YM 1401 and RS1205 tiller plus YM135 questions

[bmaverick]

Thanks for the video. Now the questions is where can anyone find those lower pins for a 2 point tiller? I have the upper but now lower.

attached is the closest manual for your tiller model. It could help some.

RS1205 is originally meant for a YM1502D. The YM1401D would work fine with it too.

 

[California]

Note in Maverick's photos the half-fork down to the wheel axles is on the -outside- where it will gouge trees and fence posts. But that is the correct orientation.

If you mount the wheels smooth side out they cramp sideways and make ruts, and also slow down an underpowered tractor.

BTDT. After this experiment I turned the wheels smooth side in, no more ruts.

My little YM186D couldn't quite run this RS1400 tiller (sold together with YM2000 in Japan) until I got the wheels for depth control (thanks rmully!!). Because when the front of the tractor hit a sudden rise the tiller went too deep and sometimes brought me to a standstill. Now with the wheels on it, and turned smooth side in, it works perfectly.

Old thread about tillers, where I first posted that photo. You might find it interesting.

 

[David H]

Looks like you've found the reason why the 2-point tiller isn't supported by parts houses in the US. Nobody (?) runs them here. You have a 'unicorn', something unusual.

I think most would advise you to just add the 3-point kit to get that tractor into standard configuration. Unless you are a specialty rototilling contractor or something, which is how that semi-permanent tiller is used in Japan.

Most people want the convenience of how easy it is to swap implements using the the 3-point. And check out a quick hitch to make using the 3-point even simpler. HF's is the least expensive of the many brands that are all identical except the decals.

you do realize it literally takes the same amount of time to remove the two point hitch vs the 3 point right? people keep calling it "semi permanent" and it doesn't take any extra time to remove it. it's a PTO and 4 pings. To modify it to 3 point requires fabrication and lengthening the PTO shaft. why would I want to do that when the tractor is made for the current configuration.

 

[David H]

If you can't find the pins easily, I would make the pins. You might try a place such as McMaster Carr or Grainger for the right size material. I've bought a fair amount of metric rods off of Amazon recently.

I suspect that the two point rototiller will be pretty amazing when you get it running.

All the best,

Peter

I've considered that too but I didn't want to commit to buying it until my machinist looked at it. Talked to the guy and told him to sell it to someone else. He's got a guy driving 3 hours to look at it. These tractors are great but finding parts is a challenge. I still can't find a seat that will work for the YM135 I have.

 

[careyo63]

Purchased this one was From Fredricks. Last one they had at the time. Had to dig it out of a back Parts Warehouse. Gear driven model and not Chain. The chain stretches PITA. from what I've heard often. New Tines I've seen on Fredricks parts but that's about it. And this one had the Rear wheels removed. I found no need for them or look for replacements. I sold it after my mother moved back to her Hm. state. Her small Garden was what I bought it for. If it was previously tilled soil it worked very well. Rock hard Ga. Clay first turn was rough on it! Org. a Rice Patty tiller. Basically "mud" so wasn't built very well and the Tines Wear easily also. Most all the ones you see there pretty much worn out. Normal! Wrong PTO. shaft also that I had to shorten until they sent correct replacement. Hard Parts are pretty much are in nonexistence. RS.1401 which was the model the YM2000 was intended for.

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[David H]

Purchased this one was From Fredricks. Last one they had at the time. Had to dig it out of a back Parts Warehouse. Gear driven model and not Chain. The chain stretches PITA. from what I've heard often. New Tines I've seen on Fredricks parts but that's about it. And this one had the Rear wheels removed. I found no need for them or look for replacements. I sold it after my mother moved back to her Hm. state. Her small Garden was what I bought it for. If it was previously tilled soil it worked very well. Rock hard Ga. Clay first turn was rough on it! Org. a Rice Patty tiller. Basically "mud" so wasn't built very well and the Tines Wear easily also. Most all the ones you see there pretty much worn out. Normal! Wrong PTO. shaft also that I had to shorten until they sent correct replacement. Hard Parts are pretty much are in nonexistence. RS.1401 which was the model the YM2000 was intended for.

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ok but how does that help my post?

 

[careyo63]

Call Fredricks. Remember this?
These tractors are great but finding parts is a challenge.

 

[bmaverick]

I still can't find a seat that will work for the YM135 I have.

The YM135/YM155 seat can be found here, but don't get sticker shocked.

Yanmar YM155 Seat

Yanmar YM155 Black Vinyl Bucket Seat

www.jensales.com

 

[California]

Here's what the dealers of 'reconditioned' Yanmars were putting on. Dunno if it will fit your model.

COMPACT TRACTOR SEAT FOR YANMAR Fits Kubota Fits Ford Fits Massey ISEKI Fits Cas | eBay

Agriculture Parts for John Deere, for Ford/New Holland, for Case, for Massey Ferguson & More! • Black seat w/ mounting brackets and bolts. Mower Parts for Bad Boy, for Briggs & Stratton, for Cub Cadet, for Honda, for Sears, for Snapper & More!

www.ebay.com

 

[careyo63]

I have that seat! New seat when I bought it. Spalding put it on my Tractor 2008! A Fredricks supplied Reconditioned YM2500 also. Steve, Cool dude! The YM2000 seat is still in use today. SMDH. when I pulled this up, Use to Puff and Gag. on the Cigs!! see it!...........

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