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They are not structural on any trailer that I've ever seen or built. It's possible that someone could build a trailer that utilized the fenders in a structural capacity, but that would be a non-standard build. If they are moving around and gaps are opening and closing when you load your tractor...

An excellent point, one of two (the other being physical fitness) that are far too often overlooked by many self proclaimed "preppers".

I live fully off the grid. Solar power, with occasional generator use to run heavier draw items or to charge the batteries in the winter. DC freezers and fridge. Wood heat. Several years worth of canned food. Propane and wood cook stoves.

It's not hard to get around. I'll say again, Linux OS w/ Firefox browser and Ublock. I've never seen an ad on this site, small or large.

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=lm&q=V2203+oil+filter&ia=web

Could you post a link to an article or news story detailing where this was an issue? I haven't been able to find any. Usually when a particular action is very dangerous, it's not hard to find a story about someone being injured or killed because of that action.

Most gas fires that are caused by static electricity happen because the person fueling got in and out of their vehicle during fueling, creating static between their clothing and the seat. I didn't spend a ton of time looking but I didn't find any that were caused by sliding fuel cans around in a...

Find someone with a sawmill who will sell you locust lumber and replace the deck with that. No treatment needed. There's nothing like it, treated or not.

If in doubt, choose a lower gear. A general guideline for such things is to use the same gear going down as you would pulling the same load up the hill.

Not if you use a decent size grinder. I'm not talking about the little toy grinders they rent out at Home Depot.

Neither a backhoe attachment nor a stump bucket are good options for any but very small stumps. Better off renting a stump grinder.

A leaf blower works well to get some air flow going to a fire.

Start a fire with dry wood, then put the wet wood on it once it's burning well and has a good bed of coals.

The only prerequisite to being a "fellow tractor owner" is the ability to pay for one. It has nothing to do with a person's competence or knowledge of gun safety or ballistics. Good to know that you aren't shooting up in the air. As someone who took down hazardous trees for a living for a couple...

Ever heard the phrase "what goes up, must come down"? Those bullets are coming down somewhere. Couple years ago, back where I used to live in Ohio, a guy fired his muzzleloader into the air to clear it and killed a kid a mile or so away.

FWIW, if you're building a detachable winch mount, there's nothing necessarily that says it has to use a receiver tube. Obviously that's popular, but that's because receiver hitches are common. Those of us with fabricating skills are not limited by such things. We can built a lower profile...

How big is the trailer and winch? What might you be pulling with the winch? Makes a difference in how sturdy this needs to be. My first thought though is that I would use tube, not channel. Tube of roughly similar dimensions is going to be significantly stronger than channel. Might be tough...

Agreed. Just giving him the benefit of the doubt. To be fair, there are folks on here occasionally who ask about lawn tractors and ATV's. I have a little trailer that I tow my four wheeler or dirt bike on that weighs considerably less than 800 lbs loaded. You're entirely right though. When...

He wasn't really "wrong" per se, he just made a sort of incomplete statement. He's correct..... if the whole trailer with load weighs like 800 lbs. or less. Most of the time, when I'm towing a trailer, I have a lot more tongue weight than the weight of the entire load that he'd be referring to.

Sure seems that way. I'm not enough of a computer geek to know which is the deciding factor, but I do know that with Linux Mint OS, running Firefox browser with UBlock ad blocker, I see no ads whatsoever on any forum.

Must be a Chrome thing. Now that you mention it, there is a white strip along the right edge of my screen. Never really paid attention to it before.

Again, there's no use pushing it back without fixing the broken weld.

The weight a pickup can safely take on the hitch is significantly less than what it can take evenly distributed or centered in the bed. That's a big part of the reason that gooseneck trailers can haul so much more than tag trailers.

True. The principle still applies though. Even if the trailer is at or lighter than the rated capacity of the tow vehicle (unlike the one in that photo), too much tongue weight can cause big problems.

That depends. Too much tongue weight can cause the same kinds of problems as too little, with lack of steering also thrown into the mix. Here's an example I saw parked at Home Depot a while back. Toyota Tundra with a tandem dually trailer with concrete perma column posts loaded at the very front...

That is correct. Those maples may last for a while, but they'll never be strong. Red maples are kind of weed trees anyway. They're weak, but can live a long time while rotting and falling apart. You'd be better off thinning them out considerably and letting your pines fill in.

(y) I just saw the OP's picture after my post above. With the tops broken out like that he'd be better off just taking the broken ones down.

I was an arborist for 20 years. That is called a throw line and there are several options available. The line is somewhat stiffer and slicker than paracord and is available in a variety of diameters. The weight is usually an 8-16 oz cordura bag with lead shot in it, although there are also hard...

We used to joke that the way to increase the load capacity on a dump truck was to cut the mud flaps shorter so they wouldn't drag. Seems like changing the headlight angle due to an overload makes about the same amount of sense.

Or they could just not overload/improperly load the truck/trailer.

If your headlights were pointed up because of tongue weight you had way too much tongue weight. That either means that you had the load too far forward or the load was too heavy for the pickup. The further back the axles are, the more stable the trailer and the more leeway you have in where the...

Might not be. No real way to tell for sure.

If he ran the engine after the oil change or if he put oil in the filter during the change, then the incorrect oil is in the filter. If neither of those things occurred, then the filter probably doesn't need to be changed.

Plenty of homeschooled kids finish high school early and plenty of others start college before they're done with high school. My 9 year old is reading and doing math at a 5th-6th grade level and spends less time doing school work than many of the public school kids in the area spend on the bus...

You could replace every moving part in your pickup with new and not come close to the cost of a new one. I'd keep driving the one you have.

You're saying that the foam blew out from underneath the ridge cap? If it did, you either had an inferior product or a poorly installed one. If the vent foam is installed correctly, pinched between the ridge cap and the roof, the ridge cap would have to blow off in order for the foam to blow away.

Depends on the tractor, your competence level and the terrain. If the tractor is shuttle shift and the conditions allow, you can reach back and put it in gear. Obviously this requires that you are physically capable of reaching the shifter. I used to do that with my Kubota L35 regularly. Some...

Are you concerned about this from the perspective of a ticket from the DOT, or from the capabilities of your truck? I assure you that what you're describing is well within what your pickup can handle. The safe payload rating of most 3/4 ton pickups is extremely conservative. The diesel Ford...

Seen what blow off?

If the GVW of the truck is 10,000 and the GVW of the trailer is 14,000, that's 24,000....... under CDL. Or is that not what you meant by "overweight"?

I do tow a lot and you are correct. Only thing that may be off is the weight of the truck itself. They're often heavier than what the manual would indicate. What you refer to as "pin" weight is normally referred to as "tongue" weight, as in the "tongue" of the trailer. In actual practice, you...

That's the way to do it. I've seen where folks just welded them to the blade in back and ended up twisting things.

Are you wondering how to mount it or asking if it's worth doing?

It won't cause rust if it's only in there for a few months. Won't be any wetter than if it had snow on it all winter.

The lift rating is the total vertical height of the pump above the top of the liquid it's pumping. Pumps can push a lot further than they can pull.

You'll want to keep a close eye on the situation. If the conditions are right, you have the potential to get more moisture from condensation than from the blown in snow.

That varies widely by the product, which is part of why I recommended the specific one that I did. I've installed that in below freezing temps. How much ridge do you need to fix? Is it just one straight run?

I'm curious what's going on with your roof that's preventing him from getting on the roof? I've never seen a 6/12 pitch metal roof where the snow would stay on. Even if you've got snow brakes on it the ridge should be clear after a couple days without snow. I was just on a clients roof a couple...

Doing what I suggested has nothing to do with removing the tank. It's also quite easy to simply hook the furnace back up when you're done. There is a possibility of a small amount of fuel spillage, though with a few precautions that can be easily mitigated. If that's just not of interest, be...

It's similar in some ways, but is not the same. I've used both types extensively, as well as half a dozen others.

Is there a reason you're trying to run the pump outside? There should be a valve at the base of the tank where the line goes to the furnace. Turn that valve off, remove the line and connect the hose from your pump. Should take just a couple pipe and/or barbed fittings. Turn valve back on and...

If the contractor used a closure product that didn't have an adhesive backing (or a poorly designed adhesive backing) it's easy for it to get installed improperly and get blown out later. I would recommend replacing it with something like this. Universal Ridge Vent Foam by Everlast Roofing You'd...

That's going to vary depending on exactly what backhoe you have, what bucket it has on it, what attachment you have on the loader, etc. etc. Most tractors with a backhoe mounted have a balance point somewhere between the rear pivot pins for the loader and the back of the seat. Rarely is there...

How much have you used a $600 impact wrench?

How many miles did your Toyota truck have on it? The Roxor is a body on frame truck. Solid axles, manual transmission, manual transfer case, diesel engine. It makes perfect sense that it would last longer than a UTV. Trucks like that generally do. While I would like to, I doubt I'll ever own...

There are a number of states where ATV's and SxS's are street legal on county roads. In practice, in many of those cases, they get a pass on rural state roads as well. There are a lot of folks in my county, some right in town, who don't own a "street legal" vehicle. They just use a SxS. Some put...

I have no personal experience with the Roxor's, but it makes sense that they'd last longer than a UTV. The Roxor is essentially a Jeep CJ with a diesel engine and Dana 44 axles. Most (perhaps all) UTV's are thin tube frame buggy's with over size, high revving ATV engines. The Roxor obviously...

Interesting. What state is that?

Hopefully get there at least. We have had all kinds of problems with Fedex. I once had a Fedex driver leave two of my packages two miles from my house in the brush next to a gate to a logging road. Literally not a house in sight of where he left it. Luckily a buddy of mine was riding his four...

That may change things some. If you're spending a bunch of time picking rocks, beating up your machine, etc. I would question if your machine is really built for such conditions.

This one. I can't think of anything a 14 HP machine can do that's worth $200/hr. Certainly not rototilling.

With tongue weight, you'd probably technically not be overloading the axles. You'd certainly be on the edge though. As far as the ramps, we have no way of knowing without more information. What size and shape of steel? Tube? Channel? How long are they? How are they constructed. It makes a big...

It's not primed because there's no reason for it to be. The part that's in the wall will never see weather if the window is installed properly. That said, it won't harm anything if you prime it.

Most forks have the same mount. The hooks are 16 inches apart. There are some larger forklift forks that are different but it's very unlikely that that is what you're seeing on Ebay. Based on the dimensions that they do give in the add you posted, I would be very confident that those are the...

You mention using both 3/4" plywood and 3/4" OSB for sheeting. Why such thick material and why two different kinds? Any chance that was material you already had on site? Maybe had some moisture in it?

No. The front "axle" (con gear) isn't part of the rear trailer any more than the truck is part of the first trailer. But I see where the confusion could arise.

Semi trailers can't be disconnected from the tow vehicle and hold up all of their weight on the wheels alone. They also don't have a tongue that steers a front axle. Those are the defining characteristics of a wagon.

That's helpful, of course, especially while learning. It's not entirely necessary though. I've backed up wagons with a pickup. Watching the front wheels tells you the same thing that the tongue does, it's just not as dramatic.

Still a bit tough to tell for sure, but it appears as if you've got some cracks in the welds holding at least the square tube in place. Bending it back is just going to crack the weld more. If I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, it will need to be re-welded after being straightened.

Gonna be nearly impossible for us to either; one, tell exactly how to fix it based on pictures and two, relay that to you via the written word. But, just to put in my two cents, it does not appear to me that the square tube or round tube are actually bent. It looks like they're pulling out of...

Should be able to do that with a couple fit guys. I'd have a friend come over, do the install and put the tire back on.

My question too. If this machine is being operated regularly by (presumably) volunteers who do things like put diesel in a gas engine, one might wonder what else these volunteers are doing (or not doing). Probably a safe bet that the oil isn't being checked as regularly as it should be, or that...

So, unless you have a CDL, the truck is limited to under 12K GVW. Many newer dually's are higher than that, but as long as you stay away from those, you should be fine.

What's the GVW of the trailer? Add that to the GVW of whatever trucks you're looking at. If the number is higher than 26,000, you need a CDL to tow it legally. Which means, if you don't have a CDL, you can legally tow a larger trailer with a 2500 than with a 3500.

Yup. Plus, when that happens, the load is dynamic, not static, meaning things are under even more strain.

As is the case with many things, not all screws are created equal. I have seen screws like what you've described. I've also seen ones that had failing washers after 3-4 years.

Oh I've got the forks. Built those too. I wanted the extra height and security. (y)

Now that you mention it, I don't think I've ever backed a hay or gravity wagon with a tractor younger than I am. I'm in my 40's ;)

It's not a trailer. It's a wagon. Two different things.

It can. Best way is to build a mount for it. Personally, I'd build one that had a receiver hitch underneath it. This, of course, requires that you have steel fabrication tools and skills. Given that you're asking this question, I'm going to assume that you don't, which leaves hiring it done...

I'll just generally back up what @ponytug said. Only thing I would add is that, in most cases, metal roof fasteners of all types are supposed to have at least 5/8" of purchase in wood. If the roof was sheeted with 7/16" or 1/2" material, additional purlins or sheeting will be needed. Personally...

I don't own one currently, but have used plenty of them. That's a wagon, BTW, not a trailer. Anyway, yes, lengthening the tongue can help by making steering adjustments have a less dramatic effect. Similar to backing a long trailer, the longer the distance from hitch to axle, the easier it is to...

The center of gravity of a tractor is not centered on the middle of the rear axle. It's above it. So, adding weight centered on the axle, which is already below the center of gravity, would, by definition, lower the center of gravity.

It helps keep the back end on the ground so that the tractor can't pivot on the front axle.

Nothing to do with being old. That's how it should be done.

I would be less concerned about which way the D rings are oriented than in getting them all bolted entirely to the trailer frame. Ideally, the "pivot/hinge" of the D rings should be perpendicular to the load being placed upon it.

Agreed. I just meant that if a person was only ever going to drill 1/4" and smaller holes, they could get by with a hammer drill if they had limited funds and wanted to go cheap. I haven't used a hammer drill in years. I use my DeWalt SDS Plus rotary hammer multiple times a week. Just drilled 40...

I'm not 100% following your whole description, but I will say, you should do whatever is necessary to be tying down to the frame of the trailer. Don't bolt tie downs to the deck.

I'll join the group praising SDS drills. It may not sound like it from the names but there is a massive difference between a "hammer drill" and a rotary hammer. I wouldn't mess with a hammer drill for anything over 1/4", unless I was 100% sure that that was the last hole I'd ever drill in concrete.

That's probably the biggest issue. If you could take care of the drainage problem, a lot of the frost heave would go away.

Nice to not have them there at all though, if you don't want to look at them.

Exactly. With a decent stump grinder, it's be more like 5-20 minutes per stump.

Depends on soil type and your aptitude for such things. Both are huge variables. That said, a rental mini small enough to tow with a 3/4 or one ton pickup is definitely not the right tool to be pulling 24 inch stumps, unless the roots are already rotted. Consider renting a big stump grinder or...

It's possible that his plumber either lied to him or that there was some miscommunication. It happens.

As frustrating as that may have been, I'm betting that even the doofus inspector didn't ask who installed the trailer brakes. ;)

FWIW, I just checked through the installation instructions for 8 different randomly selected gas water heaters at Home Depot. Only one required an electrical connection.

Same. I've installed maybe half a dozen or so tanked gas water heaters. None had electrical connections. There may be some that do, but it's definitely not all of them.

FWIW, our tankless propane water heater doesn't require any grid power. It uses C batteries to make the spark. It's not rated for indoor use, but for folks who aren't constrained by the need/desire to do things conventionally, it works great. All the hot water we could ever want for $160. L5...

There you go. So much better than guessing. (y)

What might happen? The law does not specify who can legally install brakes on a trailer. Do you really think a court is going to have a problem with someone installing brakes on a trailer that didn't have them?

I'm not advocating violating the law. In all of the states where I've had trailers registered(three of them, including VA), the only information that the state wants about small trailers is the empty weight and the color. That's it. They don't ask about or check for brakes and they certainly...

What gave you the idea that they going to pay any attention to that? When did they start inspecting brakes or even checking to see if brakes existed, on little single axle trailers? There is no validation by authorities for that sort of thing. They don't check.

Again, you don't need to have the manufacturer do that. You can, if you can find one that'll do it, but it's very easy to do yourself.

I live off grid and don't have power to our tankless heater at all. It uses a two C batteries for the spark to light the propane. Works great. All the hot water we could ever use.

NPT stands for national pipe thread. The quick coupler is threaded onto the hose, either directly or with some sort of adapter, elbow, etc. in between. The description of that tool has a diagram with the dimensions of each size. Pick the one that matches your fittings the closest and you'll know...

There have been some pretty significant developments in the topic in that time.

If it was already fairly hard to begin with you should be fine. Just spread as you would normally. If you intend to run a compactor over it, wait till it's thawed to do that.

We have a landline at home as well, but mainly because there is no cell service in our area. I have a smart phone with no sim card in it. It's primary purpose is for OnX (a topo map navigation app), camera and browsing while on WiFi, none of which require it to actually work as a telephone. I...

Not asking about the red tractor. It appears as if the green tractor is being supported entirely by it's front wheels in the bucket of the red tractor. Figured it had to be something like that. I just can't see what it is.

I'm very confused by this picture. How is that lawn tractor not tipping backwards out of the bucket?

Tough to calculate precisely, and if you did, the calculation would change as soon as the machine started moving or you lifted the loader or the ballast on the three point. On the surface, you're just calculating the forces on a lever. Problem is, the forces in this case are distributed unevenly...

His vehicle has a towing capacity of 3500 lbs. Probably doesn't want to use up half of that before he puts a load on.

You are correct that boom lifts aren't designed to be used as cranes. That said, the rating is based on life support use. In general, life support gear is rated at 5% of breaking strength. Rigging gear is rated at 10%. That's for ropes, harnesses and the hardware that goes with them, but the...

Not sure how it works in your state. I've licensed over a dozen different trailers in three states and in all cases I told them what the GVW is. They don't check. Besides that, unless you have an obviously unsafe load, trailers that size don't get stopped and weighed.

Yes. Chains make a huge difference.

Also, I don't think you want the inside boom to be bearing on bolts. Should be bearing on a flat surface. What I'm going to do with mine to take up the slop is to make a bearing surface on the ends of the interior and exterior tubes to change the dimensions on the ends slightly. Basically just...

The name comes from what they're designed to lift, not how it's built.

I would definitely go QA mount. It's gonna be a lot less sloppy and more secure. I would also make the boom come up off the mount at a much steeper angle. Gives better lift angles, IMO. I've got the materials sitting outside to build mine, just haven't got around to it yet.

Why make it mount to pallet forks rather than direct? What are you intending to lift?

Most 3500 lb axles have the flange for brakes on them, even if it didn't come with brakes from the factory. You don't need the manufacturer to add brakes. If you have basic mechanical skills and auto electrical (as in, you're capable of changing oil and are familiar with righty tighty, lefty...

Assuming you have a machine that's actually capable of running either one. Hydraulic auger advantages: -Down pressure -Reverse -More precise speed control -Better maneuverability 3 point PTO auger advantages: -Less expensive

If moving the harness around sporadically fixes the issue, you almost definitely have either an abraded wire or a loose connection. It's a hassle but just following the wires from start to finish will usually reveal the issue.

You can use a piece of wood or steel about 3-4 feet long. Push the t-post away from the nubs, wedge the board in there and pull back. Repeat until the post is loose. Still not nearly as easy as a puller though. Not sure what "high dollar" means to you, but T post puller's that work great are...

More than likely, what you have will do fine. Use it for a while and then you'll know. They're both fine. Most folks find that it makes the most sense to stick with one brand so that you can use the same batteries in all your tools. I have Dewalt 20V tools and Milwaukee 12V tools and have used...

Can't help with your tire problem, but FYI, that's a tip from a deer's antler, not a tooth. It's not terribly unusual to get one in a tire, particularly this time of year, since this is when whitetails start dropping their antlers in much of the country.

Are you a a human?

Those are not intended to be used when the tank is full. Not strong enough. How often do you need to move it around? I have a 100 gallon tank and the only time it gets moved is when I take it in or out of the pickup when I fill it. If you have a need for it to be mobile and you don't want to...

Get rid of Chrome and switch to Brave browser. Until recently, when someone posted a similar thread, I didn't even know there were popup adds on this site.

That's not a project for a novice, IMO. Not that its complicated, but weld or design failure could cause some serious damage. Sounds like you should be looking for a plug and play option. Unfortunately I doubt that's gonna be cheap. If it's not urgent, and you've got the time, start developing...

OP, do you have fabrication capabilities or are you looking for a plug and play option? I can't help you with John Deere specific parts compatibility but I've converted half a dozen or so different tractors to SSQA (including one John Deere. Don't recall the model) and could help if you have...

You said that you were going to use batt insulation "between the rafters". Anyway, are you planning to put the batts between the top chords or bottom chords of the trusses? Ideally, the insulation should be between the bottom chords and then a vapor barrier should be installed under that before...

You mention rafters and then later in your post, trusses. Those are not the same thing. Do you know which one you have?

Their purpose is to allow airflow when there isn't enough due to the insulation pushing up against the bottom of the roof. So it depends how your roof and walls were designed and how much room there is between the top of the wall and the bottom of the roof deck. Airflow, ideally from eaves to...

Whoever told you that was incorrect. Capital letters are for the first letter in a sentence and for the first letter of proper nouns. You can change the font size if you can't see your posts. Somehow you seem to be able to make mine out. Welcome to the forum.

True. That would certainly be something that would need to be assessed on a case by case basis.

That depends on the machine. They're not all created equal. On mine, the cross bar is a 2"x3"x3/8 wall tube. I use it to change tires on my pickup. Wrap a chain around it and lift the entire front end of the truck off the ground. Lifting somewhere north of 4000 lbs.

I see. No way to say exactly how to build this without seeing interior framing, but either way, it should not be fastened on top of the siding.

You shouldn't be mounting things like that to the surface of the siding. The siding should come off, build the overhang and then siding put back on around it with the proper trim, J-channel etc. You use the term "metal building". Hard to tell from your picture. Does this structure have a metal...

I've built several what might be considered "tiny" houses. Not sure of the exact definition of that. Anyway, 4x10 is plenty of room for a bathroom. I'd probably even be including a closet in that space. Unless the plans are just for your own satisfaction, you really don't need anything beyond a...

That's what I did. I built one that's direct mount and about 3 feet higher than the mounting plate.

Do smaller discs like that have removable tongues? That thing looks like it's military surplus. Looks handy, but I'm sorta thinking that things like discs weren't what it was designed to move?

A 10-12 ft. disc is going to be longer than between the wheels on that though. Gotta be at least 9'-10' long with the tongue, probably more, I would think, no? I'm not sure I guess. I've never used a disc that small.

That appears to be designed to have the implement suspended between the wheels? If so, it doesn't seem like that'd work so great with something that's already 12 ft wide...... It say's "11' implement carrier". Pretty sure that's the length, not width.

In SE TN you should be able to get Black Locust without too much trouble. That would outlast PT lumber by a wide margin and be far stronger while it's at it.

You could build brackets similar to this. Also, FWIW, 2 inch thick concrete pads are almost guaranteed to crack. Better off building pads out of wood if they need to be mobile.

Most farm implements are a pin hitch, not pintle. Don't need anything special. Just unscrew the ball out of your regular hitch on your pickup and you're ready to go.

Would this be a towable disc? If so, hitch it up to your pickup and go. Make sure you have a slow moving vehicle sign on the disc. If it's 3 point, that might change things. What kind of trailer do you have? If it was me, I'd set up the trailer so that I can transport the disc on it. It'd hang...

Looks nice. Good to see the chains on it. Years ago, I was on a job where they were using a basket like that and the operator in the skid steer backed into a rafter and wiped the basket off the forks (they'd forgot to hook up the chains) with a guy in it. The whole thing came crashing down and...

I'm not familiar with the term "eyebrow" as it relates to a building, but I'm assuming you're talking about an overhang over the door? If that's correct, there's no reason that that would make the siding rust if it's installed correctly. Depending on the roof pitch and how far out you want to go...

For up to 4" material I like the Malco Eagle Grip clamps. Very smooth, grab and release easy and made in the US. At the moment they're backordered at my usual sources though...... The 8" version of that Bessey clamp looks handy.

That surprises me. I've never heard of a Mahindra that was made in Japan. The vast majority (up to now I thought all of them) in the US market are manufactured in India and assembled in the US. Where did you hear about Korean made Mahindras?

Check the caps lock button on your keyboard. Appears to be on.

The physics are the same regardless. Having two seats doesn't change the basic principle. Still don't know what your "side" is. My "side" is that, if a machine can pivot on the axle, it will tilt downhill or to it's heavy side. Do you disagree with the bolded sentence?

:unsure: I am so confused. What "side" are you talking about?

Correct. Shifting the center of gravity back towards center, by doing something like swinging the backhoe boom uphill or opposite the weight of an uneven load, helps to keep the machine upright.

Of course. On perfectly flat ground, with everything exactly centered, it doesn't matter. A shift in the center of gravity towards one side is what causes objects to tilt or tip.

No sir, your tractor is not an exception. No tractor will tilt towards the light or uphill side, ever. To do so would be to defy the law of gravity. If it appears to do so, it's because something in the weight distribution changed. The load on/in the bucket/forks is, of course, part of the...

My statement applies across the board. The tractor will tilt towards it's heavy or downhill side, whichever is a greater force, every time, without exception.

I'm not sure if you're disagreeing with me or what? If all the tractor's weight is on the front axle and the weight is not perfectly centered, it will tilt towards the heavier or downhill side. That isn't my opinion, that's a fact.

I didn't say that using the backhoe as a counterweight caused overloading, I said it made it easier to overload. Anything that makes a machine harder to tip makes it easier to overload it, obviously. I have no idea what you do or don't know.

It makes it easier to overload without pivoting as much. If you're on perfectly flat ground, with tires that are at exactly the same pressure, lifting a load that is perfectly centered and the rear of the tractor has the center of gravity exactly balanced between the wheels and the operator...

Using the backhoe outriggers can help to keep you from going all the way over. Obviously you won't be able to move with them all the way down and if you "hover" them a few inches off the ground, you run the risk of bending them if you hit a bump or hole. As has been pointed out, if you get to...

The blocks decrease the distance that the front axle can pivot, which allows him to more easily overload the front axle, loader, tires, wheels etc. with less risk of tipping. It significantly increases the chances of breaking something, since the "clue" of the rear getting light and the tractor...

You say you replaced "a" tire. Do you now have rear tires that are 3-4 inches different in diameter from each other?

Looks like it's homemade out of an old truck differential. It might work fine. If it does and the brush hog doesn't, it might not be a bad trade. Should be a drain and oil level plug on it. Pull the oil level plug and see if there's decent looking gear oil in there. if it is indeed a truck...

My experience has been the opposite. I'm a building contractor and work with kiln dried framing lumber daily. For my own projects, I only use lumber I cut myself. It's much better quality than what I can get locally. If I screw up a bit when milling the dimensions can vary some, but in many of...

That's correct. They are. Slide the fork to the middle where that slot is in the lower rail and lift it off. I've never seen forks that weren't removable. That would be a major design flaw if such a thing existed. Simplest way to put a receiver tube on that would be to off set it to one side of...

Yes, in most cases you would need to remove the forks. Some judicious grinding and/or grease on the rails that your forks slide on will make them less difficult to remove. Doing it the way I do would not work for someone with mobility and/or fitness issues. I use the receiver on mine regularly...

Weld it on so the front of the receiver is flush with the frame. The forks can just slide past it. Where exactly it goes is going to depend on the design of the frame and how much modification you want to do. A lot of them have a support in the center. Often, that support can be cut and the...

I'm sure that you can get an actual drawbar for that tractor, rather than the 3 point version. I'd be surprised if it doesn't already have one. Have you looked underneath to check? Sometimes they'll be slid in and pinned out of the way. That'd be the safest option and would be fine for the loads...

A proper weld in the right application won't break. The steel around it should bend or break before the weld does. Be nice to see some pictures, but based on what I've seen on a lot of newer equipment, I'll bet the welds that broke on the OP's machine had almost no penetration.

100 miles is right down the road. ;) If that's the trailer you want, I say go get it. Trailers aren't something that's gonna require "dealer support" like some other piece of equipment might. Chances are high that you'll get it and never need to talk to the dealer again.

Feral cats are our biggest problem as well, and this is an area where we have a lot of predator options. Hawks, eagles, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, mink, black bears, lions, wolves, raccoons etc. We had a hawk get one of our chickens. When he came back for another our rooster, a big Rhode Island...

Coyotes would help clear them out. Somebody must be shooting them. 😆

Bolt the track down to concrete piers or to a concrete slab. That's gonna be a lot less expensive, easier and sturdier than a mobile home or truck frame. Either of those is still going to need some sort of base anyway and given their larger size, the base will need to be bigger than it would for...

Craigslist and (unfortunately) Facebook marketplace.

What is preventing you from leaving the mill where it is? Why do you need to carry it in and out of the barn? I would drill and pour concrete piers to set it on and leave it in place. Build a shed for the sawhead to reside in and protect the rest of the track from the weather with a couple...

Where does one find that info? Just did a little searching and the two sources I found, which don't necessarily look trustworthy to me, say that it's headquarters are in the US. Couldn't find who the owner was.

There are lots of buildings up here (I'm a contractor in North Idaho) that are built poorly or incorrectly for the region. Wind and snow load, roof pitch, roof size, building insulation level, building orientation, heat leakage etc. all factor in when picking the right product. Plenty of folks...

That'd be caused by incorrect installation or an incorrect product for the application. Doesn't mean all ice guards are at fault.

The ice doesn't just go off the edge of the roof and immediately drop straight down. It sort of curves as it slides off the edge of the roof. The idea is to get the gutter on the inside of that curve, like a surfer inside a big wave.

I'm talking about the metal roofing itself. It should extend past your eaves, over the gutters 1-3 inches. If it's closer to 3 inches, you may be able to lower the gutters enough for the snow and ice to go over top of them. If you lay a straight edge on the roof, over the gutters, you want to...

Certainly worthwhile. Just wanted to throw out the idea for the OP to consider. If a person plans to rely on a generator for such things, they should definitely do a few practice runs ahead of time to make sure it all works. I live off grid and do construction for many people who are also off...

Regarding the use of heat tape. In most parts of the country, the most likely reason for loss of grid power and therefore shutdown of heat tape, is snow or ice storms.... Just something to consider.

Something to consider regarding the use of heat tape. I misunderstood. I thought the concern was about roof collapse.

That's a whole different subject, of course. Anyway..... OP, how far does the metal on your roof extend past the eave and what is your roof pitch? If the metal extends a couple inches at least and if the pitch isn't too steep and/or the gutters too wide, you can get the snow to go out over the...

Generally that's just going to blow the fusible link/main fuse. Better than nothing though. I haven't read through the whole thread, but have trail cameras been suggested?

It's the way you access the forum. I use Linux Mint OS with Firefox browser with Ublock on my computer and Android OS with Brave browser on my phone. There are zero ads.

The recommendation of Morton Buildings and that of one of their sales reps isn't necessarily the same thing. No company like that worth it's salt is going to rely on snow sliding off of a roof to keep their buildings from collapsing. Too much risk of an unforeseen variable causing the snow to...

If a building is built correctly for the snow load in the region where it stands, the snow does not need to slide off. That said, many incorrectly or poorly built buildings are still standing because metal roofing and/or poor insulation prevents the snow from building up too much.

I have a phone with an Android OS using Brave browser. I get zero ads. Might give that a try.

You spent all day searching the forum, or searching for the problem? What diagnostic actions have you tried already?

Yup. I use Linux Mint OS and Firefox browser and didn't even know that there were ads on TBN. ;)

Test the battery and check the connections from battery to starter, alternator, fuse box, chassis and body.

Took this while out hunting a couple years ago. We've got a fair number of cedars like this in the region. Not near what there used to be, of course, but they're there.

So..... Not even remotely similar to the situation being discussed in this thread...... ;)

Depends, of course, on how low the batteries are. Most of the year we don't need to use the generator for charging as the solar panels keep up fine. This time of year though, until some time in April, generally, we'll have to run the generator for an hour to maybe 4 hours every couple days or...

Yes. And no one suggested removing the lower cord with the repair as it is now.

I drive a 25 year old pickup, have no intention of ever buying a new vehicle and have never paid anyone to do anything on a vehicle for me, so this is just idle curiosity. If you don't like the service at dealerships, why are you going there? Is it required to maintain a warranty or something?

I didn't see anyone suggest a two piece center column.