1946 farmall h will not start

[zp18]

Thanks for the tip man. it was just bugging me that all of a sudden it just stuck for no reason. but i got it. im eventually going to rewire the whole tractor because most of the 'insulation' on the thicker wires is all shredded. eventually im going to restore the whole thing. thanks for the info man.

 

[Clint S]

Glad you got it going and yes the 6 volt system pulls more amps so the correct size wire with EXCELLENT grounds and clean connections is a must

 

[flusher]

I'd rewire it for 12V negative ground.
When I tried to start the rebuilt engine on my 1951 MM BF tractor first time out of the shop, the 6V positive ground system (original configuration) would barely turn the engine. I changed to 12V negative ground and the same starter spins that 27 hp Hercules engine a lot faster and it starts instantly.

Good luck

 

[zp18]

yea im kinda contemplating weather i want to convert it to 12v or keep it 6v

and thanks

 

[Soundguy]

if it starts and charges on 6.. stay 6. just celan up all the onnections.

if the gen ever dies.. that is the time to get a alternator.

however it's hard to tuck a 10SI under the hood. I have seen it done.. but easier to use a CS130 or a small hitachi..

 

[zp18]

yea thats true. the wiring is pretty bad though, so im gonna atleast rewire it all at some point. and yea i know what you mean

 

[Clint S]

if it starts and charges on 6.. stay 6. just celan up all the onnections.

if the gen ever dies.. that is the time to get a alternator.

however it's hard to tuck a 10SI under the hood. I have seen it done.. but easier to use a CS130 or a small hitachi..

That's good advice, if it is not broke do not fix it. 6 volt was good enough for our grandads, but I agree with SG if a major component breaks then switch it. I just found an old 3 wire chevy alternator in the barn and fabbed it up 15 years ago with nothing to go on except a volt meter and it still works. Alternator sticks out the side a bit and Tractor spends 75% of it's time outside without an issue so far. I guess some day I will wire it up "correct" with a diode so I do not have to disconnect the battery each night, although that is a good idea anyway in my book anyway.

 

[Soundguy]

no reason to need to disconnect a 3 wire each night.

the #1 post is excite. simply do not wire it to the ignition or charge stud. instead, wire it to the headlamps.. start her up. blip the headlamps on for a seond and that will startt he alt charging.. then you can turn the lamps off.

#2 line still needs to be hooked to the charge stud though.

 

[zp18]

i know what you mean about if it aint broke dont fix it . and yea, it did and still does what its supposed to do

 

[Clint S]

no reason to need to disconnect a 3 wire each night.

the #1 post is excite. simply do not wire it to the ignition or charge stud. instead, wire it to the headlamps.. start her up. blip the headlamps on for a seond and that will startt he alt charging.. then you can turn the lamps off.

#2 line still needs to be hooked to the charge stud though.

I have a keyed battery disconnect so I just remove the key to keep unwanted borrowers away. My luck I would forget to blip the lights. ;o). I have just never bothered to fix it. A $1.50 1n4001 diode would fix it too. Like ZP I am planning a rewire this winter I think. Installing a volt and temp gauge as well as new lights since I blew all the 6 volt ones when I did the conversion