Yet another guy looking for a mid/compact Ag tractor (lots 'O details)...

   / Yet another guy looking for a mid/compact Ag tractor (lots 'O details)... #11  
Your wife has had ten years of living with you, and she doesn't like driving your tractor. This is an easy one... She deserves a new tractor of her own!!

Take her to the lot, drive something big without a hydro transmission. Then move down to the largest hydro tractor they make. She'll love it, and it'll seem reasonably sized in comparison.

Only problem is that she might not let you use it much.
 
   / Yet another guy looking for a mid/compact Ag tractor (lots 'O details)... #12  
if ya wanting a backhoe, look at tractor specific models, were you do a 180 with the tractor seat, to operate the backhoe. vs getting off tractor and hoping on the backhoe seat. most models you can remove the backhoe and have access to the 3pt hitch. www.tractorhouse.com for me, being able to do 180 in seat to operate backhoe has gotten me out of many tight jambs... driving to far into mud and getting stuck, and needing to operate both FEL, backhoe, at same time. to push/pull me, due to tires alone are just acting like snow sleds. and not gripping a thing.

there are industrial tractors out there, but the backhoe's do not come off, and give you access to 3pt hitch, (there for construction use, not farm use) http://www.machinerytrader.com/ granted some industrial machinery out there may still give access to a 3pt hitch.

many folks that get a backhoe or excavator, or like, most of them want a "thumb" either mechanical (undo a bar and pin it in at different locations) or adjust the thumb with hydraulic cylinder.

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your FEL (front end loader), tractor, backhoe, (adding cab in here as well) tend to be more high dollar ticket items, getting all 3 at same time, on same order, there more likely be a bigger chance for a better deal when buying. vs buying stuff individually over time.

even when you get a cab, some manufactures i have caught showing a "smaller" alternator, and charging for a bigger alternator. it may not seem like nothing, but when ya get extra rear and front working lights up high on the cab, and start adding electrical winches, etc... that bigger alternator comes up quickly, more so if ya shut down tractor, and find you have a dead battery...

working early mornings to late nights when stuff goes ugly, having them upper front and rear working lights on the cab, heck even on a open station tractor are worth it!! have used the tractor as spot lights a few times, (cleaning stuff up after dark, / finishing off a project that just needs a little bit more time to deal with, etc..)

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transmission.... your looking in larger HP tractors, so you are more likely to see "power shuttle shift" to hydro static pedals, to other... double check transmission specs... to much ugly marketing blur the lines of transmissions now a days, along with overall variety of transmissions out there. were a geared tractor may operate much like a hydro static transmission to a descent degree. along with CVT like transmissions. it is all blurred into a mumbo jumbo anymore. more so by marketing of only giving PRO's vs also giving CON's to help compare to.

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most larger tractors in your size, should automatically come with "steering brakes" for rear wheels (a brake pedal for right rear tire, and a brake pedal for left rear tire) this for me is automatic must.

differential lock, (locking rear tires together) can be a big one as well.

ya 4x4 or MFWD, is all big and all, but the above couple options at least for me are requirement not an option. to getting my rear unstuck. having the front wheels turning under power, only goes so far, granted it helps a huge amount... but it is not a cure all for everything.

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hills and steep hills. a wider width of a tractor will more likely be wanted, along with tires with a fluid.

pending on rims of rear tires, you might be able to swap them left for right on the rear to get a wider width, or you may need to go with spacers it depends.

many tractor manuals may note the following though.... if backhoe is on. the tires should not be filled with fluid, and some also say do not load the front tires with a fluid. double check!!! don't take word of what some sales person says, double check the manuals. if they are a dealership, they should have access to some sort of pdf files or like on there computer. for manual of a given tractor.

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block heater install, if winter temps get down below 32 degrees and stay below for a few plus days, and you have a diesel engine, fairly cheap to get off internet and not that much work to install, but if dealer is putting some extra stuff on, might as well have them do it.

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bucket hooks on FEL (front end loader) general duty bucket. if you don't know how to weld. get it done via dealer before it arrives. might suggest getting a hook welded to back side of backhoe bucket as well.

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on small tractors tires are not that expensive, but the tractor you have or currently looking to buy, tires are rather costly, in 1000's to 4000 plus per tire. make sure you get correct style of tire you want, from ply ratings, to R1 lug types, to radial vs bias. being this will be a 4x4 / MFWD tractor, you need to keep correct "ratio" of tire diameters for front vs rears. so the expense goes up higher, if you need to swap tires out at a later date. needing all 4 tires, (both front and rear) vs being able to just get new rear tires if you had a 2wd tractor. there are a lot of tire manufactures out there for tractor tires, many brand names charge 2 to 4 times as much as off brand tires.

if you are looking for chain's for tires, (dealing with mud, snow, ice) double check fender clearances. to make sure you can add them at a later date. i state this due to tires from different manufactures may have a slightly different diameter size.

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3pt stuff... if you get a backhoe with unit, you may not get lower lift arms or top link, (dealership trying to save costs) so those may be extra, along with check chains, check bars, sway chains / sway bars, draw bar, etc...

if you are using a box blade, rear blade, york rake / landscape rake, etc... a TNT (top and tilt) for 3pt hitch might be advised. the top link screw / turn buckle is replaced with a hydrulic cylinder, and then side link is replaced with a hyd cylinder as well. if you plan on possibly getting a TNT later down on road, it most likely cheaper to get the extra remotes installed now, before dealer delievers the tractor to you. for me a mini of 2 rear remotes suggested, possibly 3, if you have any implements / attachments for 3pt hitch that has hydraulics on it.

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3rd function valve for FEL (front end loader), if you plan to go with any sort of grabel bucket, or like.

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cab tractors, may not have a very good areas to mount a tool box, or run a bolt through some sort of frame to hang some 5 gallon buckets with tools in them. (holding extra bolts, pins, a couple wrenches, bailing wire, etc...) double check for the space.

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a lot of small options per say above, but it all adds up quickly in the cash department, putting a larger tractor with the options, out of budget vs a smaller tractor with all the options. many of those options come in extremely handy. and can make many tasks easier and quicker and over all less hassle to deal with, granted you still need enough HP to do various things. but..just saying. examples, manually picking up a bunch of tree limbs for using grapel bucket on FEL, or backhoe with thumb, to TNT for 3pt hitch, to upper front/rear work lights. to rear steering brakes, to other. if a lot of your time is spent moving stuff manually. and your time is worth $$$ those extra options may very well pay for themselves fairly quickly. if on other hand you have more time vs cash to sink into options...

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one last note... short small size wife, compared to you.... if ya want her to operate it, then ya both going to need to call around, and go physically seat and test drive tractors. all of them are different even from same manufacture. from how far seat pulls forward, to how far you need to reach for a lever / button / gas pedal/go pedal, to if steering wheel adjusts up/down. to using the brakes, and being to short to press them down all the way.

my suggestion, is figure out a half dozen to dozen models you are interested in. that comes close to your budget, both low, and even some over your budget. and then both of you taking a day trip, and go out and look at all the tractors. ((GPS + address listing + phone numbers)) and test drive them. www.tractorhouse.com and machinetrader.com granted many things on there site are used, they still due sell some new stuff on there. you can also find tractor dealers, might also suggest checking each tractor manufacture website for a listing of dealers as well. to get yourself some listings. i am going to suggest a single day trip, so you can get over a large hassle and bussle of trying to get yourself and wife together and get things done. and trying to remember this or that from a previous trip from a week or 2 ago. it will all be fresh in your mind. no need to buy or get prices that day, it is more of a learning experience, of what is available and what will work for you. if it means taking a day off from regular working job. figure a few hundred bucks lost in income due to day off from regular job, vs overall cost saved buying something that works better long term for ya,. *shrugs* to note it when i mean day trip, start before sun comes up, and driving even if it means 3 to 4 hours away from your home and hitting as many dealers / tractors as you can.
 
   / Yet another guy looking for a mid/compact Ag tractor (lots 'O details)...
  • Thread Starter
#13  
@MotownBrowne: She's a big part of why I am looking at something easier to operate.

@Boggen: All excellent points. The grapple bucket is one of the reasons I am looking to make a change. I could theoretically add a 3rd function to the front of mine, but so far I cannot find anything to spec out for my machine that is supported. Too old, I guess. Also not sure the hydraulics would support it.

I do weld, and bucket hooks are on the list one way or the other. I added them to the current bucket, but still wrap just to take up the extra chain length. Space in the cab is something I am looking for. I have a galv steel box on my current fender and use it daily. So I'm looking for interior space, and somewhere to hang stuff on the outside. I tend to put buckets into the bucket, so it'd be nice to hang them instead.

As for my tiny wife, we always rent an Asian car when we travel through airports, for a reason. US made cars tend to not let the seats inch up quite as high as she needs, and sometimes the posterior side of the seat swallows her up. She plain cannot see out of the front of many 4-door US domestic cars. Rather than try to learn all the US models that might work, we just tell them, "anything Korean or Japanese." It works. She had to walk from buying a car she really wanted, because they couldn't adjust her seats without breaking some warranties.

Along those lines, I saw some complaints that the Korean-made Kioti was designed by small persons, for small persons. I guess those folks don't realize Koreans can get pretty tall! I'm only 5' 6" myself, so the good news is if something fits her, it won't be too small for me. We'll see. Some decisions fall into place without regard for the spec sheets. Reaching the pedals is probably one of them. :)

I am heading out a day this week to check some options out, I think. Also looking at other-than-tractor options.

Thanks again. Lots of good advice and insight there.
 

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