YM1810

   / YM1810 #1  

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Hey Guys:

I'm going this weekend to look at a YM1810 with 570hrs. I was wondering if anyone here could give me a quick run down on what to look for and some of the main points of interest when looking over the tractor.

Also if anybody owns this model or ever has, I'd like your opinion.

Thx, Ed
 
   / YM1810 #2  
Ed,
I really like the 1810. It is big enough to be useful on bigger jobs but still small enough that you can get around.

Here are a few problems that have burned us on trade-in tractors in the past.

Be sure that the tractor starts up quickly when the engine is cold (if someone keeps it running until you get there you might want to come back later).If you have to crank on it for more than 10 seconds I would be a little worried. It might just be bad glow plugs but low compression is always my 1st conscern. It should also stop smoking after it warms up a little. After it starts you might check for any bubbles in the radiator. A cracked head will set you back some money. Mash the brakes while you are in a low gear to be sure that the clutch is not slipping. The brakes should usually kill the engine as long as you are not in "creep" gear. I don't get too worried about a seeping axle or pto seal. The tractors are usually shipped dry and sometimes it takes a little time for them to soften up and start to seal again.

I'm sure that I am missing a few obvious things but someone will point them out in other replies.

Hope this helps,
 
   / YM1810 #3  
Assuming it is in good shape, a positive note. It is a very close match to the US YM226. The manuals will be easy to get and the information should apply to that model very closely. It also can accept the YM226 roll bar.
 
   / YM1810 #4  
Aaron covered most of the points. A few things we also look for:
Engine should run smooth at full or nearly full RPM...tells if injectors might have a problem. 3 point should lift and hold 500lbs+ without effort, and hold for 10 minutes w/o dropping more than a couple of inches. Check all oils for water (chocolate milk look). Wiggle PTO shaft for loose bearings.
YM1810 is a great machine!
Jim
Jim's Tractors
 
   / YM1810 #5  
I have a YM1810 and have been very happy with it. Its not as common as a ym1810, but does map over to the ym226 import tractor. The shift on the fly is great. I would have prefered an additioanl gear range, but then I always want anther range on whatever I have.

I have a bushhog qt1846 FEL on mine and it matches the size of the tractor well. Not going to dig a river but nice for moving dirt and dung around.

Gary
 
   / YM1810 #6  
Well I listen to you guys talk about the fancy way to check out a tractor. I guess I might get my two cents in a country boys way. I supervised a machine program for 25 years, buying and selling printing machines, lots of them came from Japan. So importing tractor and sell tractor was just another product to me when I retired. Good common horse sense can tell you more than anything. I tell my customers to do the "pine tree test". That is put the front bumper against a tree and go thru the range of gears and see if anything tears up. Well if you see the wheels spin in most of the gears then that tell you a lots. Next I look for stripped off or rounded bolt heads, that tells me where problems have been. Next and most important to me is around connection on the fuel lines. I know there is bleeder points on most of the lines, but some people don't know what they look like. So if they have been taking loose the lines to bleed fuel when they run out. I wonder what else they have failed to do. Does it have a fuel filter in the tank. I won't buy one unlesss it does. Has all lthe filter been changed. I never offer a tractor for sale unless I've changed or they are new all the filters. Also look at the general apperance of the tractor. You can tell if its been mistreated. If you see visable signs of abuse, walk. There is no telling whats inside. I gues I've got my two cents in, but I can walk around one and tell you wheither or not I want to crank it up. After making my living for many years buying and sell used equipment, I've not took many wooded nickles.
 
   / YM1810 #7  
I like the "pine tree test". Sounds great to me, except one thing...if something breaks, are you now committed to buy the leftovers?
Jim
 
   / YM1810 #8  
Pine tree test....wow.... don’t know what to say about that.... except that I would love to do your service work...

Ed.
Anyway, haven’t seen a fuel filter in a grey mkt tank yet so I would take that off my list of things to look for, if there isn’t one in the fuel bowl that is a problem. Since it isn’t a 4wd most of the real problems have been eliminated. Drive it around use all the buttons and levers. Some will work some might not. Look past the paint and body condition and look at the guts. Shuttle should be tight and function well, most everything else is easy to work on.
 
   / YM1810 #9  
Well this country boy from Ala will try to explain better. Number one. The best way in the world to check a piece of equipment is put a load on it. One of the biggest problems we have with small tractor is keeping the wheels from spinning. To put the bumper against a "pine tree" is doing the same as the dynamometer and lots less expensive. Again if the tractor can't take a load you don't want it. I welcome this test on the tractor I sell. If it can't take it then I'm trying to sell a piece of junk and that won't happen if I know about it.

Now lets start at the top of the tractor, where we put fuel and we have removed the red cap. Under neath that red cap is fuel filter that is about inch and half diameter and maybe 3 inches long. Serve a good purpose of help get the junk out the diesel fuel. If you have never seen one I wonder where you been buying tractors.
 
   / YM1810 #10  
I agree with a load test but not spinning tires in high gear against a tree. That is an abuse test. And hard on perfectly innocent trees /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

I know there is a fill "strainer" under the cap but no in the tank fuel filters that you told him to look for. The in tank fuel filters are located at the bottom of the tank on top of a removable bung and greys don’t have them.
 

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