YM 2000 Electrical (Starting,ect) PLEASE ADVISE

[rtd2]

Depends on the solenoid, but I used to take the one on my 72 Chevy Blazer apart and clean its contacts; not too hard. (It was built into the starter mtor.)

Going back to California's tests-- another easier way to do a quick starter motor check is to turn headlights on and see if they dim when the key's switched to "start."

Starter motors draw a ton of amps, and if it's getting juice, the lights will dim significantly. No dimming means the motor's not sucking any juice, so you start tracing the ignition circuit, beginning with solenoid.

Good luck!

Thanks thats a good tip I missed. I will do that and see what happens.

From what you have written I would say that your problem is the solenoid (or the connection to it), Make sure you have a good connection to the solenoid from the switch and if that does not do it, take the solenoid off. If it comes apart then clean the contacts, if not then you may be able to just replace it. Inside will be two terminal contacts, a spring and a disk attached to a shaft that is pulled by the electric magnet coil. The coil draws the shaft until the disk hits both contacts (battery and starter motor), [if either contact has a small tit, that may be enough to keep the disk from contacting the second contact.] The mechanical movement of the shaft and disk also moves the starter bendix into engagement with the flywheel. By tapping on the solenoid you are moving the disk slightly so that the "tit" falls into a depression and therefore allowing the solenoid to make contact--or jiggles the shaft which may be binding in the coil.

Just a brief definition of what is going on inside where you cannot see. And an explanation of what may be happening.

Mike

Wow great explanation! thanks I will recheck connection at solenoid, test lights for dim on start ect. then try to clean it or replace. I Didnt get a chance to work on It today... thanks again EVERYONE for the help!

 

[Pete Judd]

I had the same problem on a Yanmar YSM 12 years ago. Because it was a marine motor, the selinoid was a held together with through rivets. And sealed. I found that I had a spare that came with the boat, and that saved me 85 bucks at the time. On that motor I could also crank start it.

 

[Car Doc]

I checked voltage at ignition switch and its 12.75v with no key and .046v at crank ??


Lights work fine

The batt voltage should not go below about 10.5v cranking a good starter so this tells me its a bad connection somewhere and its most likely at the battery you are simply loosing current, IE voltage is easy to move amps is hard. Clean the batt terms first. btw

I bet the lights go clear out rather than dim when its turned to crank am I right?

One more thing to check is for heat at the various connections that is usually a dead giveaway of a bad connection try starting it a few times and carefully put a finger on all the connections. hth

 

[rmully]

One thing to consider is the battery might be putting out 13+v but maybe not enough amperage to crank the engine. Check the water level as this heat wave we have been having can cause havoc on batteries.

 

[rtd2]

Sorry to drag this on but we had several days of rain (About 14" worth!) from T.S. Lee....I got back to the starter thursday and took it to Autozone to test it to narrow bad down Starter/Solenoid or both?
Employee said " it failed the test....its locked up" interesting i can turn the gear and it spins freely? Not satisfied with that test I returned home and decided to take the starter completly apart to inspect for burnt/broken wires. No broken wires but It was Very dirty so I clean it really good and put it back on and it started like a NEW one! I tired it 5 or 6 times each time it cranked right up! That was yesterday......Today I went to crank it....faint click feel solenoid its very warm. starter is air temp not warm at all. recheck connections and voltage...all good.
I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a Solenoid I can get one at the parts store but it's a 65.00 gamble cause its only exchangable...Thanks all for the input and help on this. If anybody has any ideas/advice i'm all ears!! I'm attaching a photo of the starter AFTER i cleaned it...sorry i forgot to take picture before i cleaned it.... I will update results of solenoid..

 

[irvingj]

Nice picture! Next time you have it off and apart....

Those copper strips on the end of the starter shaft must be clean --shiny clean-- and have no "wipe-overs" from one strip to the next. Some emery paper or fine sandpaper can clean the copper up nicely, but try not to remove too much material. A solvent may work well here, too. Same for the brushes- make sure they're not carboned over excessively.

A pick or something similar run between the strips can ensure that there's no bridge connection between them; if that happens, the starter may "lock up" and overheat due to a situation that's essentially like a short. Try not to remove the laquer insulation between the strips. IFIRC, I've used a popsicle stick for this in the past.

If you had a starter shop nearby, they could test the rotor to be certain that all the windings are still intact; if any of them are shorted or open, the starter's pretty much history. (You might want to check around for such a shop, to eliminate some trial & error.)

As far as the solenoid goes, if it pulls in OK when the elctromagnet's energized and the contacts that feed the starter are in good shape, there's not too much more to it, other than mechanical wear & sloppiness...

Have faith! I kept the original starter in my 72 Blazer (307 V-8) going for over 30 years with an occasional tear-down, clean-up and throwing a small glob of grease in the endbells for the rotor shaft....:thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

You need a starter armature tester called a "growler" to determine if its bad an automotive or truck shop may have one. It will be under a pile of dirt but we all used to have them until the throwaway days arrived.

Check around for a starter re-builder in your area let him check it before throwing parts at it you cant return.

 

[California]

That's a Hitachi or Denso starter, no?

I'll bet the clerk at Autozone can match it by eye and will tell you the solenoid is same as mid 80's Nissan or something. There can't be very many alternatives for a starter solenoid from Japan. Yanmar used off-the-shelf stuff, apparently to make it easier to find parts wherever you are in the world.

If the clerk recognizes the solenoid, he may have it, or may have an inexpensive rebuild kit for it.

 

[rtd2]

That's a Hitachi or Denso starter, no?

I'll bet the clerk at Autozone can match it by eye and will tell you the solenoid is same as mid 80's Nissan or something. There can't be very many alternatives for a starter solenoid from Japan. Yanmar used off-the-shelf stuff, apparently to make it easier to find parts wherever you are in the world.

If the clerk recognizes the solenoid, he may have it, or may have an inexpensive rebuild kit for it.

First Off thanks everyone for the input I have just a few more thoughts ideas I would greatly appreciate ya'lls input on..

California from your post above I agree I believe its the original Hitachi (S114-146) Starter Although I havent found any markings on it to confirm. I've found that Several Local parts stores that carry an Identical Solenoid and its from a 1981 Nissan 200SX 2.0L (See photo below) NOW HERE's where things get interesting...
The Solenoid ranges between 50-60 bucks depending on the store (Autozone,Oreillys,Napa,advanced) ALL in my area show it as not in stock...SPECIAL ORDER. Funny thing is They stock a starter (Hitachi Reman) for the '81 200SX for 34.99!! (+10.00 core which i would pay) w/Lifetime Wty

Thought....
Can I just buy the starter for 34.99 (+ core) carefully remove the solenoid and see if it works on mine??
Also, The 200SX Starter is a Perfect match except the Starter Drive is 9teeth vs. Yanmars 15 teeth drive...this may be a Rookie question but is it possible to put my 15 tooth drive on the new starter?
Finally (I Promise ) there is so much good info and advice in this thread I've re-read through it several times re-checking wires, connections but one thing I have'nt been able to do that was suggested is inspect/clean the existing solenoid does it come apart cause if so I need the secret to get it apart? ... Thanks for the help

 

[California]

Three are lots of ways to approach this. If that Nissan starter is also 1.4kw (amperage, 'horsepower') then you might ask a local auto-electric shop what it would cost to tear down each starter and swap the gears. Or just buy the correct rebuilt starter (or new, replica) from Hoye, or off ebay. I'm not sure you would save much by swapping parts.

On my YM240 (YM2000) someone had already put the wrong starter on it, similar but intended for a later Yanmar-engine Deere. The only practical difference was that the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid had been extended a few inches to reach the solenoid terminal lower down.

When I eventually replaced that starter I stepped up from 1.4kw to 2.0kw for a couple of dollars extra. I found this on ebay described as
'NEW STARTER YANMAR ENGINE 3TN78L 171353-77010 AT110818'. It is a perfect fit (after the extended solenoid wire) and works great. The engine spins like mad. It starts instantly and feels like it would even in in a blizzard.