ZETOR FRONT END LOADER

   / ZETOR FRONT END LOADER #1  

GSP974

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Joined
Feb 19, 2005
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6
I WANT TO BUILD A FRONT END LOADER FOR MY OLD ZETOR 7245 4X4 TRACTOR... IT RUNS GREAT HAD SOME PROBLEMS BUT GOT THEM WORKED OUT FOR THE MOST PART... ANY IDEAS... AN OLD LOADER FROM SOME WHERE.. I DONT CARE...
 
   / ZETOR FRONT END LOADER #2  
Any appropriately sized loader could be adapted...just fabricate your own mounts and subframe. The old Freeman/Bush Hog loaders go pretty cheap in our area. I'd think with patient watching you could pick up a complete one for$500. You can cut the existing mounts and subframe if needed and use that material to make your "new" mounts and any additional metal can be purchased at the local junk yard. I purchased a Freeman/B.H. "frame" ( no hydraulics) for $75 and then cut it apart and used that metal to fabricate the new pieces needed to adapt it to my tractor. Even with all new cylinders and a N.I.B. New Holland Joystick ( purchased off Ebay) , fittings and hoses I still only had $500+ in the whole thing about 5 years ago.
 
   / ZETOR FRONT END LOADER #3  
Our 6245 came with an Allied loader installed. Might give them a ring and ask if they make one.

Rich
 
   / ZETOR FRONT END LOADER #4  
Easy enough to rig any loader to fit - the ticklish part is the subframe and mounts are strong enough not to break or cause the tractor to split in two. My Zetor tractor with Zetor loader subframe is about 1" thick on both sides nose to tail.
 
   / ZETOR FRONT END LOADER #5  
Easy enough to rig any loader to fit - the ticklish part is the subframe and mounts are strong enough not to break or cause the tractor to split in two. My Zetor tractor with Zetor loader subframe is about 1" thick on both sides nose to tail.
from the clutch housing towards the rear, the frame just takes up the lateral forces, the transmission is only a foot wide but three foot high: with a loader you bend it laterally, especially with an MFWD. these 1"x4 or 5" axle bars dont take much horizontal bend, they are just spaced wide apart to take the force of the area right behind the clutch bellhousing, thats historically the place where any loader tractor can break.
On the front part, you need to bridge both attachment points to support the front axle console, it might break if you dont extend it beyond the first attachment points in front of the engine.
Furthermore, the fuel tank on the right side under the cab, as well as the old power assisted steering arm and cylinder system are a PITA when making a loader frame. But perhaps the OP's 7245 already has the fully hydrostatic steering (orbitrol system) which makes it a lot easier to route a frame.

I am transplanting my home made loader with hot rolled C channel frame, from my father/brothers 5245 to my own 5718, i thought i made it universal, but i run into a lot of smaller clearance issues... But i have a torch and a welder, thats all you need ;)
the 5245 with loader, is replaced by a 5 ton payloader, so that puts things in perspective.. ;) I will only use my loader to collect bales from fields, not for excavating anymore. So i can do with a cheaper 2wd tractor with a little calcium in the rears...
 
 
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