3-Point Hitch 3 point hitch won't lift
- Thread starter sevans
- Start date
Thanks JC
I also went back and printed the hyd pump and piping pdf you sent eariler.
I'm going to have to study these docs more carefully but from what I can tell there is only the one filter?
Where is that long, very dirty, 'screen' in the link you sent that shows a before (dirty) and after (clean screen)? From the pic it looks like that screen is mounted on a blue plate.
I also went back and printed the hyd pump and piping pdf you sent eariler.
I'm going to have to study these docs more carefully but from what I can tell there is only the one filter?
Where is that long, very dirty, 'screen' in the link you sent that shows a before (dirty) and after (clean screen)? From the pic it looks like that screen is mounted on a blue plate.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
sevans said:
Seven,
Like I said before your 1710 does not have the inlet screen like my 1700 has. The location of inlet screen on my 1700 is where the suction piping is flange connected to the side of differential housing.
JC,
PS. the connection is shown in pic #040658.jpg that you posted earlier. You do not have a flange and instead you do have a banjo fitting n(or as you said "Hollow Nut"). If you choose , you can remove the banjo connection and get a suction hose in there to vacuu-suck the stuff with the help of a shop vac. I put a collection jar between shop vac and the point of connection to avoid getting the stuff in my shop vac.
GREAT! Thanks for your patience.
I'm certainy not ruling out an adjustment or other repair.
Just so I can't screw this up we're talking about the fitting similar to the one pictured below and circled in your eariler pdf? There should also be 2 o-rings to replace.
It looks like I might have about 3/4" to get a hose down inside, does that sound about right?
I'm certainy not ruling out an adjustment or other repair.
Just so I can't screw this up we're talking about the fitting similar to the one pictured below and circled in your eariler pdf? There should also be 2 o-rings to replace.
It looks like I might have about 3/4" to get a hose down inside, does that sound about right?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
sevans said:
Yes each Banjo fitting gets two o-rings one on each side of the groove. 3/4" or 5/8" garden hose should do the trick. Below you'll see the flanged connection on mine. I had to remove the flange to withdraw the inlet screen obviously after I took the banjo off. I had plenty of room to clean the inside, more than what you have. Additionally, I made a little hook using a piece of bailing wire and was able to catch a lot of stuff right from the bottom diffy housing drain plug. I was amazed
It was like cleaning a sanitary trap. 
Cleaned inlet screen that shows the flange.
My not yet patented Vacu-suck design.lol
If you need a patent attorney, I have a good one but they're really into more cutting edge biotechnology kind of inventions. Thanks for the great advice. I hope this is all it will take because 'adjusting' things is definately not my fortey.
Another question... to 'drain' the fluid do I need to drain from all 4 drain points, being 1 trans plug, 1 four-wheel drive plug, and 2 reduction drain plugs (whatever those are for)?
Thanks,
Another question... to 'drain' the fluid do I need to drain from all 4 drain points, being 1 trans plug, 1 four-wheel drive plug, and 2 reduction drain plugs (whatever those are for)?
Thanks,
JC-jetro
Elite Member
sevans said:
Yes. but usually front wheel drive and reduction drive are not part of the differential housing oil. The oil that you will use for front wheel is different and not part of hyd system. The hyd oil in diffy is used to lubricate both transmission and hyd lift system. On mine I had a plug for diffy and one for the transmission, since I have a rear wheel drive jobby.
JC,
JC<
my 1710 hydraulic filter looks like an regular engine oil filter 'cept a little bigger.
there is also a small box shaped manifold with a screw on it that can be turned to 2 positions. I don't have a FEL and I think that is what the second position is for but I've never used it (in 20 years!).
I got my manual from SSB. Its pretty good but it lacks the exploded diagrams that all the dealers seem to have and most seem willing to make copies of the diagrams you need.
I suggest you start with the easiest/cheapest solution and see if that fixes it.
If the hydraulic fluid is milky looking than it needs to be replaced. I replace the filter whenever I replace the fluid.
there is also a small box shaped manifold with a screw on it that can be turned to 2 positions. I don't have a FEL and I think that is what the second position is for but I've never used it (in 20 years!).
I got my manual from SSB. Its pretty good but it lacks the exploded diagrams that all the dealers seem to have and most seem willing to make copies of the diagrams you need.
I suggest you start with the easiest/cheapest solution and see if that fixes it.
If the hydraulic fluid is milky looking than it needs to be replaced. I replace the filter whenever I replace the fluid.
Gentlemen...
From pg 93 of the repair manual (thanks again JC) "The tramission housing and rear axel housing serve as a common oil reserve for the hydraulic system."
There are 4 drain plugs as previously detailed. I drained the transmission first since it was the main body of reserve. Then I moved to both reduction drain plugs which is where I ran into something strange. The reduction reserve (and drain plugs) are situated at a lower level than the tranmission reserve so I expected to get at least a quart of oil from each side; I got nothing! Assuming my intuition was wrong I moved to the four-wheel drive drain plug and got another 1-2 gallons of oil.
I then disconnected the rigid tube (outlet I think) to the tranmission housing and used JC's niffty suction device. I DID NOT get anything that resembled "snot" but rather only a few tablespoons of oil with an acceptable amount of sediment (not metalic).
I revisited the reduction drain plugs because I was sure that there ought to be oil remaining in the lower levels. I followed JC's advice and stuck a piece of wire up into each drain hole and after a bit of wiggleing oil started to drain. Each reduction drain hole yielded about a quart of oil after I cleared the path.
So now what do I do???
I think I've drained the entire system (tranny and rear axel - not the front axel) with about 7-8 gallons. The operators manual says 27.5 quarts (6.875 gallons) but I'm not sure that includes the four wheel drive drain. By draining the four wheel drive I may have drained the front axel (another gallon or so).
Again... what do I do now? The system is drained, sucked, and a new filter installed. Is there anything I ought to do before refilling the system? I'd hate to have to redrain the system to do something else that could be done now.
Thanks
From pg 93 of the repair manual (thanks again JC) "The tramission housing and rear axel housing serve as a common oil reserve for the hydraulic system."
There are 4 drain plugs as previously detailed. I drained the transmission first since it was the main body of reserve. Then I moved to both reduction drain plugs which is where I ran into something strange. The reduction reserve (and drain plugs) are situated at a lower level than the tranmission reserve so I expected to get at least a quart of oil from each side; I got nothing! Assuming my intuition was wrong I moved to the four-wheel drive drain plug and got another 1-2 gallons of oil.
I then disconnected the rigid tube (outlet I think) to the tranmission housing and used JC's niffty suction device. I DID NOT get anything that resembled "snot" but rather only a few tablespoons of oil with an acceptable amount of sediment (not metalic).
I revisited the reduction drain plugs because I was sure that there ought to be oil remaining in the lower levels. I followed JC's advice and stuck a piece of wire up into each drain hole and after a bit of wiggleing oil started to drain. Each reduction drain hole yielded about a quart of oil after I cleared the path.
So now what do I do???
I think I've drained the entire system (tranny and rear axel - not the front axel) with about 7-8 gallons. The operators manual says 27.5 quarts (6.875 gallons) but I'm not sure that includes the four wheel drive drain. By draining the four wheel drive I may have drained the front axel (another gallon or so).
Again... what do I do now? The system is drained, sucked, and a new filter installed. Is there anything I ought to do before refilling the system? I'd hate to have to redrain the system to do something else that could be done now.
Thanks
JC-jetro
Elite Member
So far so good sevan.
Again as I explained earlier the front wheel drive is totally separate system and the oil in the front wheel drive is not shared the same sump as hyd system and transmission. Imagine the tractor is made of 3 major sections, Front, middle and rear. Front is the engine compartment with engine crankcase oil. The middle is the clutch system. For most part the clutch system is more of mechanical in nature although you can have hydraulically activated release bearing. for most tractors the oil in transmission and hyd lift system is the same and the common sump is the rear differential housing.
so again, there is no cross connection between front wheel drive oil and combination transmission/ hyd oil. I have rear wheel drive tractor so I can not tell you from top of my head what oil is used for front wheel reduction system bot I know it different than Ford 134 recommended for the rest. On the bottom of the reduction gear you do have a draine point as you identified , the fill is on top of front axle. I'd fill the diffy and the transmission housing from a plug that is on on top of transmission housing that has a dip stick. You do not need to tighten the dip stick to to check the oil level. Mine took about 5 gallons so I bought three 2 gallon jugs of Mystick SP?? oil from TSC that is equivalent to Ford 134. Overfilling is bad , so empty two of the jugs and the rest do it gradually and measure. Tractor need to be on level ground obviously. I just checked, my 1700 manual refer to Ford M1C-137-A fpr front wheel system. My manual calls for 2.5 qts for front axle differential and .23 qts for each side of final reduction gear case. we'll see where you are after this. Good luck.
JC,