3-Point Hitch 3 point hitch won't lift

[sevans]

Thanks,

Yes, the owners manual says different fluid for front versus transmission. Only thing I can think of is that the transmission was overfilled because I got nearly 8 gallons when I drained it. The manual says 27.5 quarts so it must have been overfilled by at least a gallon.

I don't have the owner's manual but will have today. From your pdf I found that the dip stick should not be screwed in to check the level.

I found another very minor leak on the rigid pipe shown below. The NH site had a detail of this section and it doesn't show an o-ring but only a "fitting assembly" but I'm pretty sure there ought to be an o-ring in there. I'm going to replace this o-ring, providing there is one, and the 2 on the outlet pipe I sucked the oil from. I'll let you know how it goes and thanks again for the help and all the great resources.

Then I may give the tractor a good bath!

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks,


I found another very minor leak on the rigid pipe shown below. The NH site had a detail of this section and it doesn't show an o-ring but only a "fitting assembly" but I'm pretty sure there ought to be an o-ring in there. I'm going to replace this o-ring, providing there is one, and the 2 on the outlet pipe I sucked the oil from. I'll let you know how it goes and thanks again for the help and all the great resources.

Then I may give the tractor a good bath!
View attachment 108414

Sevan,
The hyd elbow is JIC fitting where it is connected to the rear diffy housing. it is tapered, if it leaks there it might be a bit loose. The other side of the elbow is compression fitting and may or may not have an oring. I guess it does not have an oring and might have a ferrule or flared. Some may like to put Teflon tape on the threaded part but not all approve it as it might get in to hyd spool causing problem. Since this connection is pre-filter before any control valve I think it'll be okay. I will not go heavy on teflon and make sure wrap the threaded part counter clockwise and not leave anything loose hanging from the end. before any dis assembly I get a crescent or open end box wrench on the outer nut and tighten it a bit to see if that makes any difference.

JC,

 

[sevans]

After cleaning it up I found it is leaking from the connection to the rigid pipe and not where the fitting screws into the oil sump housing. Even as weathered as it is I believe I do see remanants of teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try tightening the pipe connection first.

Well... I put new hyd fluid in and replaced the filter but it did NOTchange the 3 pt lift problem.

I guess I'll start looking at the list of possible causes as shown on p. 95 of the repair manual posted eariler.

Thanks,

 

[JC-jetro]

After cleaning it up I found it is leaking from the connection to the rigid pipe and not where the fitting screws into the oil sump housing. Even as weathered as it is I believe I do see remanants of teflon tape on the fitting. I'll try tightening the pipe connection first.

Well... I put new hyd fluid in and replaced the filter but it did NOTchange the 3 pt lift problem.

I guess I'll start looking at the list of possible causes as shown on p. 95 of the repair manual posted eariler.

Thanks,

Need to establish flow first. If you do not hear grinding and cavitation noise pump is probably okay since you had leak under pressure (on the discharge side of the pump). The most likely scenario is Hyd cylinder piston seal. Not difficult at all in your tractor. re check the thread I made to replace mine, should have ample info and pics there to help.

JC,

 

[sevans]

It's a rainy day here is North Central Texas... I'll listen for noise but I sure don't remember hearing any. Great observation about the leak on the discharge side.

Are you referring to the 'lift cylinder' piston seal?

When I recieved the operator's manual I was suprised to find the IT FO-44 Shop Manual. I believe you have the same manual so the lift cylinder piston seal (#25 below) is shown on page 99 and attached here.

 

[JC-jetro]

It's a rainy day here is North Central Texas... I'll listen for noise but I sure don't remember hearing any. Great observation about the leak on the discharge side.

Are you referring to the 'lift cylinder' piston seal?

When I recieved the operator's manual I was suprised to find the IT FO-44 Shop Manual. I believe you have the same manual so the lift cylinder piston seal (#25 below) is shown on page 99 and attached here.

View attachment 108452

Yes. Yes, it is the seal. Take a note that part #'s on FO-44 may not be the same as NH site. The seal is right but it is actually numbered #19 on NH website rather than #25. Must use/buy the following. Take a look at the lip orientation on the seal, it is a one time deal, can not remove the new seal without damage to it if installed incorrectly.

19 1 SBA050309012 Seal Seal, Start Year: 01/01/1983

JC,


Old damaged seal:




New seal install:

 

[sevans]

YIKES! You said it isn't difficult...

It is done from the front side by removing the cylinder head but the lift arms and shaft must be romoved? Once the shaft is removed first then everything from #13 through #19 (NH numbers) ought to come out the front side, is this correct?

Thanks for the pics. It's difficult for me to envision the job from a figure in a book.

It looks like I'll need to replace about a dozen o-rings and a 'dealer-ordered' seal.

 

[JC-jetro]

YIKES! You said it isn't difficult...

It is done from the front side by removing the cylinder head but the lift arms and shaft must be romoved? Once the shaft is removed first then everything from #13 through #19 (NH numbers) ought to come out the front side, is this correct?

Thanks for the pics. It's difficult for me to envision the job from a figure in a book.

It looks like I'll need to replace about a dozen o-rings and a 'dealer-ordered' seal.

It ain't exactly a piece of cake you know... But if I can do it, I guarantee you lots of people can do it a swell.

yes, it is all done from front. That's pretty easy. the cylinder has two big o-ring (nothing you can find from HF oring set). I changed mine but really there was nothing wrong with them. I save the old one for spare.
You might need a few o-rings , buy Harbor freight metric set @ $10 and you're good to go.

JC,

Put the cylinder and head together and put it in as a whole assembly.

You can withdraw cyl head, cylinder and piston. Cylinder head is attached/sealed to the cylinder by way of big o-rings (two), just pull them apart, comes apart easy.

You see the ram rod that cuases rotational movement of rock shaft leading to 3-pt arm to raise. Hyd lift spool on the left side of the pic.

 

[sevans]

I can probably do this better than baking a cake.

From your pics there's no need to remove the lift arms so the job doesn't look too stressful.

I found the seal here locally for about $15 and they're holding one for me. The big o-rings don't look like anything my local ACE Hardware stocks so I'll pick them up from the NH dealer as well.

Habor freight metric set? Is that a set of o-rings or tools. If it's tools, I have a full compliment of metric wrenches and sockets (and breaker bars).

Again... the pics are fantastic and very much appreciated.

 

[JC-jetro]

I can probably do this better than baking a cake.

From your pics there's no need to remove the lift arms so the job doesn't look too stressful.

I found the seal here locally for about $15 and they're holding one for me. The big o-rings don't look like anything my local ACE Hardware stocks so I'll pick them up from the NH dealer as well.

Habor freight metric set? Is that a set of o-rings or tools. If it's tools, I have a full compliment of metric wrenches and sockets (and breaker bars).

Again... the pics are fantastic and very much appreciated.

No lift arm removal, big o-ring from NH ( doubt if you need to change them), HF metric set is referred to o-ring set, You'll find 90% of what you need from the set and at least 10 of them in each set. I bought 3 oring from NH costing more than a HF set.

You're welcome

Jc,