YM 2000 Electrical (Starting,ect) PLEASE ADVISE

[rtd2]

Hello all,
I have a YM 2000 Got it as a rebuild with 10hrs on the meter. It has nearly 200 hrs. and besides reg. maint. I've not had any problem till now. Sunday I was cutting and all was weLl until my stupid self ran out of Fuel! Now this has happened once before and I primmed it and fired it up!

THIS TIME however it took a couple of times to prime and it nearly ran the battery dead before it fired off (New Die hard 650ccc ). Once it fired off I let it run about about 10 min and shut it off for the night. The next morning It wouldnt crank so I charged the battery about 6hrs. it fired up ran it about 30min. I Took my meter and i was getting 12.9-13.2 v @ 2200rmp.

I shut it off Battery showed 12.3v tried to star it 20 min. later and and NOTHING! Not even a click! I have a meter but Im more comfortable in mechanical problems than electrical! what else can i do U? I know the 75 datsun Alt/regulator is avail @ O'rielys for 30-35$ each but I want to make sure I'm not missing something. Thanks for any advice

 

[winston1]

The 12.9-13.2v indicates an ok charge. Did you check battery voltage at end when there was not even a click? Sometimes batterys just short a cell out and they are finished. If you have 12.3v or better and nothing you may need to consider the starter could be smoked. If you get nothing put your volt meter on the small wire on the starter and see if you get 12.3v or so when the ignition is turned to crank position. If so and the solenoid doesn't kick in give it a little bump. Your going to have to do some trouble shooting to find the problem.

 

[284 International]

Winston gave really good advice for diagnosing the starter solenoid.

It's a possibility that you're experiencing a gremlin unrelated to everything else. The clutch safety switch may be faulty. Winston mentioned checking the voltage at the solenoid, that may also indicate your key switch is bad. My YM2000 doesn't, but some tractors have a switch that won't let the machine start if the PTO is engaged.

Check the terminals and cable connections for the battery, too.

 

[rtd2]

Thank you both! I went out after eating and tried it and NOW its Clicking again? took advice abouve and some readings with my meter. Thought i share to maybe give some more insight. unfortunatly I'm just more CONFUSED!
Battery with no key 12.77v
Battery with key turned to crank 12.22v
Small wire at starter without key 12.76v
Small wire at starter with key to crank 0.44v ??
Also read in another thread about jumping from small terminal on stater to large nut I did with a screwdrivier and got a spark/click.

I checked voltage at ignition switch and its 12.75v with no key and .046v at crank ?? Lights work fine, No known clutch safety switch as I've accidently bumped starter while in gear and it turned over just fine also dont see any wiring or switch in the area of my clutch lever.

I double checked pto its in "N" but i think it will crank in gear as well. I'm at a loss on how it was running Perfect prior to me running out of fuel. I'm probally missing something simple but like I said I more of a bolt off/on person than electrical. Guess these leaves checking battery cables which I will do tomorrow! any other ideas please fire away! thank you !

 

[MJPetersen]

be sure to clean both ends of the battery cables. Sometimes the problem is not the battery connections themselves, but rather the frame/engine ground end or the starter cable end.

By only getting a click when jumping the small starter terminal with the battery cable connection to the starter, you can rule out the starter switch as the problem. normally if it were a switch it would crank by jumping the terminals on the starter.

From the sounds of it, your problem is most likely simply dirty battery terminal connections.

Mike

 

[rtd2]

Thanks Mike, They look fine but i know looks dont mean a thing! I'm going to clean them real good tomorrow and inspect them for cracking,corrosion ,ect.

 

[284 International]

I think you're on your way to fixing this. Since jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver didn't get the starter to turn, you aren't getting enough power to the starter motor. Check all your cables and connections, first. If you have a set of jumper cables, or a boost setting on your charger, try starting it using the extra amperage.

I think running out of fuel was just the root source of a heavier than normal load on the starting electrical system (when you cranked it for an extra long time), not otherwise related.

 

[rtd2]

I think you're on your way to fixing this. Since jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver didn't get the starter to turn, you aren't getting enough power to the starter motor. Check all your cables and connections, first. If you have a set of jumper cables, or a boost setting on your charger, try starting it using the extra amperage.

I think running out of fuel was just the root source of a heavier than normal load on the starting electrical system (when you cranked it for an extra long time), not otherwise related.

Makes perfect sense on the fuel issue. also Great Idea on boost I will try that if all connections check good. I'll post back tomorrow thanks everyone!

 

[irvingj]

Ever since I had this problem, I tell everyone I can-- the ground strap on my GC broke, just with age (100+ hrs) and vibration. It pretty much shut everything down, and is easy to miss. Check it!

I chased mine around for quite a while --with some weird meter readings-- before I found it, thanks to a tip from another TBN member.:thumbsup:

 

[ppags]

One thing I would consider is hand cranking the engine to make sure it turns over, if it hydra locked that starter will not crank it. That will eliminate one possibility! Does your unit have a compression release? Another thing would be to load test the battery, I have seen them read good voltage and tank out as soon as you load them. battery voltage should be minimum 12.6 (2.1 volts per cell x 6 cells) 13.2 @2200 RPM sounds minimum to me,( charging voltage is usually 13.2-14.6) I would expect that voltage closer to 1500 RPM, but, if the battery was fully charged when you took that reading than it probabely wasn't drawing that much off of the alternator. Good luck, hope you get 'er fixed!