

points run just fine if you maintain them. if you are not willing or capable to maintain them.. then yeah.. EI.

coil getting hot?

what coil? what system voltage?

what resistors.

oil thrown up from t he bellhousing where?
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I've read the coil to the distributer can get hot and cause problems (but it is in the area behind the fan so I doubt heat is the problem but I'm grasping at straws here, voltage is 12 v and the thing just shutting down the other day has me guessing wildly. I had gas (pulled the line loose at the carb and had free gas flow), I had spark because it would fire and run 15-30 sec if I choked it and then quit again,
The oil being splashed up. I opened the inspection plate per your suggestion. If I look at the manual right sort of even with the front of the inspection hole, oil was being pushed up, I saw no sign of any oil except the oil being splashed (or bubbled )up from the front of the pump. Is that the area of the relief pump.
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while #25  
some oil movement is normal.

coil heating issues depends on what coil you have and what resistors you have.

dieing and restarting after a very short time is almost always fuel.. not coil..
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while
  • Thread Starter
#26  
ATTACH=CONFIG]384286[/ATTACH] oil leak 024.jpg
Soundguy, I hooked up my real disc to the tractor today, opened the inspection plate and this is what I saw. I'm guessing that stream coming down is a bad thing
 

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   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while #27  
just worn piston rings, cyl bore or gasket under the cyl. no biggie.. just leaks..
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Ok I know I'm a pain but. there is a gasket and ring kit for like 25 bucks and there is one with the sleeve for 95 would you go ahead and replace the sleeve out of principle or try to get by cheap. I think I've got the answer to this question but how does the oil get from the pump to the ram. I see what is called a oil tube on pg 96 fig. fo145 that is the only thing that I can find do do this, if it is, how much of a pain is it to line the tube back up
Thanks
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while #29  
one with a sleeve? sleeve for what?

the stand pipe on the side of the center housing is how the oil gets from the pump to the top cover.

unless it was perforated.. there is no reason you should be concerned with removing it.
 
   / Yep I think I'm going to be a pain for a while
  • Thread Starter
#30  
should of called it the ram cylinder? or cyl
 

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