YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

[California]

For anybody who got a bad HF torque wrench - take it back for exchange! Its a screwy business model, but HF recognizes their uneven quality and is gracious about exchanges until you get an item that works.

I wouldn't use this 'precision instrument' without a beam torque wrench for comparison - but this really is more convenient.

 

[KubotainNH]

Just for conversation but my Snap-On digital torque wrench was well over $400 has a gps in it or something because it measures degrees of swing as in torque to yield (crap bolts) bolts, its 1/2 inch drive and does inch pounds, Nm, sae, degrees, answers to hey you well not that but is aircraft certified also. I trust it also is a buzzer and a vibrator in the handle when torque is reached and tells you the exact value you stopped at

Wow, does it make coffee?

For anybody who got a bad HF torque wrench - take it back for exchange! Its a screwy business model, but HF recognizes their uneven quality and is gracious about exchanges until you get an item that works.

I wouldn't use this 'precision instrument' without a beam torque wrench for comparison - but this really is more convenient.

I'm not sure where mine came from, I got it as a gift. I'm just saying don't assume it's accurate. Never loosening up a clicker type is supposed to stretch the spring, maybe I didn't do that once. :confused3:

 

[Car Doc]

I agree with California on the beam types. From my experience if they are off it shows on the scale the needle will be one way or the other when they bend or are over torqued.

I really used to like Snap-On beam/dial torque wrenches they were bullet pruf and I would go back to one if I ever got to where I saw the digital wasn't doing a good job. Its just hard to see the beam scale or dial on some applications especially when its in the 200+ ft pounds range. Its all you can do just to move it let alone watch the gage :laughing: is why I even use a digital fwtw.

Clicker types wear internally the clicker is a triangle shaped piece of metal that goes over center when the set amount is reached and the tip of this piece is critical to accuracy and wears. At least thats how they were explained to me by my Snap-On man.

 

[jonyyuma]

I( use both types..Beam is craftsman and the clicker is snap-on.. Inch pounds is Grainger, with a dial.

 

[KubotainNH]

I agree with California on the beam types. From my experience if they are off it shows on the scale the needle will be one way or the other when they bend or are over torqued.

I really used to like Snap-On beam/dial torque wrenches they were bullet pruf and I would go back to one if I ever got to where I saw the digital wasn't doing a good job. Its just hard to see the beam scale or dial on some applications especially when its in the 200+ ft pounds range. Its all you can do just to move it let alone watch the gage :laughing: is why I even use a digital fwtw.

Well, if it got bent then it wouldn't read 0 anymore when stationary so you at least would know it's off. True enough on the high ft pounds but my clicker would never get close to that range. If I need to get up there I'd mark it with tape and have my son tell me when I'm there. As for the multiple hundreds of dollar ones, that's beyond my affordability range. Do you get them calibrated often?

Any news Domush??

 

[Domush]

In an attempt to avoid the inevitable fund drain, I've been doing some web work to pass the time

I'll be back on it in a couple of days.

I'm curious how off my clicker type is, now. It's near new, but it wasn't delicately handled during my last move and I've never calibrated it. I do miss my dad's needle version. I likely messed that one up, though, as I played with that all of the time as a little kid.. was such a cool tool to measure my strength with

 

[5030]

Problem with any mechanical type torque instrument is it goes 'out of calibration' over time. I have my Snap-On dial wrenches re-calibrated every 2 years.

I use them in critical applications where fastener torque must be correct. When applying a torque value, any fastener will elongate (stretch) to a degree. Sometimes that elongations renders the fastener not reuseable for any application.

However, applied torque can be dry torque or wet (with compound of some type) applied to the threads. That's usually specified by the particular application and if not specified, is assumed to be dry (as in pre-cleaned mating threads).

 

[Car Doc]

In my world as a rule if a head bolt etc goes into coolant it needs sealer on threads and if its a blind hole motor oil all with clean threads.

My torque wrenches get replaced every few years they get used on everything I work on so after that much time they are in need of rebuild so I buy new ones.

I am of the opinion and its an educated one based on years of doing it that if the torque sequence calls for 3 steps I divide it into 4 or 5 and so on but thats me. You can tell when a bolt has had enough it just wont tighten. I see brand new head bolts that wont tighten I replace them on almost every engine I build.

Just for conversation but some engines I work on require me to torque them all the way up thru sequence and then un-torque them in order. Then re-torque them a second time that is a time consuming operation on v6 and v8 engines with 4 cams and no room to work.

 

[bruce1966us]

I would bet 10-1 that I can come within 5lbs just by feel over the cheap torgue wrenches. I just do it every day...

 

[5030]

Torgue Wrench????

New tool??:thumbsup:

Must be a tool for the morgue???