It's time; either get started or....

[chad22]

I vote subframe. On a tractor, subframes are a good idea. On a lawn tractor it's essential.

I also vote subframe. Even though the lawn tractor I mounted my backhoe on was a flimsier made tractor. And to be honest that frame didn't hold up very well. It started pulling apart and bending in the middle.

And my thinking is that your frame might do a little flexing as well. From what I can tell your lawn tractor looks like my Sears lawn tractor that I'm gonna put the loader on. And when I do make the loader for it. I'm gonna make a subframe for it. To keep it from deciding to bend on me.

I need to do it anyway to make the mounts for the loader arms.

So definitely make a subframe. This way you won't have to do a tear down again to get it right. "I had to tear down and put my backhoe back together somewhere around 20 times" and hope this last tear down and reassemble that I did the other day will be the last.

My back is killing me moving the heaving boom and stick around.

I learned it the hard way. Thought I could get by without a subframe, I was wrong. :laughing:

Chad

 

[mjncad]

I vote subframe too; but if you can't and choose to use a brace like in photo 2, then I suggest angle iron or C-channel instead if you can make it work. They'll be a lot stiffer than flat bar.

 

[NormL]

Thanks for the input, fellas.:thumbsup: Chad, it is a Sears. The name on it is Craftsman which is a Sears brand in Canada. I won't be building a FEL for this tractor any time soon, if ever. I have two other tractors, both with FELs. mjncad, I thought 2"x1/4" flat might serve because any stress would always be pulling, plus if I use angle or channel, I will have to change out the fuel tank. As it is the fit would be close.

So, let's say I'm building a sub frame for my Craftsman. Do I build it all the way to the front? Or will a few inches short of the front axle do? I ask this because my original plan has been to put a dozer blade in front for weight and anchorage during hoe operation. A sub frame beyond the front axle would give me ground clearance issues, too. Maybe my problem is my understanding of what a sub frame is.:confused2: I'll have to study up on it before I start building one.

 

[rcurrie]

I would add a piece of 1/4 x 4 along the length of the frame front to back. Along with the angle brace you are showing.

 

[NormL]

I would add a piece of 1/4 x 4 along the length of the frame front to back. Along with the angle brace you are showing.

I'm afraid that would take skills I do not posses. There are linkages to the brake and clutch that I would have to change. But what if I were to put a brace as pictured on each side welded to a stout angle iron running across and bolted down and/or welded to the platform. This would not interfere with anything and with large washers or even pieces of flat iron on the underside, I wonder if this would offer adequate support. If I understand this correctly, it all comes down to preventing the tractor frame from buckling, or the back of the tractor getting ripped away by all the stuff I'm hanging on it. Chad, I intend to heed your advice about building too weak.

 

[mjncad]

mjncad, I thought 2"x1/4" flat might serve because any stress would always be pulling, plus if I use angle or channel, I will have to change out the fuel tank. As it is the fit would be close.

Then I vote for C-channel as the flanges won't protrude anywhere near as much as the leg of an angle iron, whether equal or unequal leg lengths. According to my steel book, a 2" x 1/2" x 1/8" Bar Size C-channel has a flange width of 1/2". Weight is approximately 1.43 pounds/foot. The 2" x 1/4" flat weighs in at 1.70 pounds/foot.

Even though the stress may always be pulling as you say in a perfect world; the reality of the situation is that C-channel will be less likely to buckle than flat bar will. If you have a vertical bandsaw, you could always rip some C-channel from 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing, which will make for a stout brace.

 

[NormL]

Then I vote for C-channel as the flanges won't protrude anywhere near as much as the leg of an angle iron, whether equal or unequal leg lengths. According to my steel book, a 2" x 1/2" x 1/8" Bar Size C-channel has a flange width of 1/2". Weight is approximately 1.43 pounds/foot. The 2" x 1/4" flat weighs in at 1.70 pounds/foot.

Even though the stress may always be pulling as you say in a perfect world; the reality of the situation is that C-channel will be less likely to buckle than flat bar will. If you have a vertical bandsaw, you could always rip some C-channel from 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing, which will make for a stout brace.

Nope, don't have a bandsaw with a blade to cut steel. I tried that with the cheapo saw I've got and the bi-metal blades I bought for it got dull really fast. It started to run into money for blades so I had to find a different way to make the cuts.

I did a 300+ mile trip today and had a lot of time to "engineer" while I was watching the road. I think I may have a way to use channel in that tight spot where the tank sits. If I run it horizontally till it clears the tank and then angle it downward toward the frame and weld that to a reinforcing plate, what do you gentlemen think? I'm sure I would have to gusset that kink, but even then it should be easy enough to do.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

As for your subframe, think of a cradle that holds your tractor. If built perfect, the subframe will gently lift the tractor off the ground before anything is stressed to the point of failure. You're just going to have to look at what you have to work with and come as close to this as possible.

If you're putting a blade on the front (which I think is a good idea), then ideally your subframe will connect the backhoe to the blade. It would be best to not rely on any part of the garden tractor frame carry any of the forces from the backhoe or blade.

There's no law that says all of this distribution of forces has to be done with something running under your tractor. It might look goofy, but you could run bars down the sides, up top, or any way you can imagine. I'm sure you'll figure out something that's perfect for your situation.

 

[NormL]

There's no law that says all of this distribution of forces has to be done with something running under your tractor. It might look goofy, but you could run bars down the sides, up top, or any way you can imagine. I'm sure you'll figure out something that's perfect for your situation.

Thanks for that! I really have little background in the subframe concept. Looking for something on the internet was not working either - it didn't help that we were without it for most of a week. This helps!:thumbsup:

 

[mjncad]

I think I may have a way to use channel in that tight spot where the tank sits. If I run it horizontally till it clears the tank and then angle it downward toward the frame and weld that to a reinforcing plate, what do you gentlemen think? I'm sure I would have to gusset that kink, but even then it should be easy enough to do.

If you've got room, add the gusset.