First thing measure the distance from the top of the piston, to the top of the block, on all cylinders that will tell you if there is a bent rod
I'll do that before I pull the pistons. They have to get pulled for a rering, anyhow, so I'll know for sure if a rod is bent or not.
the cylinders need to be measured you may be able to get away with a hone and re-ring job.
That's the plan. I'll check for cyl width spec once I get outside.
I would get the fuel nozzles checked, the pumps are near bulletproof.
When I mentioned pump #2 not putting out fuel, I had the nozzles off, so it can't be the nozzles
. I'll prob have them checked anyhow if the cost isn't huge.
You didn't ask for advice, but I'll throw in my two bits worth anyway:
Advice always accepted. It only varies when it comes to heeding it
sometimes the only cost-effective next step is to abandon the project as-is at a loss and go try something else. I wonder if this Yanmar falls in that category.
I can't just throw in the towel without at least trying to fix it. I have some free time coming up, so hopefully I can put a few hundred into it and get a working engine. if not, $300 or so isn't the end of the world and I'll have some experience for the next time I have to do it correctly. :laughing:
The ring sets I see at Hoye are $47.42 a set. An intake valve and guide to replace the tuliped one are $25 ish.
That price is much easier to swallow! I'll likjely swap out that valve for a measly $25. Not worth the risk of later needing to pull the head and pay another $56 for a new head gasket, too.
I would suggest swapping injector lines or the injectors from the operating one to the dead cylinder, to isolate if it is a bad injector or if the pump isn't functioning properly, before you spend any money.
Might be a little late on that one, as the thing is pretty dismantled already. I'll see if I can't get the injectors reattached to the lines to properly test if fuel is getting delivered or not. When I test #2, it was without the injector, just the line hanging in mid-air. Do these pumps need the injector back-pressure to feed fuel properly? #1 and #3 didn't push a lot of fuel, but it was at least coming out.
My pet peeve is half azz engine rebuilds
Nearly every pro mechanic I've come across has their head spin when someone mentioned a 1/2 way rebuild. I figured you would show your disapproval at this method
.. but money wins out in the end. I know your experience will mean I'll get the longest life with what I have to work with, even if you hate to witness it happen.
you could re-use the bearings if they look good I wouldn't think twice about it.
The bottoms look perfect. If the tops are the same, I don't see them needing to be replaced. I'll go by the price, though. If they only cost $10/set I'll swap them out anyhow.
I would re-ring all the pistons
Now that I see the rings are only $45/piston that seems doable. I'll feel better having 3 matched sets anyhow. I want to hone all 3 cyls and I don't know if reusing rings is possible anyhow, so now it won't matter. (though I'm still curious if you ever have)
air check the valves before tear down
How do I do this? It seems as though there are passageways everywhere on the head, so how do I clock them all for an air test? Did you mean before I remove the head? because.. too late.
If they dont seat a valve job will need done
I may take it in anyhow, just for advice as to how worn out they are. If the valves are $25/ea, that's $75 for peace of mind (the large valves look much better than the small ones). Though the total cost would be getting up there at that point.
Duly noted.
I would do it for a box of beer.
Good idea! I'll bring a box with me to the valve shop. Maybe they'll even agree to loan me a ball hone, too
Vern was re-doing his there is plenty of good info on his thread check that out too.
Yeah, I watched that with interest. It didn't go into much detail, but it was nice to see what i was getting into.
As has been mentioned you will need to either take the injectors and pump in and have them pop tested
Where would I go to get this done? A diesel truck repair shop? I don't have a local tractor repair place in my town.
how I prep my flat surfaces- I use a rubber sanding block and 80 grit air file sheets torn in half
I have an 18" long air body sander, would this work well for the head surface?
Does that even have to come off? The bolts are
really bad, so I was hoping to avoid dealing with it entirely.
It possibly the injector pump, id take it off and carry to a rebuild shop and see what they say. I would then rebuild or get new injectors for that cyl and maybe others as well. Redo the head, and hone the cyls and put new rings on it for a farmer rebuild, i bet that gets you going again for another 2000 hours of use like you are talking about.
Sounds exactly like what I was hoping to do. I worry about the injector pump rebuild cost, but at least it would only be for one pump, not all three.
I really hate this for you, after you did such a nice job on getting this yanmar presentable and functional.
I know, right?! You'd think I'd get some good karma points for that.
just curious if the sludge/buildup wasn't so bad would this tractor still be running with what is known now?
It may turn out the knock was purely because of the injector pump, but I may never know at this point. I skipped some diagnosis steps I should have taken. I didn't think of testing the pump until after the head was off.
makes me want to drop the oil pan on mine just to look
If you bought your tractor used, I'd recommend it! It only takes an hour or so total. That screen is a pretty big bottleneck when it gets clogged, and there is no way to tell short of putting a camera snake into the oil fill hole or dropping the pan. I had 50PSI oil pressure that morning and it was that clogged, so even a gauge doesn't always tell you.
plastigage on bearings that I do recommend because of the knock etc just so we know.
I bought the plastigauge already. I'll test it out with the installed bearings today, so I know if I'll need to order up new bearings or not.
as long as #2 piston isn't shot then its another $87 still a reasonable re-ring cost if you ask me.
Yeah, not bad at all. For a tractor which is no longer made, I was expecting a far greater cost basis.
AutoZone is a good place to borrow stuff:thumbsup:
Thanks for the link! I have one in my area, too. Really happy the hone is also a loaner tool!
Now to get to work measuring and testing. Hopefully I'll know by Sat what parts I need and get them into Hoye.
A huge thank you to everyone who has chimed in on this thread. I'd most assuredly be paying more and working harder on this tractor had I not had your help!
