3 Point Hitch Control Locking Knob
- Thread starter Oldtoad
- Start date
Citydude
Elite Member
The adjustment is the issue. Little tiny knob and you have to reef on it to stay in position. Cheesy design
ptsg
Super Member
You may need to adjust the frictions discs at the end of the 3 pt lever, where it pivots.
Peter 315 might be on to something.
Looked at the manual, not inclined to mess with the linkage.
How about a wedge next to the lever. Friction would hold the lever in place. Something easy to adjust, something that will stay in place.
Will check out the friction discs in the manual.
Thanks ptsg.
Looked at the manual, not inclined to mess with the linkage.
How about a wedge next to the lever. Friction would hold the lever in place. Something easy to adjust, something that will stay in place.
Will check out the friction discs in the manual.
Thanks ptsg.
There's a way to fix that.
Hold item 050 (Friction Nut) and loosen item 060 (Jamb Nut). Snug item 050 until you get the desired friction on the lever. Hold 050 and tighten 060 to prevent it from moving again. Check items 040 closely to make sure that they are not damaged and need replacing. The lever should be sandwiched between two of item 040. (See diagram)
The little thumbscrew was only meant to stop the lever at a particular depth, not hold the lever at the top. Sort of a faux draft control. If the lever isn't staying up, then the friction on it is set wrong. The depth stop would normally be used to prevent a turning plow from digging too deep, or a disk harrow from bottoming out, etc. It's just in the way if you're using scraping devices (box blade, grader blade, land shaver, etc.) unless you're doing a long flat driveway and just want to skim the crown. If you have any significant grade changes, you're gonna get the see-saw effect at the back wheels lifting the blade before you want, and digging in when the front wheels start uphill. These problems are why there's an operator in the seat (aside from the therapeutic tractor time, of course).
