ym1602

[Mcfly89]

any ideas on the approximate value of a ym1602. this tractor seems to be in pretty decent shape, has a yanmar tiller and a class 1, 3 point conversion with it. tires are weathercracked, but still hold air and have LOTS of tread left. lil diesel purrs like a kitten. i have been told that 4 digit model #'s indicate a grey market tractor. what exactly does this mean and how does it relate to resale value? it only has 833 hours on it and operates wonderfully. any info on these cute lil tractors would be greatly appreciated.

 

[phatgemi]

It really depends on a lot. Are you buyin or sellin??? Does it have ROPS?? Hard to nail down prices with just a written description. Prob would go somewhere in the $3000-$3500 Range. Of course that's just my opinion and YMMV.

 

[LMTC]

We don't see 1 or 2 YM1602s a year. Not a common model, but not unique either. We sell a YM1601 (predecessor to the 1602 and very plentiful) WITH OSHA approved ROPS, OR coupler, new english decals, parts book, operation manual, tires at least 90%, and 6 month warranty for about 4k. YM1610 (which is a powershift) same way for about 4200. The ROPS alone sells for 639. Both of these models come with a three point hitch from the factory.

Beware 3 point conversions, as they are like anything else.....only as good as the outfit that did it. Also know that the 1602 is a smaller frame tractor than the 1601/1610. It is not as long nor as wide.

 

[normde2001]

To start with it sounds like you need to do your homework on gray market tractors. It takes a certain type of person to successfully, (and happily), own one. You can believe the 833 hours or not. The hour meter probably only goes to 999.

 

[Mcfly89]

It really depends on a lot. Are you buyin or sellin??? Does it have ROPS?? Hard to nail down prices with just a written description. Prob would go somewhere in the $3000-$3500 Range. Of course that's just my opinion and YMMV.

i actually took this tractor to help settle a past due bill. so i would be selling. it does not have ROPS nor does it have the US style pto guard. I know very little about yanmar and grey marklet tractors period. i do need to clean it up, replace a fuel line, put a tube in a front tire, and find out more about it...so i started here. i have read everything i can find in the grey market section here. but again, im not familiar with these tractors so i dont know what tractors are similar in size or function. which makes it very difficult to visualize what needs to be done to make it available for sale.

somewhere i read that this is a 20hp engine, but the side of the hood has a badge that says "16". any of you yanmar gurus got any input. i will attach photos to maybe help with recommendations

 

[Mickey_Fx]

First 2 digits of Yanmar model # is rated PTO HP. Engine will have 15-20% more. Anyone that know Yanmars will know this so give some thought on how you advertise the power of this tractor.

 

[Mcfly89]

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p108/cornfedih/TC40A/DSC02015.jpg

 

[California]

difficult to visualize what needs to be done to make it available for sale....somewhere i read that this is a 20hp engine, but the side of the hood has a badge that says "16". any of you yanmar gurus got any input.

Nice looking rig! I can't comprehend how someone could run expensive equipment with no fuel filter at all. A cheap inline filter is under $5 anywhere. I guess that's the sort of person who doesn't pay his bills either. Oh well - his loss, your gain.

You probably know that 'gray market' means it was imported in used condition by someone other than the manufacturer or his authorized dealers. Yanmar Corp would like to prohibit this, but can't.

The HP translation used in the world of gray yanmars goes like this: As noted, the first two digits of model # are the PTO HP because they are used over there to run a tiller, and PTO HP is what the customer needs to know. For YM2000, its identical engine is used on the US version. The serial number plate on that identical engine reads '24 HP @ 2400 rpm' - because that's what a US customer wants to know. Everyone assumes this conversion ratio will be about the same for other models.

If possible I would replace that missing grab handle. It's all you have for emergency escape if the thing starts to go over. But even on a tractor that size, I don't think that's much of a plan. If you intend to keep it, get a ROPS. If you sell it, inform the customer where to get one.

For selling: a local EquipmentTrader type magazine, newspaper classified, Craigslist or Ebay. Be aware Yanmar Corp is enforcing its trademark on ebay and will kill your auction if they see a gray-market model # that can be located via search. One workaround is call it 'popular Japanese tractor' with an obvious thumbnail picture and the hood logo showing in your full size pix.

 

[Mcfly89]

another quick question, do any of you with a similar tractor have a picture of the 3 point attachment points?

i have a 3 point kit, but the lower link arm pins werent included. the differential housing appears to have a hole on each side to accomodate a threaded pin, but the holes dont extend into the actual housing and there are no threads. if i remember correctly i saw a 2010 that had a bracket that held the pins and bolted on using the outer housing bolts. a picture would reallly help at this point.

 

[Jagmandave]

Here's my 1602D..........

Oops, here's an updated one, I strengthened it.......

 

[lens12]

The YM1602 never came with a 3 point. I'm leery of screwing in a pin. I've seen them break out. The best way to install the lower arm pins is to run a rod through the holes in the hitch. Make 2 brackets with a hole for the rod to go through that can be fastened to a couple bolts where the axle housings bolt to the rearend. This is how the 3 point kit was installed on the YM1502.

 

[Mcfly89]

Jagman, yours were the only pictures i ran across and they came in very handy. if all the searching i did, yours was the one that helped me map out our system. our setup mimicked yours but the holes in the drawbar bracket were too close for our lower link arms to be allowed to rotate. without some grinding it looked a little too tight. instead i made 2 (1/2") plates that moved the factory location 2" further back, which allowed all the room we might need. i attached the brackets in the machined area on each side of the axle housing and used a category 1 lower link arm pin to attach the arms. i then attached a cross brace under the drawbar bracket to resist side strains. this, with the new grade 10.9 bolts, seems to be plenty of strength for any implements we could attach while keeping the front of the tractor on the ground.

The YM1602 never came with a 3 point. I'm leery of screwing in a pin. I've seen them break out. The best way to install the lower arm pins is to run a rod through the holes in the hitch. Make 2 brackets with a hole for the rod to go through that can be fastened to a couple bolts where the axle housings bolt to the rearend. This is how the 3 point kit was installed on the YM1502.

that might have been slightly easier. im certainly not worried about the pins themselves breaking, but there might have been some concern if they had been screwed into the differential housing. thanks for the description lens. I'll attach a few pics to aid future members who might run across this thread. it may or may not be the right way, but it worked for us.

 

[Mcfly89]

here are a few more of the bracketry , etc.

 

[normde2001]

I'm thinking your lift arm links need to be moved to a hole further to the back on the lower lift arms. There will never be a need to lift an implement that high, nor will the drive shaft allow it without breaking something, and it probably won't lower enough to let an implement rest on the ground.

 

[kenmac]

I'm thinking your lift arm links need to be moved to a hole further to the back on the lower lift arms. There will never be a need to lift an implement that high, nor will the drive shaft allow it without breaking something, and it probably won't lower enough to let an implement rest on the ground.

I agree. Looks like it lifts too high

 

[Mcfly89]

I'm thinking your lift arm links need to be moved to a hole further to the back on the lower lift arms. There will never be a need to lift an implement that high, nor will the drive shaft allow it without breaking something, and it probably won't lower enough to let an implement rest on the ground.

i thought so too, but as i recall the link arms need to be as nearly vertical as they can be. with just a drawbar attached to the arms, it rests on the ground when i let it fall all the way down. it raises pretty fast and im sure its lift capacity has been reduced, but so far it lifts more than the front of the tractor will stand. this setup was intended for a rock rake only. and wasnt made to accomodate pto powered attachments.

 

[normde2001]

i thought so too, but as i recall the link arms need to be as nearly vertical as they can be. with just a drawbar attached to the arms, it rests on the ground when i let it fall all the way down. it raises pretty fast and im sure its lift capacity has been reduced, but so far it lifts more than the front of the tractor will stand. this setup was intended for a rock rake only. and wasnt made to accomodate pto powered attachments.

Okeydokey.

 

[Jagmandave]

That looks pretty good.............

Mine may have had some brackets bolted on like those you did, but when I got it the threads were stripped out and the bolts and brackets missing. I had to put the reinforcing tube in because I just bent the ears where the pins are attached pretty much every time I used it. I was using mine to pull a brush hog and a box blade. Since I redid it, no problems!

Oh, and I did grind some off the back side of the lower arms for clearance...........mostly just the corners, so they could rotate without hitting the case.........