Okay. You've got hopefully only a hill to climb and not a mountain. Refresh my memory. Has this engine run anytime recently? if so how did it sound? Can you start it?
Yes, I drove it for about an hour last week. Everything works fine minus the clutch staying engaged. The hyd seem a little slow and weak to me but the fluid might as well be vanilla chocolate milk right now.
Item 1- I'd hold on to it for now as yo can work on it a lot and yet have major issues with the hydraulics yet that you might not know.
Since split is happening, and trans/rear axle seem fine, it only makes sense to us to at least prevent future issues. At least two years or so of future run time is what we're looking at. Reliable equipment surely beats a shovel, come-along and a wheelbarrow!!
Item 2- Split is doable, no issues there and can use Ebay resource the whole kit for about $200. throwout bearing, pressure plate, disk, aligning tool and a the pilot bearing.
On the way already
Item 3- $75 from anywhere.
Already have it
item 4- don't know how much NH sells it for but I'm sure replacement can be found . The rubber boot might be more difficult but a "witch's hat" that is used for vent pipe can be used , inverted and with some clamp.
Cable and gasket are a whopping $35 from NH. A 5 gal bucket over the shifters will suffice for the short time until new boots are bought
item 5- certainly doable and may be under $15 to do.
The alternator is what I'm most concerned about. It is a non-OEM replacement with different terminal markings than wiring diagram
item 6- if all is well you can do the overhaul around $60 now but ... I would not spent money on anything unless I could verify that the
shape of the gears and bushign and the input shaft is good. Tractor will not worth much if this one item is bad or can nor be salvaged. The price of of a hyd pump might be in excess of $1000 and that would change the calculation to proceed or not.
$45 for internal rebuild, $5-10 (I don't have it written down) for the shaft seal. If the mechanical guts are suspect then we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. Keep your fingers crossed
item 7- $25 and 45 minutes will correct the seal provided the piston and cylinder are not previously damaged due to neglect.
Again, keep your fingers crossed for no damage
item 8- Either thru NH or Auto store you can find a matching hose... maybe $20.
Already done
Item 9. Easy , anything almost fits if you take the old one to a auto store to match at $10.
Already done, belt L444
Item 10. TSC and their Mystick oil meets NH-134 and all you'll need with some Rotella would costs $60.
Again, already done
Item 11. That is a biggie and costly. if I were to do it I match some non oem new radiator that matched physically and has about the same flow and heat dissipation capability. will not be cheap, lucky if you can do it for $200.
I'm not crazy about the idea of replacement, my aunt is. Since there hasn't been any overheat issues I see no reason to replace. It has previously been repaired twice, cutting some cores out
Item 12- it will be expensive. $150-200 may be.
Again, my take is to start with the one or two that are really bad and do others as needed. Other family trust committee members think we've got endless pockets
So before I shell out some dough I'll make sure hyd pump is okay. Make sure hyd is working even if the tractor is not moving. once I establish that I start with the split. I then change the engine oil and hyd oil and run it for a while to see if I'd work on the head. at least I 'd throw money and lots of sweat equity in an sensible progression.
For sure! The tractor isn't in as bad of shape as it sounds, just needs some TLC. I am doing all the wrenching on it, and am not foreign to any of it. 12 years as an M1A1 tank technician in the Marines teaches you a lot. Since I'm doing the work, most decisions will be made by me
JC,