Z145 cooling problems

[Lava Rancher]

What's the correct pressute rating for a radiator cap for the Z145? AgCO sells two, 7lbs and 10-11.

 

[The kid]

What's the correct pressute rating for a radiator cap for the Z145? AgCO sells two, 7lbs and 10-11.

My manual says 7# cap. If your having cooling problems, check the front trap door for debris. Check to see if your fan belt is tight. , could be a bad thermostat. If you have a temp gauge is it showing hot? Lastly it could be clogged radiator. The radiator must pressurize to work properly. You must have the proper amount of antifreeze/coolant mix in the system which lowers the boiling point. You must have good circulation. A thermostat not opening properly or a clogged radiator will restrict flow.

 

[Lava Rancher]

Thanks. I'd have guessed 10.... The part number's been updated and the AgCO database is no help. Must get off arse and buy that manual.

 

[The kid]

Thanks. I'd have guessed 10.... The part number's been updated and the AgCO database is no help. Must get off arse and buy that manual.

The original part number hasn't changed. They have been changed with the dealers. When speaking to a dealer pay close attention when they start talking part numbers which are cross reference numbers. Example. I wanted to buy a new left side fender with built in toolbox. They spit out a Sparex number. Said they number had been changed to S.XXXXxXx Depending on where the dealer acquires the part would be the part number they use. Their database shows those changes. The original parts number book is still valid. The AGCO database is used to identify a part by it's original number so you and the dealer are on the same page. The manuals you buy from AGCO show assembly and disassembly.

 

[Lava Rancher]

The dealer was buying parts directly from AgCo...

 

[Lava Rancher]

Well the parts are in at the dealer so I'll pick them up today. Replacing hoses, thermostat and radiator cap. Hopefully water pump is still good but it'll be next if that doesn't work. There appears to be good flow into the top of the radiator while it is running. I took off the cover of the thermostat housing and the thermostat wouldn't budge. I didn't pry but I don't think it is threaded... probably corroded in place. The fluid is really gunky so I'd guess a flush is in order followed by maybe a boilout of the radiator by a shop. Then reassembly. Would you guys do a flush first to limit the recontamination of the radiator post boil out? How would you recommend removing the stuck thermostat? I don't want to damage the housing. I figure the temp gauge failed due to contamination in the coolant. Is that a likely scenario. Oil and water don't appear to be mixing but there is a slight fluid weep at the front of the head. He's hoping that the head gasket doesn't need attention yet.

 

[Lava Rancher]

Remove cap, check. Open petcock, check. Watch coolant drain. Close petcock, check. Add flush, check. Watch flush stream out petcock that won't close....


Guess the radiator is headed to the shop sooner than later.

 

[The kid]

Remove cap, check. Open petcock, check. Watch coolant drain. Close petcock, check. Add flush, check. Watch flush stream out petcock that won't close....

Guess the radiator is headed to the shop sooner than later.

Have you removed the radiator yet?

 

[Lava Rancher]

Haven't yet. Pulled off the bodywork and now it's dark. Plan on pulling it in the am. Looks like two bolts, the prop to the thermostat housing and the hoses are all that hold it in place.

I guess a bonus is that I'll be sure that the radiator is clean and clear. I was going to attempt to just half arse it.

 

[The kid]

Haven't yet. Pulled off the bodywork and now it's dark. Plan on pulling it in the am. Looks like two bolts, the prop to the thermostat housing and the hoses are all that hold it in place.

I guess a bonus is that I'll be sure that the radiator is clean and clear. I was going to attempt to just half arse it.

I was going to suggest how to remove the sheetmetal in one piece to expose the radiator. The radiator is held in place with two carriage bolts in the bottom of the radiator. Facing the front of the tractor, the bottom right bolt hole is slotted so you only have to loosen the right one. You have to totally remove the left bolt. If the hoses are old, go ahead and replace them. If there is no brace on the top of the rad just behind the cap the the hoses are the only thing that's holding the radiator up. Beware. when you reinstall the rad, and there is no brace at the top. The top rad hose acts like a vertical adjustment to keep the fan from hitting the lower part of the rad fan shrowd. You'll see what I'm talking about when you take your hoses lose. loosen the generator belt so you can spin the fan. With the hoses off move the radiator foward or backward. The fan will hit in one of these positions. Just make sure the fan spins clear before bolting everything down. I just put up some pictures of my rad just yesterday you may or may not have seen. If the bolts are seized holding the bottom of the rad, can be a PITA to get loose if they spin while trying to loosen them. Good luck.

My rad could stand replacing. It's pretty sad on the bottom and shows some past repairs. Still holding water though.. Maybe in the near future. maybe not.