YM 2220D too narrow

[Zoster]

I just brought home my "new" baby: a reconditioned YM 2220D with 550hrs, a FEL and a backhoe, and a very skookum looking 'ROPS' ..er.. lightbar. She is quite nice.
I have swapped the rear wheels to allow for a wider 'stance' because most of my place has varying degrees of slope to it, but it still doesn't feel very stable. Is there something like an extension of sorts, to mount the rear wheels farther apart?
Thanks

 

[dpetty]

Yes I have the same opinion, I have a 1500 series and it is to narrow. I also have a Deutz and it is wider but I have hilly ground and some places it is hard for the Deutz to get into due to trees, etc. I am looking at adding duals to mine to make it more stable, right now I am careful how I turn on a hillside. One other point these tractors are really meant for the rice fields not hills.

david

 

[YanmarFever]

Try liquid in the rear tires, that always does it for me.
calsium,washer fluid,beet juice ect...
Ernie

 

[Zoster]

Thanks David and Ernie.
You're right, seems we always want to do a lot more than just rototill ricefields. I do have Calcium chloride in the tires, it's just that on my old Kubota (which at 55hp is really much too big for my place) I sit low between the rear wheels, wheres on the Yanmar I seem to sit on top of them.
Hope that wannabe ROPS is as tough as it looks.

Herbert

 

[yanmah]

YOu can swap those wheels, and I think you can even move the inner part of the wheel out/in another couple of inches. Mines a grey mkt. and it has two sets of mounts on the inside of the wheel. I swapped mine, and I can really go off camber, and I dont even have fluid in them.

 

[Zoster]

You may have two-piece rims, which allow you several mounting options. Mine are one-piece rims and all I can do is swap them, which I have already done.
Herbert

 

[ridgetop]

I had a local machine shop make 2-inch spacers for the rear wheels of my 1510D. Cost $130, machined from solid steel. 2" longer bolts from a bolt supply store cost about $20. The tractor feels much more "planted" on my hilltop.

Was going to fill the tires, but would rather not have the extra weight when crossing the lawn when it is soft. Have searched this forum and not found anyone else using spacers. Is there some reason why they are a bad idea?

 

[mark777]

ridgetop,
I can't think of a single reason why that would be a problem. Anything that enhances the stability of your tractor (especially on a slope) IMO is a good idea. BTW, welcome to TBN.
Mark

 

[LMTC]

There were actually spacer/hubs used on some YMs in Japan for duals. Customer of ours recently bought a set from Dave in CA. I see no reason they couldn't be made easily by a competent fabricator with access to minimal tools. But then, I am not a competent fabricator, so maybe there is a reason /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[ridgetop]

Thanks for the welcome, mark777. I've been following your thread about fabricating a ROPS for our tractors with interest. I decided to try wheel spacers because getting a ROPS was so problematic, and if the added stability will prevent a roll-over in the first place thats better than just preventing injury. Careful operation and awareness of hazards is always necessary.

Anyway, the spacers have worked very well for me

 

[Zoster]

Ridgetop,
I think your spacer idea is great, and simple. I have to pursue that further. Thanks

Herbert

 

[California]

Attached - drawing of the dual wheel spacer for YM195/YM240 (YM1700/YM2000). I think they intend it for use along with an inner wheel rather than as a spacer for Singles.

Source: Optional Equipment chapter of the operation manual.

 

[jdmar]

Here is a photo of a "spacer" of sorts that I use on my 1500. Mine was made to convert to different wheels with a different bolt pattern. But I am sure you could do the same idea simpler with just one set of holes and longer wheel bolts. How much it will help with stability I can not say...talk to a physics guy for that! I do use mine on some farely angled hills and feel very stable.

Peter

 

[jdmar]

A view from between the wheels.

 

[jdmar]

From the outside. My adapters "nestle" close to the tractor hub and new rims and have a ledge for making it easier to mount the rims. You/your machinist could make them much thicker for your use.

Peter

 

[HoyeTractor]

We were thinking about producing some spacers because of the demand for them. We talked to an engineer that pointed out that, these numbers might be way off but it has been over a year, for every 1/2" you move the wheels out you will double the stress on the axle and axle housing. I'm sure that there is an engineer on this board that can clarify this. Souldn't be a problem though unless you have a heavy implement on rough ground.

Aaron,
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)438-0386

 

[jdmar]

OK, so now you are scarring me. Mine only offset the rims by about 1.5 inches....less and the adapters may not be strong enough. Hopefully I am not hurting my little tractor. I am not an engineer but it seems strange this would happen when others put duals of these things. Maybe the duals are still bearing weight close to the tractor and only really gaining traction on the outer tires....hmmm I am just nowhere near smart enough to figure this one out.....
Help!!!..lets get an engineer!! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Peter

 

[ridgetop]

I second the motion for getting an engineer's opinion on spacers. Mechanics at the dealer were I bought my tractor told me that they had a customer who is an engineer, and he had made spacers for his tractor that are 5" or 6" thick, and had had no problems. I recall seeing many farm tractors with very wide-spaced wheels when I was a kid in the mountains of western NC, and never heard of a problem.

I tried reversing the front wheels and it didn't add that much stability (because of the articulated axle) but did make the steering much harder so I returned them to the normal position. I'm certain that spacers will add some stress to the rear axles and housing, but I suspect that they are substantially overbuilt with ample margins to handle it. With my 2" spacers the rear track on my 1510D is about 47", which is still a bit less than the track on most built-for-the-US compact tractors in the same size range, and the Yanmar seems to be more robust and better designed and constructed than most. I don't have a front-end loader, but do carry some heavy loads on the carry-all on the 3-point hitch, but at slow speeds and with no bouncing over rough ground.

In the worst case sceniario I think I'd rather bust an axle or housing than to roll the tractor over onto myself. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Zoster]

Hi all!
I just love this forum. All kinds of ideas, all kinds of opinions, experiences, concerns. All through posting a simple question. All this wisdom is exactly what a rookie tractorist like me needs.
I think I'll put some more stress on those rear axles and put some kind of spacers on. Most of my hillside work is simple harrowing, so not too strenuous for the Yanmar but it would make me (feel) safer.
Thanks again to everybody.

Herbert

 

[htiek126]

What is the distance between the inner and outer bearing centers for the rear axle? The inner bearing will experience a greater load, the outer bearing should experience the same load, and the axle will see a greater bending moment. On the 1510, the axle is about 2" diameter and 6" from outer bearing to wheel center. A 2" increase in length will increase the bending moment (Moment=ForcexDistance) by 33%.

Assume the rear axle steel is 40,000 PSI steel (standard grade steel). The area of the 2" axle is 3.14 square inches, so that works out to 125,600 pounds of force to fail. Assume the full weight of the 1510 (1250 pounds) with an attachment (400 pounds) all balanced on the one rear wheel with a safety margin of 2, that is 3,300 pounds. Now multiply by the distance to get the bending moment: 8" x 3,300 pounds = 26,400 pounds. The rear axle is still 5 times stronger then that maximum load.

Disclaimer: I am not a structural or mechanical engineer...