Buying Advice Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks.

   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #31  
Just my opinion here, I own a BX, but a BX is designed for someone that wants a riding mower as much as they want a tractor. A B sized machine can also be used with a mid-mount mower but its a little larger. It doesn't sound like you really want it for finish mowing so I'd recomend a B sized machine. One thing that has suprised me with my BX is probably half of my hours are using the tractor for other than finish mowing, mostly end loader work.
 
   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #32  
I just don't like the difficulty is attaching the hydraulic hoses all the time. (Anyone know any secrets regarding the "quick disconnects" that are not very quick for me?).

Steve, PM sent.
 
   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks.
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Just left the Massey dealer again. Got prices on the 1726 and 1734. $2000 difference between the two, but a ten engine HP and 8 PTO HP difference. Same frame, same engine, same loader, same 3 point lift capacity. I emailed the Kubota sales person and am awaiting a return call for her price on a similar tractor. I can foresee one response of "BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR" already but I am wondering if the smallest of the next step up is big enough to suffice versus buying too big...ok, that's not possible, but still...
 
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   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #34  
MF SPECS: TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 1726E tractor dimensions information

Reasonable tractor weight, reasonable power/emission controls, reasonable three-range HST.


But distance to dealer..........

The nearest dealer is one hour away, and the closest are Kubota, Deere, and Branson. The nearest New Holland dealer is at least a five hour drive, and Kioti and Massey Ferguson are around two and a half hours.

All this research is time and effort well spent.
 
   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #35  
The nearest of any dealer is one hour away, and the closest are Kubota, Deere, and Branson. The nearest New Holland dealer is at least a five hour drive, and Kioti and Massey Ferguson are both around two and a half hours. I have attended all the first three dealers and don't have a personal preference in the slightest. I am fearing the BX25 will be too small due to ground clearance, and PTO lifting ability. Unfortunately the B2601 is currently out of the budget.

Regardless of brand, stretch your budget and get a 'B' sized tractor (small compact) with big rear wheels and a solid iron engine/trans/rear from front to back. The BX-sized subcompacts are truly garden tractors on steroids - not just said pejoratively, but the construction is literally a big GT, with an engine connected to a transaxle using a driveshaft. The little rear wheels of the subs also greatly hurt their performance - while great for mowing grass, for 'real' tractoring tasks, they can't do half the work that a similar-sized compact can.
 
   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #36  
Strictly this man's opinion:

I would prefer 25-horsepower from a 100 cubic inch, normally aspirated L2501 engine over 25-horsepower from a 91 cubic inch turbocharged engine. I like everything mechanical simple, Simple, SIMPLE. I am often content to pay more for less.

Shibaura has reputation on T-B-N for high quality, reliable diesel engines, fully equal to Kubota.

Turbos are a net engine positive in tractor service over 6,000 feet in altitude.
 
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   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks.
  • Thread Starter
#37  
   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #38  
I am currently waiting on quotes for the B2601, B2650, and the L2501.

The two Bees/HST are 1,800 pounds, bare tractor; 77 cubic inch engines. During PTO work you will have the engines revved up and you will grow tired of the whine.

L2501/HST is 2,625 bare tractor. MF 1726/HST is 2,660 bare tractor. Some of the weight is thicker steel, which is stronger steel. Eight hundred fifty pounds is a BIG difference.

The Bees are too light for your tasks.


You will find this interesting: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ns/367317-new-kubota-l2501-slightly-used.html

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​
 
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   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #39  
I've got 40 acres and have about as demanding of tasks as most anyone with similar property. My B7800 has managed to do a LOT. I've run it for over 1,000 hours now. HST whine? Well, OK. Still gets the job done. Ballast in the wheels and I'm able to make it grunt to the max.

For what my B7800 cannot do I RENT the equipment. Mostly this has been for digging; backhoes work, but they can't touch the efficacy of an excavator. The astute reader will note that I just bought a Kioti NX5510HC; yes, I am rapidly increasing the size of my pastures and as such I need to have something that will be able to wheel around larger mowers: I am also ratcheting up my clearing activities- again, the B7800 is able to do just about everything (though I wanted more lift for heavier stuff), but since I'm getting older I need to pick up the pace- I need to get stuff done more quickly.

Keep in mind that tractors are, for the most parts, means of driving hydraulics and running attachments/tools. A bigger tractor w/o the attachments/tools is perhaps worse than a too-small tractor w/attachments-tools.

After my rotary brush cutter I'd have to say that the most effective add-ons to my tractor have been my bucket tooth bar ([obviously, my tractor came with an FEL] the tooth bar allows me to dig, snag and rip stuff) and getting ballast in the rear tires. My box blade then comes in as being the next best tool: I've ripped some pretty big roots with it- yes, chipping SLOWLY away, but it's done it- the unit is indestructible). Have a root rake, grading blade, sub soiler/middle-buster plow and 3pt pallet forks; all but the pallet forks have been used very infrequently.

A LOT depends on your timeframe. If you are in a hurry then rent the most efficient equipment (or hire out the job). Focus spending money on those things that will be higher-frequency on-going tasks.
 
   / Yet another new guy looking for a compact, subcompact tractor...he thinks. #40  
Steve1300, I think you already have your answer about making hydraulic connections, but in case not, just do this: with the tractor turned off, cycle thru the control valve(s) to relieve any pressure, and then make your connections. If your loader is off, sitting in the sun, then there may be some pressure built up there... but not so much you still can't pop the connectors together.
 

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