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  1. #1
    Epic Contributor k0ua's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    23,265
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    Branson, Mo.
    Tractor
    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    I decided to add a foot stand to my angle blade,Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131018_154553_743-jpg So I decided to make every thing from scratch. I used 1 inch Square tubing, for the leg, and the rest was scrap sheet steel, 12 or 13 gauge I think. And I used the small chain I had made here a few days ago for a pin holder. I made the pin out of a 5/16 bolt, but added some nice grooves in it to retain the chain at the head and in the middle to be retained by the foot itself using gravity to an advantage. This shows filing of the spinning bolt to create a groove near the head to be used as the chain retainer groove. The link will snap into this groove and be retained by its sharp shoulder. The other grooves I made with an angle grinder on the spinning bolt.Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_142348_253-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_143727_202-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_144023_140-jpg

    I started on the foot by drilling 4 holes in my measured 1 inch square stock at the end, and cutting them in half with the bandsaw. This will allow for water drainage out the of the foot. And a cap welded on topAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131018_135558_715-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131018_155354_985-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131018_155413_220-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131018_163204_084-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131018_172028_778-jpg
    Then comes measuring and cutting the 3 pieces of sheetmetal to be assembled for the foot to slide up and down in on the face of the implements frame.Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_111857_126-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_112152_607-jpg Then fit up for weldingAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_112706_073-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_123802_248-jpgAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_123752_330-jpg
    Then Attach the chain and pinAdding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_145811_920-jpg I then welded this onto the frame of the implement.Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_153436_715-jpg Then 2 holes were drilled into the foot to be used for when it is fully extended down and fully up. And there you go. I will set it on its foot as soon as the paint dries. Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-img_20131023_163517_990-jpg What do you guys think?

    James K0UA
    James K0UA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner NRA Life Member How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN .


  2. #2
    Silver Member kg7il's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    142
    Location
    Eatonville, Washington
    Tractor
    Kubota L3800

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    Looks great.
    I have a rake that needs legs!
    2011 Kubota L3800 HST with Loader. PHD, RC60 and LR
    2011 John Deere D120 for the wife
    KG7IL -
    Kimber Ultra Covert - No Gun Rack yet

  3. #3
    Veteran Member
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    Feb 2012
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    1,209
    Location
    Albany OR
    Tractor
    Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    James, looks good - my 6' tiller came with one, just made two for my older Gannon box blade but I got lazy - I tend to use nesting square tube for stuff like that. I used1-1/4 square tube for the leg, 1-1/2 for the "socket", drilled a few extra holes so I can tilt the blade forward/back to get close to the angle of the hitch (only one of my tractors has a hydraulic toplink so far, other is old school) - I welded the "sockets" to the front cross-beam on the Gannon - it's about 5" on the front, flat side - the beam itself is "D" shaped. Sucker is definitely too heavy to man-handle, even if I were 30 years younger.

    I've done similar tricks using drill press and files, side grinders, etc - haven't found a lathe or mill I wanna pay for yet

    I've found that the CGW thin cutoff wheels (start off 5" dia.) in a side grinder AFTER they've worn down to about 3", you can "re-square" the cutting edge by running it against a bench grinder wheel) works pretty good with less "wander" than a new, larger diameter one (when you're trying to get a square bottomed snap ring groove)

    I really like your "weep holes", may steal that one next time.

    For pins, I tend to keep a few of these around

    Amazon.com: Speeco 3 Point Pto Locking Pin 1/4IN Round #P7938ZBU: Home Improvement

    My local farm supply stocks 'em in sizes as small as 3/16" dia. (Did I mention I sometimes get lazy? )

    Still haven't fired up the tig rig, but did "relocate" about 20 more yards of dirt where the shop expansion's going, probably about 50-70 more yards to go counting re-sloping of the driveway- good thing I'm not gonna build it til next year It's gonna be nice having an extra 32' x 60' to "play" in during our typical 8 months of wet/windy weather... Steve

  4. #4
    Elite Member Redneck in training's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    3,539
    Location
    South Central Iowa
    Tractor
    TYM 330 HST with FEL

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    I also had blade stand similar to yours. The problem was that I was forgetting to lift it and broke it several times. Therefore I modified it such a way that it swings backwards instead of breaking. When the blade is on the tractor (and I don't forget to lift it) I lift it to horizontal position where it is held by a latch.

  5. #5
    Epic Contributor k0ua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    23,265
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    Branson, Mo.
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    Quote Originally Posted by BukitCase View Post
    James, looks good - my 6' tiller came with one, just made two for my older Gannon box blade but I got lazy - I tend to use nesting square tube for stuff like that. I used1-1/4 square tube for the leg, 1-1/2 for the "socket", drilled a few extra holes so I can tilt the blade forward/back to get close to the angle of the hitch (only one of my tractors has a hydraulic toplink so far, other is old school) - I welded the "sockets" to the front cross-beam on the Gannon - it's about 5" on the front, flat side - the beam itself is "D" shaped. Sucker is definitely too heavy to man-handle, even if I were 30 years younger.

    I've done similar tricks using drill press and files, side grinders, etc - haven't found a lathe or mill I wanna pay for yet

    I've found that the CGW thin cutoff wheels (start off 5" dia.) in a side grinder AFTER they've worn down to about 3", you can "re-square" the cutting edge by running it against a bench grinder wheel) works pretty good with less "wander" than a new, larger diameter one (when you're trying to get a square bottomed snap ring groove)

    I really like your "weep holes", may steal that one next time.

    For pins, I tend to keep a few of these around

    Amazon.com: Speeco 3 Point Pto Locking Pin 1/4IN Round #P7938ZBU: Home Improvement

    My local farm supply stocks 'em in sizes as small as 3/16" dia. (Did I mention I sometimes get lazy? )

    Still haven't fired up the tig rig, but did "relocate" about 20 more yards of dirt where the shop expansion's going, probably about 50-70 more yards to go counting re-sloping of the driveway- good thing I'm not gonna build it til next year It's gonna be nice having an extra 32' x 60' to "play" in during our typical 8 months of wet/windy weather... Steve
    Hi Steve, feel free to "steal" anything you want. I thought about using one of those pins, but I just kinda wanted to see if my idea would work, and it does. I am sure you will really enjoy your new shop.

    James K0UA
    James K0UA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner NRA Life Member How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN .


  6. #6
    Elite Member Zebrafive's Avatar
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    Aug 2010
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    South West MI
    Tractor
    John Deere 2030, John Deere 6415

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    I made something similar. I used pipe. I welded a ring at the top to capture the pipe. I made mine bolt on. I should drill a drain hole in the foot. Good idea.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-hooksstandjd6415-003-jpg   Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.-hooksstandjd6415-002-jpg  
    John Deere 2030 JD 245SL Loader
    John Deere 6415 mfwd JD 640SL Loader

  7. #7
    Epic Contributor k0ua's Avatar
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zebrafive View Post
    I made something similar. I used pipe. I welded a ring at the top to capture the pipe. I made mine bolt on. I should drill a drain hole in the foot. Good idea.
    That looks good, I figured that water would get in from the holes drilled in the side and collect at the bottom, and possibly freeze and burst the pipe.
    James K0UA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner NRA Life Member How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN .


  8. #8
    Veteran Member troutsqueezer's Avatar
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    Pilot Hill, CA.
    Tractor
    Kubota B21

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    I need more excuses to use my welder, that looks like a fun project. Too bad my blade already has one. But since you asked, I do have several thoughts:

    Is the base wide enough? When it rains and the ground softens, will it sink? Depends on where you park it I guess.

    The paint job looks good but I'm afraid now you're going to have to paint the whole blade so it matches.
    - Dennis

    Once you see the bandwagon, it's too late.

  9. #9
    Epic Contributor k0ua's Avatar
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    Branson, Mo.
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    Quote Originally Posted by troutsqueezer View Post
    I need more excuses to use my welder, that looks like a fun project. Too bad my blade already has one. But since you asked, I do have several thoughts:

    Is the base wide enough? When it rains and the ground softens, will it sink? Depends on where you park it I guess.

    The paint job looks good but I'm afraid now you're going to have to paint the whole blade so it matches.
    It is always parked on gravel, of course if it sinks, I will just add a bigger chunk to the foot. Yep painting of the whole thing is in the works I just slopped some paint on the foot for rust protection. I am thinking of painting it orange. I haven't decided yet!
    James K0UA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner NRA Life Member How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN .


  10. #10
    Elite Member Chilly807's Avatar
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    Sep 2009
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    Nova Scotia
    Tractor
    Kubota L3400DT

    Default Re: Adding a foot stand to an angle blade.

    Looks good, the funny part is I just finished building one for my rear blade a few weeks ago, never thought to take any pics. I'll try to get some this weekend. I did think of the drain holes at the foot, however..

    One extra hole got drilled in the vertical stand leg, about 1.5 inches above the one where the lock pin goes when the steel foot is on the ground and the frame is level. That's so when the ground gets soft I can lay a piece of 2x? material under the foot to keep it from sinking. Most of the year I won't need it, but in late fall and early spring it would sink otherwise.

    Sean

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