kennyd
Advertiser
I can't answer that 100%, but it should. Zip ties are a lot cheaper though. Did you get the diverter kit so you don't have to unplug the loader lines?
2520 62d mower lift arms drag
- Thread starter Kep
- Start date
I can't answer that 100%, but it should. Zip ties are a lot cheaper though. Did you get the diverter kit so you don't have to unplug the loader lines?
pkav32
Bronze Member
Thanks guys! I have never thought that was all the lock up kit was. I also thought that it was much more than that for $175+. Zip ties ! I have a S##t load of Zip ties!
Well, I decided to NOT add the independent lift. There really is no reason to unless you will be adding a rear bagged.
As started above, if you will be using a box scraper or rake, just take off the rear mower linkage. It takes less than 2 minutes.
As started above, if you will be using a box scraper or rake, just take off the rear mower linkage. It takes less than 2 minutes.
revitupfaster
Silver Member
Yep.....the lock up kit will hold up the mower deck arms and it's a lot cheaper than the independent lift kit. I don't use mine to control the cutting height as Kenny does, as so far I haven't had any problem with the rockshaft lever stop, but it is at least another use for the kit if you want to go that way.
The only time I use the lockup chains is in the winter when I have my front blade on with the ballast box and I don't want the mower lift arms dangling below the tractor.
I'm with Kenny.....in reality, I see very little uses for the independent lift kit. Not a lot of bang for the buck IMHO.
REV
I have the turn buckle kit and still had to use a ratchet strap in the woods because I broke the bar that goes from Arm To Arm. The Kit does nor keep the arms suspended high enough for nasty deep woods log retrieving.
I vote for zip ties because the repairs cost more than the kit and The time involved to remove them and replace them constantly would not be pleasant.
I vote for zip ties because the repairs cost more than the kit and The time involved to remove them and replace them constantly would not be pleasant.
goldenwings
Member
This is a brilliant cure for me being lazy. I will tell you that the bar that connects the two lift linkages together is fairly easy to bend and much harder to bend back to straight... especially by the 3rd or 4th time. The pieces that the pins slide in, at the back of the tractor, that are part of the threaded rod are also very expensive... I have however gotten pretty good at making them as I've done 4 of them now (they bend so badly they can not be re-straitened). After all of this, I now just take the ****** arms off the machine for 3pt work, as others have said it only takes a few minutes, and will save hours of fabrication work.
I have thought of this but the ring in the left side is so bent and I can not remove it I have left it on ( surely it won't come off now? ). This was last fall and haven't messed with it yet. Now it's time for unfinished jobs.
megaboz
Platinum Member
I am trying to buy a 2520 now, but after reading the posts for the mower and the 2520, I am thinking that my Kubota is not as bad as I thought it was.
My Kubota used the 3pt lifting mechanism to lift and lower the mower deck, but it doesn't actually use the 3 pt in the rear, and it does have a separate cut height so you can leave the deck up all the way and still use the 3 pt.
Can someone answer me just how much ground clearance is left with the mower is deck installed? under the axles? How high can you raise the mower deck?
My Kubota used the 3pt lifting mechanism to lift and lower the mower deck, but it doesn't actually use the 3 pt in the rear, and it does have a separate cut height so you can leave the deck up all the way and still use the 3 pt.
Can someone answer me just how much ground clearance is left with the mower is deck installed? under the axles? How high can you raise the mower deck?
revitupfaster
Silver Member
I haven't actually measured, but it's not all that much. Only about 5 or 6 inches max I'd say.
REV