A few dumb chainsaw questions

[ultrarunner]

I just use my saws for clean-up and firewood around the homestead.

My Echo top handle limb saw is the one I keep in the truck... never failed and lightweight.

I injured my hand a few years back and had to give up on the big saws..

bought an easy start ms250 Stihl and liked it so much... I bought another for the cabin...

 

[xring100]

I like Xring's post. My MS210 is a bit low on power but I need a saw for cleanup, not firewood. I had a wild hair and got the MS310 which has enough power for my playing around. Xring has some sweet big boy saws.

Thanks, I forgot to add that i bought the 361 assuming it would be big enough for anything i would ever want but because it will handle a 25" bar then all of the ash tree's died in in lower michigan and for the last 6 years we've been cutting them up. We had a lot of Ash over 20" and a couple dozen at 25" or just over and 70-80 feet in height. The dead ash is at least 25% harder to cut than red oak and while the 361 would handle the 25" bar it was too slow and i didn't have the patience to wait. going up to a 460 at that point did not make sense to me as it was only 1.5 hp more than the 361.

If i were to do this all over again i probably would have bought a MS260/261 for the lower weight and a MS460/461

 

[RandyBell]

Drop down to an 18" bar, you can still cut through the larger ash trees and get a full chisel chain it will cut a lot better.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I am guessing the shorter bar will help with the kicking nature of a full chisel chain?

 

[TomSeller]

1. Yes, I believe pro saws are worth the money if you can swing the extra money
2. No, nothing special about maintaining them. Don't let any engine sit for a long time and every engine/saw needs regular maintenance
3. No experience with that grinder

I would suggest the MS261. Mine runs like a dream. I have a larger and a smaller Stihl, but the 261 is a good all around for me. I retired a MS026 just so I could buy the 261. Absolutely nothing wrong with the 026. So now it is the firewood saw.

 

[jeff9366]

I use a Stihl MS261 with a 16" bar, in Stihl's Professional line / $549.95. On the bar I run Stihl Rapid Super Comfort Chain (RS).

"Stihl Rapid Super is reduced vibration saw chain. A cutter and tie strap design reduces vibration level significantly while still utilizing the aggressive full chisel cutter design."

The is a knife-thrugh-butter cutting combination. I love it. Not for the tyro nor careless. The saw is very powerful and revs very fast. Stihl recommends, and I buy, 89 octane gas. The chain is NOT a safety chain, it does kickback.

It cuts in one third less time than the larger Husqvarna equipped with safety chain I used to use.

I do not recommend buying a heavier saw than you need. My Stihl is much less tiring to use than the larger Husqvarna and when you get tired and/or hot, your concentration is reduced and problems arise.

Do some research on chains as well as the power heads. What chain you choose will make a big difference.

I sharpen chain 2-4 times with a file, then I take it to Stihl shop for a $4 machine sharpening. I usually leave 2-3 chains at a time for Stihl sharpening. One or two more file sharpenings and chains are streched and finished. I do not run dull chains.

Pressing on a chainsaw with a dull chain is looking for trouble and it is hard on the engine.

Unless it is really hot, I wear Kevlar chaps. I always wear steel toe boots and safety glasses.

Know your limits and experience. SAFETY FIRST.

 

[RandyBell]

I am guessing the shorter bar will help with the kicking nature of a full chisel chain?

Experience handles the kick, shorter bar would help with the power issue, just because it will accept a larger bar doesn't mean it will do so efficiently!

 

[LD1]

Stihl is the best saw made, but the most expensive. Also get a big one, saves time and is nice. Some of the cheap ones work guite well, but you will buy several if you take that route. Also find a capble person to teach you how to sharpen with a file, saves time and trips! Good luck.

Thats just a stupid and pointless post from someone that would appear to be very uneducated when it comes to saws.

 

[LD1]

So, some dumb questions:

Now on to the real issues.

IMO, the pro saws are indeed worth it. They typically have a higher power to weight ratio than homeowner saws. So you either will get a lighter saw with equal power, or more power with the same weight.

The real issue is, you need to decide just how much firewood you will be cutting. Cause if you only need a saw to do cleanup, and busting some pallets, a cheap homeowner will last a lifetime. If you get into cutting 4+ cords of wood a year, I think you are going to want to step up the game and get a real saw. The Dolmar 420/421 is a good light saw, and in the ~400 price range. I would look at that or similar from other makes. Normally I am all for going big and getting a pro saw, but if I were you, dont spend a fortune. Get a small light trim saw. See how this winter goes. If you decide you want to cut firewood, then look for a 60cc pro saw. Then you have the perfect 2-saw plan.


As to parts 10 years + down the road....its hit and miss. you never know what is going to be available. But, for saws under 70cc, if you take care of em and dont straight gas em, by the time it needs a new piston, ring, and/or jug, it probably isnt worth rebuilding. A 20 year old saw in the 60cc range that runs is worth ~150-200 bucks. So why would you spend $300 to rebuild if there were parts available??

And if taken care of, the only thing you should need in 20 years is maintenance and wear items. Like air filter, fuel line and filter, bar and chain, sprocket, etc. And most of them parts are universal or fit more than one make/model.

So in a nutshell, dont worry about parts down the road IMO

 

[TomSeller]

I use a Stihl MS261 with a 16" bar, in Stihl's Professional line / $549.95. On the bar I run Stihl Rapid Super Comfort Chain (RS).
"Stihl Rapid Super is reduced vibration saw chain. A cutter and tie strap design reduces vibration level significantly while still utilizing the aggressive full chisel cutter design."
TThe is a knife-thrugh-butter cutting combination. I love it. Not for the tyro nor careless. The saw is very powerful and revs very fast. Stihl recommends, and I buy, 89 octane gas. The chain is NOT a safety chain, it does kickback.
It cuts in one third less time than the larger Husqvarna equipped with safety chain I used to use.
I do not recommend buying a heavier saw than you need. My Stihl is much less tiring to use than the larger Husqvarna and when you get tired and/or hot, your concentration is reduced and problems arise.
Do some research on chains as well as the power heads. What chain you choose will make a big difference.
I sharpen chain 2-4 times with a file, then I take it to Stihl shop for a $4 machine sharpening. I usually leave 2-3 chains at a time for Stihl sharpening. One or two more file sharpenings and chains are streched and finished. I do not run dull chains.
Pressing on a chainsaw with a dull chain is looking for trouble and it is hard on the engine.
Unless it is really hot, I wear Kevlar chaps. I always wear steel toe boots.
Know your limits and experience. SAFETY FIRST.

Super comfort chain on an anti vib MS261? I bet that is like a hot knife through butter ! Talk about smooth. Very good post. I have a heavier Stihl for the big stuff and an arborist Sthil for the small stuff. I then switch out saws during the day. You are correct in that a heavy saw can wear on you. Can you really get a Stihl dealer to sharpen a chain for $4 ? Wow.