YM336d: What are these parts?

[Domush]

Being my first tractor, and one which needs some extensive work, I have quite a few questions I could use some help answering, especially as I don't have an owner's manual.

Please take a minute and watch this video and provide any input you can. Thanks a bunch!

Yanmar 336D tractor questions

EDIT: Link fixed, sorry about that!

 

[winston1]

The 1st pedal is the differential lock. When you mash that both rear wheels are locked together. Only used when needed. I believe the little lever at the back of the gear shift is a lock used in conjunction with the creep gear. The little rod that goes in the clutch arm is the inertia brake arm. There is an adjustment procedure for it. I do not have a manual for the 336 so I am unsure about your adjustment. My manual is for a 226 so likely not the same as yours. I have no clue about your wires, maybe someone can post a wiring diagram on the 336. I have been following your posts about this tractor. The shearing or breaking of those bolts is very mysterious to me and I imagine others. I can't imagine what could have happened to cause this. With everything you have opened up is that the only damage you have seen? Best of luck to you. :thumbsup: If any of you guys have trouble with the video as I did you can go to google and type in "video ym336d" and pick it up.

 

[Domush]

Thanks a bunch for the info. I was wondering if mine had a diff lock. Glad it does. I'll be sure to fiddle that creeper lock when I get it running again. I'll also check the service manual right now for directions on adjusting the inertial brake arm. Hopefully it isn't an owner's manual item.

I wonder if those bolts were popped by someone using that diff lock while turning on pavement. It is really the only explanation I can think of, seeing as diff lock on a tight radius would tweak both axles at once, which may pop all bolts at once in order to allow the axle to back away from the drive gears. I'd guess the owner popped those bolts and thought, "well, it appears I no longer need this tractor.. I should just pop these axles back into place and sell it to some unsuspecting new owner!". Whether or not the second part is true, the first sure seems like the most logical explanation given two distinct sets of bolts popped at the same time.

 

[clemsonfor]

Im thinking those bolts should be stronger than the traction gained by the tires? Basically i would think the tires would scrub first and breask traction, uless the tires were loaded and he was doing donuts or something? Who knows maybe it stuck and the tractor bounced at a high rate of speed as it went over a ground level rock in a field while turning or some other freak thing.

 

[clemsonfor]

Those wires that are cut right above the starter prolly just melted and can be respliced back togeather. But my guess is that they were just power wires for lights or something on the dash? Reason i think this is that the go to the front of the tractor and all that is up there is the battery. You can cut that tape off and follow them each way. Did you have a dash for this? Were all the wires cut from the dash?

 

[Scotty Dive]

looks like they might be for the rear lights according to section 80 of this pdf:

http://downloads.pfgaustralia.com.au/intranetwebcache/Parts/Parts Manuals/Yanmar/Y00T2140.pdf

 

[kenmac]

that arm that attaches to the clutch is power shift brake release lever. Adjustment procedure can be found on pg 60 in your owners manual

 

[Domush]

that arm that attaches to the clutch is power shift brake release lever. Adjustment procedure can be found on pg 60 in your owners manual

I don't have an owner's manual

Would you mind scanning or taking a picture of your pg 60?

The service manual seems to ignore that arm and only has adjustment for the clutch arm.

 

[winston1]

The adjustment procedure for the inertia brake is in the clutch section in my 226 manual. Have you looked in the clutch section of your service manual? That should be there. Clutch pedal needs to be adjusted first if needed, then the inertia brake. Power shift brake release is the same thing, different terminology.

 

[Car Doc]

The wires if they are the same color and quantity at both side of the cut I would just splice them back together.

I have a service manual and I will attempt to help out with a diagram dont hold your breath on my ability to make that happen though.

The front wheels appear to be in the reversed position maybe not a huge problem on a tractor w/o a loader but just a heads up you may want to flip them side to side later on. :thumbsup:

Here is a picture of my ym3810D shift decal showing the creep gear lockout we have similar tractors the 3110D is a sister also fwtw.

The creep gear is actuated when you move into first gear in main box and then move the little creep gear lever and you then can move the gearshift one more spot forward of first gear.

CAUTION wait till its running and you can drive it before attempting to operate this creep gear! My experience is it can be a bugger to get back out and I have had to move forward and reverse with the powershift to get mine back out of creep so use now at your own risk!

The rod and lever you are pointing at that is unhooked now is hooked to a fork inside the bellhousing and moves a rod coming out of the powershift with a horizontal pin thru it and the lever on the outside moves a fork inside and pulls this rod and pin which is the powershift dump valve.

With that said the rod could very well be rusted and wont move w/o splitting the tractor and lubing it like the 2420D I just worked on. The tractor will work w/o this being hooked up I know this because I recently had a 2420D in my shop the I replaced the clutch in and this lever had never been on and working the whole time the guy had it.

I freed it up and adjusted it and as far as I know he hasnt seen any difference in how it all operates. It is there for a reason obviously but from my experience it isn't going to affect it to the point it wont operate where you will notice anything wrong. my 2c ymmv as always