Buying Advice YM1600

[romoshka]

My father-in- law is a collector of the post-depression era type. We recently purchased the house/property that he lived in prior to moving into the city and the extensive "collection" of stuff remains and will do so (IAW the agreement) as long as he wishes it to. Among the 'stuff' is a Yanmar 1600 which is complete but has not run in the 3 years that I have known him and his daughter (my new bride) . In the brief research I have done on this tractor it appears as if it is quite old and not a model that was sold new in the US. Is this correct? But my real question is if I undertake to return this machine to functional status will parts be available?

 

[careyo63]

Welcome!
Hoye who's add is at the top should have it all. Just click on parts and 1600. There the biggest parts dist. I'm just next door in Ga. Even though your in SC. Steve at Spalding would be the Closest Reputable Dealer. Fredricks Equipment is in Al. also Biggest US importer. Delt with them on equipment and parts. Between them all parts and support shouldn't be an issue. If it hasn't run in yrs. Change the Oil and filter. Replace the Fuel and Fuel filter and bleed the Lines. Change the Air Filter. Make sure the battery is good and my bet it Runs. After getting use to it your love it. :thumbsup:

 

[romoshka]

Hey - thanks for the response. I am completely ignorant of diesel but have some friends with diesel knowledge and one that is a Caterpillar certified, school trained, honest injun diesel mechanic so I hope I can him involved.

Have noted the dealers you have mentioned

Thanks again

Steve

 

[284 International]

If the tractor worked when it was stored, it will work again. Change the fluids, lube everything, bleed the fuel system, then install a new battery and fire it up. It will run. The 1600 is generally less desirable, I have read, and parts availability isn't reportedly as good, but it is a matter of perspective and definitions: Walmart or any auto parts store will have the fluids and oil filter you need. Air filters are readily available from Hoye, LMTC, and others. Belts are belts, and there isn't a water pump to go bad. The generator is readily convertible to an alternator, but electricity is only used to turn the starter motor, so a charging system isn't even necessary. Tires are tires. The clutch and major engine parts (bearings, pistons injectors, pump, etc) are interchangeable with the YM2000, possibly the best supported gray market tractor around, as is the hydraulic pump.

So, from my perspective, what is there to go wrong? Internal transmission gears perhaps? Physical breakage of a casting? Those would seem to pretty much end the usefulness of the tractor beyond financially feasible repair,
whatever make or model of 30 year old machine.

If it was functional or at all close, you should be able to get the machine up and working for a few hundred dollars. A wise person would budget an extra hundred or two and get the radiator professionally redone.

 

[California]

Only 3 years since it ran? If FIL used it up til then, just charge (or jump) the battery and it will start right up. It doesn't know it's been 3 years. Diesels don't have the parts which are troublesome on a gas engine.

Changing the oil and filter are a good idea after you determine it runs properly. Beyond that, it shouldn't need anything more than what its maintenance schedule calls for.

I would definitely begin the start process by cranking using the compression release (in front of your left knee on similar models - take a look at the linkage from the engine) until the oil light goes out. This is to circulate oil with no compression stress, and also to assure that any moisture is purged from the cylinders.

Then try the Thermostart (manifold heater) for a few seconds. Either crank the key left or (old models) press the TS button on the dash. Then Yanmar says set full throttle, crank it, and pull back to 1500 rpm as soon as it fires.

That thing may look abandoned but I'll bet it will simply resume life where it left off.

 

[romoshka]

Thanks for the response - not sure if FIL ever used it or how long since it last ran as it may be just another piece of his ever-growing 'collection" of stuff. I have delayed talking to him about it until I determine if its worth the effort or should I look to return-to-service one of the other 3 tractors that adorn the back lot.

Your advice is printed and will use it when/if I get permission to work on it.

Thanks again

Steve

 

[284 International]

What are your other options for fixer-uppers?

If the tractor complete, and is of a reasonable size for your tasks and implements, it seems worth investigating tonput into service. Family dynamics are a whole different animal, and I have no input on that.

 

[California]

... Family dynamics are a whole different animal, and I have no input on that.

Amen bro. I read of the 'collection' Romoshka is facing and shuddered with flashbacks. Clearing out the estates of my Dad, inlaws, then Mom exhausted most of my remaining sanity.

Literally - I'm not exaggerating - there are several charities who have told me they can't use another trailerload of the stuff I've tried to donate to them. I've been moving Dad's stuff out of the ranch for 12 years now and I still bring back a carload of things I can't use from there on some weeks. He had inherited the estates of at least three Depression-survivor hoarders that I know of, brought it *all* to the ranch, never discarded anything. A true child of the Depression. All low-value stuff; my favorite used-tool store won't take any more items in trade on their stuff that I could use. In the early years I discarded junk like rolls of insulation stored under the house contaminated with ivy and mouse nests that went to the dump. I even bought a trailer specifically to begin the ranch cleanout. (photo). After finally making some free space I was down to stuff of some minimal value like dozens of spark plug sockets and spokeshaves, where it was worth the trouble to sort and keep a few. I'm still working off the stock of light bulbs. I kept the stuff I thought I might eventually use, for example for the first time Saturday I opened a cigar box labelled 'Sprayer Parts - 1983' and found the exact spray tip I needed to replace one that shot off into the weeds.

Romoshka: heed my warning - even if you are bound to not discard stuff now, at least sort out the few keepers to get a head start on the process. Doing that at the inlaws, I found several uncashed checks for insurance overpayments etc. so I actually was helping them, as I went through all the junk they had moved off the dining table to ever-growing sliding piles in the garage. For Mom, I years ago agreed to help clean out her house every few years if she authorized an explicit budget of not over $50 of 'treasures' lost or mistakenly given away. She only called my bluff once, and the item I was accused of giving away turned up at the next housecleaning. After she was gone it only took 10 months to get all the stuff out of there to the recipients she had designated for each item. I don't envy you ...

 

[romoshka]

As to presorting the 'collection': if the F-I-L didn't return several times a week to survey and search for that 1983 sprayer tip or some similarly obscure item I might be able to do some sorting but since he does, I can't. :laughing:

Now I am am doing some general clearing of various "piles" and in moving some "things' to the back corner of the property I stumbled (I continually stumble onto new things as he keeps bringing stuff) onto a Yanmar RS1200 tiller that looks to be in pretty good shape - will this implement attach to the 1600 as is or will it require some mods. (I have a full machine shop and am a competent welder.)

There are 3 other tractors back there also. 1 is a Farmall 100 but I can't tell what the other 2 are. Is it permissible to post photos and ask for ID help and whether they are worth trying to return to service?

 

[Johndeere3720]

As to presorting the 'collection': if the F-I-L didn't return several times a week to survey and search for that 1983 sprayer tip or some similarly obscure item I might be able to do some sorting but since he does, I can't. :laughing:

Now I am am doing some general clearing of various "piles" and in moving some "things' to the back corner of the property I stumbled (I continually stumble onto new things as he keeps bringing stuff) onto a Yanmar RS1200 tiller that looks to be in pretty good shape - will this implement attach to the 1600 as is or will it require some mods. (I have a full machine shop and am a competent welder.)

There are 3 other tractors back there also. 1 is a Farmall 100 but I can't tell what the other 2 are. Is it permissible to post photos and ask for ID help and whether they are worth trying to return to service?

Sounds like a fun place to me. :laughing: The tiller should already fit the Yanmar, in fact I bet it came with that tractor when he bought it. The last question, well lets just say people around here LOVE it when you post pictures of tractors. :laughing: I will even post a picture of the old Yanmar YM169D I used to have, it was the best first tractor i could have asked for. :thumbsup:

 

[California]

As John said, that tiller matches your YM1600.

One point that may not be obvious: Most 3-point implements you might use (mower etc) use a standard top link, but Yanmar's tillers use a special short top link that goes half way forward to meet a temporary 'bridge' attached where the front end of a normal top link attaches. You might look around (or ask FIL) to be sure you have both types. That special tiller top link is hard to replace.

And again as John said - we love photos. I don't think anyone minds if you start in this forum. Title a new thread something like "What model tractor is this?" and the whole site will pour in here with well intentioned advice - probably including invitations to come post more photos in the Farmall forum etc.

 

[romoshka]

As I search for data on the 1600 in the barn I see few references to a plain 1600 - more often it is a 1600D - I can find no references to differences between the 1600 and the 1600D - what does the D designate?

 

[scottlw]

On all yanmars the "D" is for four wheel drive.

 

[romoshka]

Thanks scott

 

[romoshka]

OK!!! Fired off the 1600 and it ran well - only ran it for a minute or 2 as the oil in crankcase is BLACK and a little overfull. So gonna change oil, filter, and put fresh fuel in it. Air filter looks new. FIL has some manuals "somewhere" and while we are hunting can someone give me data on proper oil and filter? Also need a battery but the higher amp start circuit on the charger did the trick.

 

[California]

As my kids would say, Yay!!!!!


Oil filter NAPA/Wix 1334. It's the standard for most Hondas and Subarus, and used on many other Japanese cars, so available everywhere.

Oil: Anything that says for Diesel and 15W40 weight. Buy a gallon but stop pouring after 2/3 and watch the dipstick to finish up.

Battery: largest that will fit the space, if you don't have to pay much extra for a larger size. (and you could rotate it around to the larger tractors as you experiment with them). These little Yanmars all need ballast in the nose, and a bigger battery than specified will probably get you a couple more years use.

If that old fuel will start readily I would just use it up, not purge it. I would look at the fuel filter bowl, but not remove it unless you see water in the bottom. (Because purging air from the fuel system is a nuisance that you don't need to get into.) As I said, the tractor doesn't know its been 3 years and should simply run as if there wasn't a long storage period. I assume it was parked out of the weather. If it was outdoors then there is a possibility of water in the transmission and the steering box. Its easy to replace the transmission fluid and clean its 'filter' (wire screen). The steering box not so much.

 

[romoshka]

Thanks Cali - it has been under cover but I really have no idea what its life was before I met the new bride 3 years ago so I will change the fluids. The FIL says that the hitch had a problem in that it would go up but not down. After the battery and new oil I will tackle that issue and before I put it to use. FIL says he bought some parts for that problem but like the manuals we will have to find em. Smart guy - Mech Eng - but he has WAY too much stuff to keep up with.

Cali - Since you have taken on the task of my tutor and I am not too far off of Eddie Albert from Green Acres - can you explain (or give me a link - google had been no help) the difference between a 2 and a 3 point hitch? I have looked at all the tractors and if I see things correctly it appears as if the 3rd point is connected to the lift mechanism vs a stationary link on the 2 point but I really want to understand.

 

[California]

Well until somebody comes along who actually knows something ...

3-point was introduced on the Ford/Ferguson tractors of the late 30's and soon became the universal standard for farm tractors everywhere. Category 1, 2, 3 describe how much they can lift. (and cat 0 for garden tractors). Yanmars are cat 1, maybe some of the big ones are cat 2.

2-point re Yanmars is proprietary, for tractors in Japan that will have their tiller attached for the life of the tractor. Instead of lifting the tiller with 3-point lower arms, the tiller itself attaches near where 3-point arms would normally be.

A conversion kit to add 3-point components to a 2-point Yanmar is about $200 from Hoye.

Ok, that's it more or less. Somebody else probably can describe 2-point better.

 

[284 International]

Some of the older International machines came with what they called Fast Hitch, a two point style hitch. It's set up with lower links kind of similar to the hitch receiver tube on an automobile, but narrower. A male, barbed prong on the implement slides into each lower link and clicks into place. The advertised advantage was the ability to back up to the implement, click in, lift and drive away, without ever getting off the tractor. The Fast Hitch doesn't have a top link, the male/female connection adds the rigidity to the system.

The three point is now the standard, common system. Two lower lift arms attach to pins on the implement and provide lifting force. A top link, usually adjustable, connects the top of the implement to the tractor, and provides rigidity to the system, allowing the implement to raise at the rear as well as the front.

As California described, the two point system on Japanese compacts like your Yanmar is basically two lifting rods that lift the body of a tiller and a central connection at or near the PTO. There are different styles, some attach to a bracket on the rear of the tractor, others bolt directly onto the transmission housing.

Some, like the YM2000, have a hybrid setup where a very short rigid top link bracket attaches to the tractor, and a shorter link provides limited articulation for the top of the implement, a way to closely couple the tiller for increased maneuverability.

I don't know what the YM1600 came with for a factory tiller attachment, but, as California said, conversion parts are readily available to construct a standard 3 point hitch. If you have the implements, I see no reason why your YM 1600 wouldn't work fabulously with Fast Hitch implements for a Cub.

 

[romoshka]

Well we are making progress - new battery is in and despite FIL telling me that it charges but has a short that pulls the battery down and his solution was to disconnect the battery between uses it became apparent after 1 minute with a multimeter that it is not charging - 12.6v despite the RPMs. So off to the local rebuilder to see if they can rebuild it burqat my question is there an off the shelf equivalent perhaps for some small Japanese car?

Think we have figured out why the hitch wont go down - there are what looks like 2 pistons in the hydraulic valve under the seat that gt depressed when the shift leaver is ithe up position and one is stuck in. despite some break free and brass drift tapping around the housing it remains stuck. Four bolts hold the cover and it looks like that will be required to be removed to free that plug/pisTon. my question is what springs and other potential "gotchas" are gonna jump out at me?

FIL is looking for the manuals that he says he has.