L3400 CCM hydraulic top link length

[canoetrpr]

Just getting ready to order a hydraulic top link. I have a Pats. the factory top link has been working fine. It's length is 16" min and 27.5" maximum.

I'm guessing that the best CCM fit is the Cat 1- 18-26.5"?

What have the rest of you got? Does it work well for size with a box blade?

 

[StrangeRanger]

Hehe.... did you see my post and I'm finally pushing you over the edge to do it to? LOL

I've been thinking the same thing, what size to get? Haven't made up my mind yet either.

 

[canoetrpr]

You are right StrangeRanger. You did push me over the edge! I'm going to get some orders in to surpluscenter for a 4 spool Prince valve and to CCM so that I can have this ready in time to use my new box blade in the spring.

Need to make sure on the right size though!

 

[StrangeRanger]

Do you know what valve you're going to order? I know extra rear remotes would be handy, but I don't if/when I'd ever have the need for them. I was thinking of ordering the valve assy from CCM as well. But I'm open to suggestions.

I was thinking it would simply be easier to buy the valve, cylinders and hoses (from the valve to the cylinders) from CCM and not have to bother w/ ordering the right hose fittings and all the that nonsense. But I'd like to hear what you're doing.

I'm gonna take some measurements tonight and make up my mind.

Thanks,
j

 

[canoetrpr]

StrangeRanger. My suggestion is that you might as well add more spools while you are at it.

I am going to use this Prince SV stack valve form surpluscenter. The work sections I will order will be SVW1BA1 - spring centered for DA cylinders. This valve has a nice small footprint and many many others here have used it successfully.

I plan on sourcing hydraulic fittings and hoses from a local hydraulic shop. I'll take the valve right to them along with the current hose that goes from the loader's PB port to the hydraulic block's PB input so that they can help me figure out exactly what fittings I need and can build me some custom hoses with the right fittings instead of going with hoses with generic NTP fittings and then having to get fittings to adapt to the remove valve, loader valve etc.

Mounting is an issue. I plan to either mount on a fender using an appropriately sized piece of steel to bolt the valve onto, bolted on to the fender, or having a local welding shop build an L shaped mounting bracket for me that I can bolt onto the ROPS with a couple U bolts.

The most convenient setup would be to go with Kubota's so called 'factory' setup - which is not much of a factory setup at all for the L3400. This is the same valve used on the B series and is not much different from the Prince valve. The mount they provide is nice and clean - BUT - the valve is about 3 x more than the Prince valve. The problem is the additional sections. They are over $250 each for the Kubota valve and $56 for the Prince valve. I figure I can get a 4 spool Prince, + top + tilt + hoses + locally made mount for the same or less price as the Kubota valve kit (4 spool valve+hoses+mount) with no top and tilt cylinders.

 

[StrangeRanger]

I considered the Prince valve too, but ****, ordering the stuff is confusing. Your link didn't really go to a product, so I assume you're talking about their part # series "9SV" (see pdf attached).
If you look at the .pdf and wanted say a 4 spool valve w/ power beyond, double acting, center detent set up I think you'd need:
9SV-4-Y-BBBB
Again, if I'm doing this right that should be $319.50. Does that make sense to you?
Then you need:
- a hose to go from the PB out port on the FEL valve assembly to the new valve set up
- a hose to go from the new valve PB outlet back to the hydraulic block PB in
- and 4 hoses to go from the new valve to the top n tilt cylinders
That all sound right?

**EDIT** I also just realized that part number calls out a PARALLEL valve set up. The series spool types cost about another $45 ea spool. Would you need this for any of your applications to use more than 1 spool at a time?

 

[canoetrpr]

Thats odd. When I follow my link it takes me a page for 9SV-4-Y.

Item# 9SV-4-Y
4 SPOOL SV VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND

By default if you order that you get:
Includes: * POWER BEYOND OUTLET SECTION $ 32.00
* SAE8 RELIEF INLET SECTION $ 37.50
* 4 SECTION TIE ROD KIT $ .00

Then you have to pick the worksections, for which I was planning to pick 4 SVW1BA1 which are (DA CYL SPOOL SPRING CENTERED) $56 each.

That comes to a grand total of $293.50 for me.

When I proceed to checkout this is what it picks for me:

4 SPOOL SV VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND
Item# 9SV-4-Y
Components:
- SVW1BA1 (DA CYL SPOOL SPRING CENTERED) #PSV B SECTION
- SVW1BA1 (DA CYL SPOOL SPRING CENTERED) #PSV B SECTION
- SVW1BA1 (DA CYL SPOOL SPRING CENTERED) #PSV B SECTION
- SVW1BA1 (DA CYL SPOOL SPRING CENTERED) #PSV B SECTION
- POWER BEYOND OUTLET SECTION #SVE22
- SAE8 RELIEF INLET SECTION #SVI15
- 4 SECTION TIE ROD KIT #660401004 $293.50

You are right on the hoses. You need one more to go from the OUT of the valve back to the TANK of your tractor - either by teeing the TANK port on the hydraulic block on the tractor or by going to the the tank at the rear with the Kubota part that replaces the red cap with an attachment for a hose.

I imagine that with some forethought you can source the hoses online but I figure I'd rather pay a bit more and get to know a local hydraulic shop anyway.

 

[canoetrpr]

StrangeRanger, you are right on it is 9SV-4-Y-BBBB.

Looks like the prices are slightly different between the website and the pdf page you posted... which is why are calculations are different.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Huh, your second link worked fine that time. Save a couple bucks ordering online I guess.

What about my second point, parallel vs. series, will you ever need the ability to operate more than one at a time? What type of implements might you use that for?

Or what about getting some "motor valves" instead of DA so you could operate some equipment w/ constant power? Like what if you ever rent a york power rake or something, aren't those hydraulically driven?

 

[canoetrpr]

StrangeRanger - I'm pretty hydaulically challenged myself so I'm sticking to exactly what has worked well for MadRef and others . I don't really think I will need spools working together.

My plans are for two spools to be dedicated to TnT. The other two I will keep open. The only targeted use I have in mind for them is a hydraulic chute and deflector for my snow blower.

I have a manual crank blower right now and my implement dealer suggested that if I want hydraulics I might as well just trade up to one with hydraulics. I expect that he will give me a reasonable trade on it as he can barely keep enough blowers on his lot come winter time. Plus if I were to put money into my blower I think I will move up to a 6ft one so that I can reuse it on my next tractor which is bound to be wider than 68" (don't tell my wife I'm already thinking about that!).

That said, chances are I'll just stick with the manual crank blower anyway and my extra spools might just sit there unused.... but figured I might as well add them while I'm doing the job as they are going to only be an additional $110.

No motor valves use in my future either.. but you could consider it.